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Old 11-24-2008, 12:51 AM   #256
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little mod i did to my 1.0 chassy's













what is this mod you did to your chassis and whats the benefit to it?
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:44 AM   #257
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He did the same upgrade that the new 2.0 has on it. THis has a small counter sunk screw that creates the "contact" patch for your droop screws. This keeps from having steel on aluminum wear and ever changing ride height.

This way things stay the same as the steel/steel will nearly not wear.
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Old 11-24-2008, 06:27 AM   #258
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the Constant Droop adjusting was the thing that got me.......soo much to a point that I NEVER set my droop...some may call me crazy....but w/e it's worked for me....i Do realize what set-up wise what im missing as ive driven buddy's cars with droop all set so they say.......so im very excited to actually run some darn droop on my cars now.
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:50 AM   #259
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Integra, what did you use to get the countersink in the chassis correct?
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:01 AM   #260
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Counter sink drill bit .
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Old 11-24-2008, 09:49 AM   #261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clebo3 View Post
Integra, what did you use to get the countersink in the chassis correct?


Bri.

from the tool and die shop i buy my bits from the guy explained that most of my hardware (rc grade stuff) has the same countersink angle's....therefor a standard countersink bit would work just fine....BUT i will warn you...if you cheep out on a crappy bit...its gonna give you a crappy counter....i would recommend spending at least 15-20$ on a decent bit....also you'll need a 1/16 and 3/32 QUALITY bits to do the job....along with a punch or scratch all or something to mark Dead center.
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Old 11-25-2008, 12:59 AM   #262
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i did this steel bump stop conversion to my chassis ages ago but i used a button head screw instead.
this is the part i used
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/15267

i found it was easier to get them out once they are worn down.
its way to hard getting the counter sunk screw out
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Old 11-25-2008, 01:21 AM   #263
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heres a pic of how i did it
Adam Drake talks about the new 8ight 2.0-steel-bump-stops.jpg
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Old 11-25-2008, 07:20 AM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Integra View Post
Bri.

from the tool and die shop i buy my bits from the guy explained that most of my hardware (rc grade stuff) has the same countersink angle's....therefor a standard countersink bit would work just fine....BUT i will warn you...if you cheep out on a crappy bit...its gonna give you a crappy counter....i would recommend spending at least 15-20$ on a decent bit....also you'll need a 1/16 and 3/32 QUALITY bits to do the job....along with a punch or scratch all or something to mark Dead center.

You can use 3/8" x 82* three flute countersink. Perfect for making 4-40 to 8-32 standard countersunk holes. Then you can pick up a 4-40 tap from Sears or somewhere like that, and a punch. That should do the trick.
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Old 11-25-2008, 08:08 AM   #265
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DirtyDezPirate- What clutch set-up are you running? Try richening the hsn even more. When are you going to Rev next?

losi_racer- I don't get out to The Nitro Pit that often. It's a five hour drive. What engine are you running? Try the following clutch set-up. 13/48, make sure you sand the inside of the clutch bell and spray all the oil / grease out of the bearings. I use Losi bearings and the following clutch set-up: two plastic shoes with green springs and two alum shoes with gold springs.
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Old 11-25-2008, 08:12 AM   #266
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Sorry to intrude on the 2.0 thread dudes. Adam, if you have time bro, can you chime in on the Losi 8ight build and setup thread as well? THAT WOULD ROCK!! cheers! TW
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Old 11-25-2008, 05:28 PM   #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Drake View Post
DirtyDezPirate- What clutch set-up are you running? Try richening the hsn even more. When are you going to Rev next?

losi_racer- I don't get out to The Nitro Pit that often. It's a five hour drive. What engine are you running? Try the following clutch set-up. 13/48, make sure you sand the inside of the clutch bell and spray all the oil / grease out of the bearings. I use Losi bearings and the following clutch set-up: two plastic shoes with green springs and two alum shoes with gold springs.
Adam, I am using same clutch setup that you have been running, green on compose, silver on aluminum.. UHmm.. next time i be at revo, not sure?? only time i can is on weekends.. whens the next event at revo?
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Old 11-25-2008, 08:10 PM   #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDezPirate View Post
Adam, I am using same clutch setup that you have been running, green on compose, silver on aluminum.. UHmm.. next time i be at revo, not sure?? only time i can is on weekends.. whens the next event at revo?



hes running Gold on alum.
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Old 11-26-2008, 07:24 AM   #269
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Adam, What is the easiest way to get the carb out of the motor. I want to clean my GRP .21, but i cant get the carb out. Even when i remove the screw and 2 pieces that hold it.
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Old 11-27-2008, 10:19 PM   #270
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Just bought a roller yesterday, honestly if it was a kit I probably wouldn't have got it because I just built a MBX6 and I just didn't feel like building another back to back. Anyway, my track is tight, smooth clay with med to high bite and large jumps. Using the stock setup as a baseline can anyone ( or Adam if you have time) suggest what changes might make it better for this type track? thanks

Last edited by KyJoe340; 11-30-2008 at 06:04 PM.
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