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Old 08-31-2008, 09:10 PM
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Default Burning Plugs By The Tank

I have a REVO 3.3 that I have run approx. 20-25 tanks of 20% through. I am burning plugs by the tank it seems like. I have tried several different plugs from TRAXXAS, but they keep burning up. I have been through 8-10 in the past 6 weeks.

They tend to burn up after 10-15 minutes of run-time, killing the engine immediately. I have been runing the engine on the rich side, but the plugs are not gooping up when they burn.

Please help. Thanks.
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:16 PM
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Having it too rich and foul plugs out too but I've never had any plugs go out by the tank. But I stay away from anything traxxas...
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:20 PM
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Thanks for the response.

Would you suggest moving over to O.S. plugs to help?
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:21 PM
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look to see if the element is pounded up in. I'm thinking it is, and youre too rich.
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:23 PM
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The actual element has been distorted on the majority of the plugs that burnt. I leaned the engine out tonight and will run it tomorrow if I can find a shop open to get some plugs.
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:57 PM
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I was blowing plugs when I had overleaned the top to compensate for a dirty rich bottom. Go Tech...
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Old 08-31-2008, 11:31 PM
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adding a shim under the button head might help
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Old 08-31-2008, 11:35 PM
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I have heard of placing 2-3 extra o-rings under the plug. Out of curiosity, how does this help solve the issue?
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Old 09-01-2008, 12:02 AM
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My understanding is its a clearance and compression issue. By adding or reducing shims under the button head you change these 2 factors.

Just yesterday after changing my button head from a turbo to a standard I blew my plug after my first run. I added a .02 shim, problem solved. Just thinking that if its not tuning this might help. Adding a shim under your plug is totally different from adding under the button head. There should only be one copper washer under a standard plug. Hope this helps
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Old 09-01-2008, 12:06 AM
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Thanks for the info.

I will see if I can resolve the issue by tightening up the tuning. If not, I will look at a shim.
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Old 09-01-2008, 04:05 AM
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If you were not having this problem before with this motor then you probably need a rod. Loose rod bearings or a stretched rod allows the piston to come up higher, increasing compression and destroying the plug. Replace the rod (or just get a better motor) or for a quick and cheap fix, add a head shim and run it until it blows.
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Old 09-01-2008, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by wingracer
If you were not having this problem before with this motor then you probably need a rod. Loose rod bearings or a stretched rod allows the piston to come up higher, increasing compression and destroying the plug. Replace the rod (or just get a better motor) or for a quick and cheap fix, add a head shim and run it until it blows.
+1

also check your front bearings and block for leaks.
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Old 09-01-2008, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by wingracer
If you were not having this problem before with this motor then you probably need a rod. Loose rod bearings or a stretched rod allows the piston to come up higher, increasing compression and destroying the plug. Replace the rod (or just get a better motor) or for a quick and cheap fix, add a head shim and run it until it blows.
+1

also check your front bearings and block for leaks. You may also want to go with a warm/cold plug
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Old 09-01-2008, 10:02 AM
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When the connecting rod is worn out/sloppy or bad it wil blow plugs really fast. So maybe check the rod bushing fit to the crank pin out. The engine should be shimmed OK/conservatively from the manufacturer for compression and if the coil in the plug is being pushed into the plug body, then adding more compression to the engine (less head shims) will only make it worse.
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