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Old 09-05-2008, 09:32 AM   #16
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-1

I would not buy this particular OS if I were you. It is a POS. Other OS engines may be OK and the previous sport engine the RG was praised but the VG will typically only last 2-3 gallons. Google it for yourself. It will start right up and hold a tune like an OS but wait until you've owned it for awhile. I have already had mine pinched and it's sitting stripped on my bench waiting for new crankcase bearings becuase there is so much play in them that I cannot keep a CB bearing from exploding before each practice day is over. Be careful and research an engine here and on the internet before you get one. You'll have plenty of time to do that though when you are enjoying (hopefully) your stock one. Learn all that you can on that one so you can take good care of a nicer one later. Good luck!
Yeah I am almost definitely not going with an OS, I've heard of too many problems so far to want one.
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Old 09-05-2008, 09:37 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by bjr48 View Post
-1

I would not buy this particular OS if I were you. It is a POS. Other OS engines may be OK and the previous sport engine the RG was praised but the VG will typically only last 2-3 gallons. Google it for yourself. It will start right up and hold a tune like an OS but wait until you've owned it for awhile. I have already had mine pinched and it's sitting stripped on my bench waiting for new crankcase bearings becuase there is so much play in them that I cannot keep a CB bearing from exploding before each practice day is over. Be careful and research an engine here and on the internet before you get one. You'll have plenty of time to do that though when you are enjoying (hopefully) your stock one. Learn all that you can on that one so you can take good care of a nicer one later. Good luck!
The GO engines are cheaper and last longer than the OS VG. The 21 3-port sport is decent, and the 21 3 port race is great. Either one is more power than a beginning driver needs...

If you want lots of power, long life, and don't care that it isn't class legal to race (buggies are limited to .21) try the Sportwerks .26 engine. $129.99 on A-main. Yes, it is a "cheap RTR engine" with a pull-start... but it is a good engine. Run the smallest restrictor (comes with a 6.5 mm) to tame it down. I'm about to buy one to put in my truggy (it IS legal in a truggy.)

And, as already mentioned... do yourself a favor and get a starter box.
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Old 09-05-2008, 09:39 AM   #18
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Yeah I am almost definitely not going with an OS, I've heard of too many problems so far to want one.
Don't lump them all together. The RG was decent, and the V-Spec is an AWESOME motor... (or the OS Speed, which is a modified V-Spec essentially) and OS carbs are just about the best ones made. Of course those are $300 motors too... (V-Spec)

p.s. just a question... why the LX-1? That's not a very good buggy...
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:25 AM   #19
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im pretty sure its the cheapest rtr 8th scale you can find like 280? at the LHS ..thats not not wier off brand...
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:26 AM   #20
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oops
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:28 AM   #21
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Old 09-05-2008, 12:04 PM   #22
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Don't lump them all together. The RG was decent, and the V-Spec is an AWESOME motor... (or the OS Speed, which is a modified V-Spec essentially) and OS carbs are just about the best ones made. Of course those are $300 motors too... (V-Spec)

p.s. just a question... why the LX-1? That's not a very good buggy...
The LX-1 because I had $275 and got it for $270, because it'll be my first nitro and I wanted a buggy, and because it's still easy to get parts for.
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Old 09-05-2008, 01:26 PM   #23
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Thanks.. I knew about the servos.. Would Hitec HS645MGs work fine for throttle and steering? And does the LX-One use a stick RX pack or hump? And I will be sure to throw the rest of my 30wt shock oil in the shocks.. I have a lot of Dynamite tools, so I should be covered on that..
yes the hs645mg works pretty good.had one in my lx-1 for about 4 months or so. another thing to think about is a good exaust pipe. the stock two piece started coming apart on me after landing 50 or so big jumps. the JP-3 works great, new around $70.
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Old 09-06-2008, 12:52 AM   #24
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Default Your LX-1

