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Old 04-23-2009, 06:53 AM   #496
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I ordered a Losi 8ight 2.0 race roller, Jr z9100 s&t servos, nova bf .21 limited edition / dynamite 086 pipe, receiver pack, ofna truggy box and battery, spare filters, glow plugs, yesterday with amain. I had the rtr version on back order but they pushed the date to may 25th and I couldnt wait any longer so I went with the roller instead. Im sure I will be better off anyway. I need some tips on my assembly process and break in procedures.
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:11 AM   #497
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I ordered a Losi 8ight 2.0 race roller, Jr z9100 s&t servos, nova bf .21 limited edition / dynamite 086 pipe, receiver pack, ofna truggy box and battery, spare filters, glow plugs, yesterday with amain. I had the rtr version on back order but they pushed the date to may 25th and I couldnt wait any longer so I went with the roller instead. Im sure I will be better off anyway. I need some tips on my assembly process and break in procedures.

The race roller comes pre-assembled. However I would rebuild the diffs and shocks to make sure that they are up to your standards.
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Old 04-24-2009, 11:38 AM   #498
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How would going from 2000 to 3000 in the rear diff affect handling? I'm running 5-5-2 now.
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Old 04-26-2009, 05:20 PM   #499
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Hello, I am still running the old Losi kit buggy when I prep it for a race its suspension is moving free. After a few minutes on a track it gets a little stiff and squeaks in the front and rear arms and steering linkages. Is there anything I can do to keep this from happening? Does this happen to anyone else? Also, I have been working on a setup for my local tracks. I got the buggy turning very well and it rotates nice while staying easy for me to drive. My only problem is it seems twitchy on-power and will spin out if im not careful. I think I need to move the front camber links from the "3" to the "2" position, making them longer. I figured I would ask you guys 1st. Thanks.
Nevermind... I put 3000wt in the rear diff and its alot better. As far as the squeaking goes I tore down and rebuild the buggy cleaning it and it still does it.
No biggie.
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Old 04-26-2009, 05:22 PM   #500
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How would going from 2000 to 3000 in the rear diff affect handling? I'm running 5-5-2 now.
I tried it today, Less aggressive turn in and lost a little steering in the center and exit which is what i needed.
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Old 05-20-2009, 11:52 AM   #501
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Integra- It's not a concern. When you have the shock boot and cup on the shaft the piston won't go up to far.

dcracing- If the steering and camber link ends are binding up you can pinch the ends a little with pliers and they will free up.

losi_racer- I would check the tank and fuel line.
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Old 05-20-2009, 12:04 PM   #502
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thx for the clarification Adam.
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:32 PM   #503
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Drake I am looking for some of the older setups for the older buggy. It is I of the first setups for the buggy? Please help ??
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Old 05-21-2009, 09:17 PM   #504
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i think the setups are still on losi web site if not here is what i remeber
1.0 set up

diffs 5-7-2
front shocks 54 piston on 40wt oil
rear shocks 55 pistons 32.5 oil or 56 on 30 oil
3 deg x 3 toe back plate
hubs all the way back in rear
inner on tower in front
inner lower on tower in rear and inner on rear hubs
droop 95mm front 106mm back
ride hieght 27mm front 29mm rear
bump steers down
long ackerman arm
-2 camber front and -1.5 camber back
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Old 05-22-2009, 01:01 AM   #505
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I seen those, I am looking for one of the first setups that was post for the first buggy when it came out. The guy that had it, had a weird last name started with a E?? The setup call for the other springs in the kit to be used
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:11 AM   #506
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Hi Adam, I have a couple questions for you:

1.) This past weekend I had a re-occuring problem, if I overshot the landing on a jump and landed hard the car would flame out. I checked the clutch springs, the tightened the tank lid, played with the idle and needle settings (even though the engine seemed to be running fine), I went over the entire fuel system etc.... Any ideas? The only thing that I noticied is that my chassis has alot of wear on it, and my spur gear is flush with the bottom of the car, the surface was very uneven and hard, might the spur have been bottoming out on the track surface with clutch engaged?

2.) My car wasn't jumping well and nosing over alot, Kevin Wilson suggested that I rebuild my shocks with full rebound. It improved my car dramatically over the jumps, how much rebound do you build into your shocks? Is it track depended, if so what do you look for in terms how you build your shocks for a given surface.

3.) I have spent alot of time trying to get my brakes to work consistently, at times they are good, and at times they are not. I also have noticed that at times the front disc actually binds up and sticks when testing the settings on the ground. What are the top things to do to maintain and set them for consistent operation?

Thx,
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:42 PM   #507
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Default Grp plant buring down

hey Adam what do you think about this man are you goin to start running losi engins or find a new sponcer ship
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:50 PM   #508
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Drake is running Novarossi for a while now. GRP is great, my Ninja BO1a is on its 9th gallon and still running strong. Hate to see them go down like this...
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:01 PM   #509
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Adam, I tried Mike Truhe's 2007 Nitro Challenge set-up w/ the TFT chassis, drilled 54 pistons in front, and bow-fighters. It is an amazing difference in how the buggy handles now. Other than how you build shocks, do you have any other tips for the 8ight competition kit. All your replies on this forum have been very helpful to me, even though I don't run the 2.0
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:10 PM   #510
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Hello adam I'm having a little issue with my losi 8ight 2.0 diving over jumps.When i throttle over the jumps its fine but i then over jump the down side.What would you recommend as far as tunning?
Thanks

And do you ever make your way to the east coast. If so stop by Hobbyhut LOL for a club race http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaZlcM09Ktg

Last edited by buggydad; 05-27-2009 at 07:21 PM.
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