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Old 09-28-2008, 09:54 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by cjtamu View Post
Here, this method or something very similar is what nearly everyone I know uses. Bess is an excellent engine guy and knows what he's talking about. There is no way to tell if your engine is hitting 200 deg unless you have a temp gun b/c water doesn't boil till 212 deg so it will sit there awhile. Use aluminum foil on the head if you want it hotter.

http://www.johnnycoolguy.com/JCGR/ma..._break-in.html

As far as the sound, when it changes you'll know it. If you're still rich on the HSN needle then when you hit full throttle it will gurgle a little. That's fine as long as you're hitting the temps you need. Once it's broken in, then lean the HSN in small increments (about 1/8 turn), and run it for a minute or so until the gurgling goes away. After that, set you low needle. You car should be able to sit and idle for 10 seconds or so and then take off smoothly when you nail the throttle. After the high is set then test and adjust the LSN as needed. After you make a change run the car for a minute or so before you retest, it takes time for the engine to adjust to the changes.

It's always helped me to think of the carb as a funnel. The HSN controls the car at 1/2 throttle or so and more, but it's also the main supply (top of the funnel). So, anything you to to the high needle you're doing to the LSN (bottome of the funnel), just in smaller increment. So, if you richen the HSN 1/4 turn you've also richened the LSN a little b/c the high supplies the low. That's why you want to get the HSN setting close first, then set your low.
I noticed in your quote you included Rody's name. I wonder why if he's one of the engine designers and modders for RB. Why in the instructions (which I follow) does it still tell you to do it the old school way. Idle out first tank run rich for can't remember how many and so forth. You would think if he's the designer and chief modder for there engines they would prescribe the way it says in your link. Don't get me wrong cause I am not bashing you in no way. I just find it funny that I have broken in all my RB's per included instructions. I now have 8 gallons on my S3 and 4 on my WS7 without replacing a part. They are running just fine without a problem. I think either way works but if your a noob you probally want to learn the old way first cause its time tested and it works. Don't go experimenting with a new break in method on a 2-$400 engine. Heat cycling does work but you better know what your doing. If your going to try that method do it with somebody who knows what there doing. Otherwise your going to have a $400 paperweight.
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Old 09-28-2008, 10:10 AM   #17
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I suggest the following based on most RC recommendation:
- Break in for at least 2 tanks with 1/4 to 1/2 throttle until tank finished.
- Do the same thing for another 3 tanks, this time use the full throttle for 3 seconds.
- Then tuned up for high speed runs by adjusting High speed needle HSN 1/8 increments, then run to check increase in power and acceleration. Do this several time until you get or satisfied with the runs
- If the car start to stall during runs, richsn the HSN by 1/8 turns the re-test/run.

Hope this will help.

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Old 09-28-2008, 10:18 AM   #18
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Anybody with HPI Savage 4.4cc?

Can the wheels be locked or engaged that it can run during idling or breaking in?
My truck's wheels does not move freely while raised or suspended?... I mean while it is in neutral position.
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Old 09-29-2008, 07:21 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by vladconnery View Post
I noticed in your quote you included Rody's name. I wonder why if he's one of the engine designers and modders for RB. Why in the instructions (which I follow) does it still tell you to do it the old school way. Idle out first tank run rich for can't remember how many and so forth. You would think if he's the designer and chief modder for there engines they would prescribe the way it says in your link. Don't get me wrong cause I am not bashing you in no way. I just find it funny that I have broken in all my RB's per included instructions. I now have 8 gallons on my S3 and 4 on my WS7 without replacing a part. They are running just fine without a problem. I think either way works but if your a noob you probally want to learn the old way first cause its time tested and it works. Don't go experimenting with a new break in method on a 2-$400 engine. Heat cycling does work but you better know what your doing. If your going to try that method do it with somebody who knows what there doing. Otherwise your going to have a $400 paperweight.
I didn't mention Rody's name but Steve did in the article I linked to so I assume you're talking about that. But, if Steve says he talked to those guys you can bet he has. He's the editor for RC Car magazine and is a straight up guy. I was already using a very similar method before I ever talked to Steve about it, and that was more than 5 years ago, so the heat cycle method isn't that new. The one thing I do differently is actually idle on the box with the engine rich before I start break in. I do a total of about 10 minutes, in one minute or so sessions, then let the engine cool completely with the piston @ BDC. Just makes me feel like the bearings are completely lubed and everything is seated properly. After that I get it to 200 deg or so and do pretty much what Bess described. No idea why RB still recommends the old skool break-in, contact them and see, I'd like to know. Asking which break-in method to use is like asking which engine is best, you'll get 10,000 different answers.
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Old 09-29-2008, 07:40 AM   #20
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There is nothing new about heat cycling break ins. It's been used almost from the time the 2 stroke was invented. Read the Two Stroke Tuners Handbook to find out why.
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Old 09-29-2008, 08:01 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by ryanroma View Post
I understand that but I don't think it's getting anywhere near as warm as it should be so it's doing more damage than good when I take it out and run it to break it in..
Use a heat guy not that hard man
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