The five cell hump pac works good. Get some foam and stuff the box to keep everything tight. Also route the batt. wires out side and remove the on-off switch, it gets knocked off on side shots, and makes one less thing to go wrong. About the time you can't keep the tune right it'll be clutch going away. Get alum. shoes and 1.1 grm springs to keep some snap for the jumps. The pipe will bend like paper. Take off, plug with something and fill with water and put it in the frezzer over night and it'll pop back out. The OFNA 063 pipe runs real well ands around 35 bucks. - Remember guys we'er doing this on the cheep- Tires, are you going to the track or bashing? At the track the realy fast guys will maybe give you there take offs plus give good advice. Fuel, ONLY 20%. that stock mill will die fast if you run it hot. Always tune for smoke even on long runs. Keep the air filter clean, this is a must !!! Try to keep it, the car, clean. Stay away from water, it'll kill the servos fast. Yes it does have brakes, ajust 'em well and learn how to use 'em and you won't hit so mush stuff. Need to know more? PM me. Have a blast.
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Old 09-06-2008, 04:19 PM   #25
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Just got home from working cleaning up someone's yard from Gustav(Thanks, you gaya$$ storm!) And now I've got an extra $70 to spend. I am torn on what to buy first with this influx of cash.. Can anyone help lol? I don't know if I should buy 2 new 645MGs, a new motor after I save up more, tires rims and a body, or Xtreme Racing carbon fiber hop-ups...
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Old 09-06-2008, 06:55 PM   #26
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Personally if you are decided on the car just get it and bank the money for a little while. Break it in. Run the thing.

If you are going to a track -
Find out what kind of tires work best out there and get them. Tires are the first key to a track setup. Get the shocks and suspension setup after that. Learn the track and see what breaks on your particular car and spend the money on a few spare parts right away. Nothing sucks more than breaking and having to go home. Also on a track servos might be the first big thing after tires if the stock ones won't alow you to turn very good.

If you are bashing at home and don't get crazy you probably won't break many things. Drive the car for awhile and see what bugs you the most and spend money on upgrading that.

Some of these choices will turn out to be your own personal preference vs. what we try to tell you so the same advice holds - run it for awhile and you'll know what to buy next!
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Old 09-06-2008, 07:06 PM   #27
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Save your self the trouble and hassle of pullstarts. Get a starter box. This is the one I use and it works great, only $55 but you need a battery and charger. If you have a car battery laying around you can use that too.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/11556

PS: You can get the box $5 cheaper at carolinasrc.com, I just wanted to give the link on amain because there was a picture.
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Old 09-06-2008, 07:07 PM   #28
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Also, if you want to race get a .21 engine. the stock engine in your buggy is a .28 and is not race legal.
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Old 09-07-2008, 06:48 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjr48 View Post
Personally if you are decided on the car just get it and bank the money for a little while. Break it in. Run the thing.

If you are going to a track -
Find out what kind of tires work best out there and get them. Tires are the first key to a track setup. Get the shocks and suspension setup after that. Learn the track and see what breaks on your particular car and spend the money on a few spare parts right away. Nothing sucks more than breaking and having to go home. Also on a track servos might be the first big thing after tires if the stock ones won't alow you to turn very good.

If you are bashing at home and don't get crazy you probably won't break many things. Drive the car for awhile and see what bugs you the most and spend money on upgrading that.

Some of these choices will turn out to be your own personal preference vs. what we try to tell you so the same advice holds - run it for awhile and you'll know what to buy next!
Well so far I've got on my list:

Pro-Line Bow-Tie M2 1/8 Buggy(2)
Hitec HS645MG High-Torque Servo
And I've got both 30 and 35 weight shock oil in my parts box right now.

The buggy was shipped out Friday!!!
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Old 09-07-2008, 09:53 AM   #30
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Add one more part to your list...a hardend ring gear for the rear end. This is by far the weakest part of the buggy. You wont have to put it in right away, but after you run the LX1 for a couple of hours you will.
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