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Old 02-19-2009, 06:05 AM   #421
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Originally Posted by mackyrocks View Post
Hey Adam,

What is the minimum that the diameter of the clutch can get before the clutch shoes need to be replaced? I saw it somewhere on rctech but I can't find it now.


Thanks,

Zach


23.3 is the measurement.
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Old 02-19-2009, 06:54 PM   #422
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It is amazing, I never tought my original post for the 8ight in my manufacturers' corner will reach 15 pages !!!
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Old 02-23-2009, 08:14 AM   #423
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Hi Adam...
Will the new flex chassis (2mm longer) fit the first version off the 8ight buggy? We need to upgrade anything?
Thanks
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:21 PM   #424
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Hey Adam , have you had a chance to race a l8ight model yet?If so how was it?I sure love mine!
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:29 PM   #425
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Questions?? new grp

Hey Adam , should a new tuned motor need to be sealed up,or only if it has problems
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Old 02-27-2009, 11:07 PM   #426
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i have the 1.0+2.0B and a 1.0T and am defiantly an A guy......the rear hub did not change enough to justify it being weaker or more prone to eating the bearing's.
The zero offset wheel places more stress on the shaft and bearing at the hubs...simple trigonometry. The outer bearing is small and cannot take as much stress as the larger bearings. Especially if you run neg camber.

I drilled out the outers for the larger bearing size, no problems. If you run a track with whoops and large jumps, the bearings were blowing in mine rather quickly. Now they are ok

This is a very good truggy, just a couple of band aids and it's rock solid
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Old 02-27-2009, 11:10 PM   #427
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Originally Posted by triloya View Post
Hi Adam...
Will the new flex chassis (2mm longer) fit the first version off the 8ight buggy? We need to upgrade anything?
Thanks
Mine did

2mm= --
That's not much
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Old 02-27-2009, 11:16 PM   #428
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Originally Posted by triloya View Post
Hi Adam...
Will the new flex chassis (2mm longer) fit the first version off the 8ight buggy? We need to upgrade anything?
Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by tharris1959 View Post
Mine did

2mm= --
That's not much
it will fit but you'll need the center rear driveshaft from the 2.0, the 1.0 driveshaft will not reach the center diff since the chassis is longer
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:46 PM   #429
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it will fit but you'll need the center rear driveshaft from the 2.0, the 1.0 driveshaft will not reach the center diff since the chassis is longer
Driveshaft part #A3536

There's a few other changes to the buggy, depends how much you want to do. Radio tray changed, center diff assy , front hub carriers, rear hubs, shock towers and the steering geometry.

If nothing else I would at least get the front hub carriers to go with that. It seems to give me a little more turn in
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:27 AM   #430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tharris1959 View Post
The zero offset wheel places more stress on the shaft and bearing at the hubs...simple trigonometry. The outer bearing is small and cannot take as much stress as the larger bearings. Especially if you run neg camber.

I drilled out the outers for the larger bearing size, no problems. If you run a track with whoops and large jumps, the bearings were blowing in mine rather quickly. Now they are ok

This is a very good truggy, just a couple of band aids and it's rock solid


we were more so talking about the buggy 2.0..... the T 2.0 discussion is over in the T 2.0 thread.
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Old 03-03-2009, 01:01 PM   #431
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HAWK498- Yes, I will be at RCX.

dsl- I don't make the front window hole bigger on the 8ight T 2.0.

l3asher- Not sure, but I will look into it.

cjm1126- No, not when the shock is built and the caps is installed.

l3asher- Running silicone fluid in the Smart diff won't hurt anything, but it will make the bugy or truck difficult to drive. I only use the smartdiff grease.

cota348- I always use buggy gearing on the buggy. You will notice the biggest difference with the smart diff on low bite tracks.

LOSI MAD- We will look into it.

J-DUB- We have had some problems with the bearings that came in the hubs of the 8ight T 2.0, but the replacement Losi bearing are great. I think we just got a bad batch in the kits. We will fix the problem.

mackyrocks- 23.4mm

triloya- You will also need to change the center rear driveshaft.

ovalosi- Yes, I raced it at J Tec and had a blast. You don't need to seal the tuend engine unless you are having a tuning problem.
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Old 03-03-2009, 02:11 PM   #432
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Quote:
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mackyrocks- 23.4mm

I see your now up .1mm..... do you feel the .3 is going too far ?
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Old 03-03-2009, 04:03 PM   #433
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we were more so talking about the buggy 2.0..... the T 2.0 discussion is over in the T 2.0 thread.
Thank you Integra
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Old 03-03-2009, 07:21 PM   #434
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Adam, could you share the setup you settled on at the Physco Nitro blast. My buggy worked good everywhere except shock therapy section, just want to find out where I went wrong.
Thanks
David
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:38 PM   #435
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I was curious as to why losi doesn't use flex cables or true cvds in the drive line for this buggy. The design of the driveline is going to cause increases and decreases in velocity of the spinning parts which will cause more wear.
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