butch man

Speaking of lemons I forgot to mention way up in my first post my jammin 21 has alway been good but I also have 2 P-7 evo2 & one feels like my jammin 21 & the other has never been right It has pinch & no odd bearing or rod noise but is severely lacking in power.Broke in the same way & tuned the same way but I gave up on it at less than 2 gallons.Its a lemon but wont stop me from buying another jammin (suppose to be same motor) I just like the red head more.

MonkeyWrench

Go Speed and you will never look back! They are Easy to tune, They hold a tune, make a ton of power, idle forever and so on. Matter of fact Ive finished better against better drivers several times because my motors never give me trouble. The extra $ for one is all worth it to me.

wriffwraff

i know this thread is old, but i've been trolling for information online about the O.S. vspec b/c i just ordered one two days ago. i'm excited and nervous b/c the experiences posted regarding this particular engine are as varied as one could imagine. however, as mentioned earlier, it's the most popular .21 off road racing engine, so perhaps, that explains the variations. anyway, let me ask... what do you guys think about sealing the backplate and carb? i usually don't seal my engines, but for this engine, i've decided to take it apart to clean it, oil it and seal it before running it. so again, if i may ask, do you guys think that sealing an off road engine is a must, given the likelihood that micro off-road engines are extremely vunerable to dirt ingestion if not sealed?

Joey Powell

iTrader: (7)

It's not for the dirt ingestion. It's because an air leak will cause your tune to be erratic. As a precaution I'll seal my engines with Lucky 7. http://tkocompetitiondev.com/index.php?cPath=38_114 It works way better than silicone. I hit the backplate, carb base, high end assembly, and pinch bolt.

Toiffel

iTrader: (52)

I have EB Mod V Spec with 7 1/2 gallons on it and still running strong. I have sealed backplate, carb, and pinch bolt, the only issue I've had from time to t ime, is having to replace the dust cover on the LSN, you have to inspect it on a regular bassis, cause with time you will get some tiny holes that will throw your tune way off, and worst case is that it might suck some dirt. At fist I was hesitant to get an OS after all the horror stories, not lasting more than two gallons, but after owning one, I'm very pleased, to the point that I'm ordering a new p/s & rod for it.

When you take it apart do not use WD-40, use some good quality AFR oil to lube it up. As far as engine sealant I use Lucky 7 very good quality.

wriffwraff

wow, quick responses... thanks. so "lucky 7", huh? yeah, i really like it too, cos' it's less mess, it dries quickly and you don't have to take the engine apart to use it if you don't want to. unfortunately, it was sold out when i ordered my engine online the other day and as the "nitro-cosmos" would have it, it's in stock today. so, if i can't find any locally, [which i seriously doubt], i'll just seal the backplate and the carb neck the old fashioned way, until i can get some for the other areas of the carb. i managed to get the green slime though... so it will be fairly sealed when i break it in this weekend.

also, i'm going to drop some new bearings and conrod in it at the close of the first gallon, if not sooner. hopefully, i can post back with some positive news about this engine, cos' i haven't had much luck with engines over the years. i think i've been through six engines in two years. i've had three rtr's under cen warranty... a stock .26 NX, a stock .28 GO and a stock .28 SH. plus, a .21 axe rossi mamba engine and a cobra kit. the mamba had to be warrantied twice. warranty engines didn't last at all. oh and i can't forget the .26 sportswerks that i bought as a back up while all this was going on. however, early on, it too had to be warrantied. upside is that it's still running. matter of fact, i just cleaned and oiled it and put it in the SH case with a slightly used rear bearing. anyway, that's like, eight engines, if you count the warranties i sure hope i get it right this time around. given my stats, if i can just get it to last until winter i will feel somewhat vindicated. oh well, thanks again, mates

amendment: just watched this " how to seal " vid @ youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PopyUFy6j34 it's not lucky 7, but similiar looking... and it looks just like silicon to me... it's just in a small bottle. can anyone confirm? if so, i'm back to my earlier thoughts/suspicions, which is that the high temp sealant is the same thing.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

Wait atleast 1-2 gallons before you change the bearings and rod. If you chnge the rod too early, you negate the effects of having a new rod. You want the engine to be fully broken in before changing it. If it's not fully broken in, and all metal pinch gone, you will be putting stress on the new rod. I would also reccomend going to a speed or JX ninja(same) rod, if you haven't already bought the v-spec rod. The speed/JX rods are alot stronger, and have an oiling hole in them, so you will get extra lubrication to the crank pin and bushing.