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Old 08-25-2008, 12:35 PM   #1
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Default Need an engine that doesn't have to be blipped or driven like an On/Off switch

I have a habit of driving at partial throttle through the tight stuff and evidently most engines like to be cleared out periodically. The majority of guys seem to blip the throttle all the time and I'm having a hard time staying smooth that way. Is there any particular engine that's good at being driven at partial throttle and still make linear power? (for the record, when I hit the straight I'm WFO)

Currently I'm running a P5X and V2. The P5 definitely likes to be opened up frequently, the V2 is brand new and I haven't had enough time to determine how it's going to behave. I'm liking the usual suspects, Vspec and GRP. Your thoughts?

Thank you.
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Old 08-25-2008, 12:45 PM   #2
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I don't think any engines need to be Blipped. We mostly do it just to prevent stalling. You will also notice it's done allot more when the engine is first started to help with warm-up. I don't blip after about 10 minutes, cause I know I have good idle, and my engine is at prime operating temps. I don't understand what you mean by driving it like an on/off switch
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Old 08-25-2008, 12:53 PM   #3
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if your engine is loading up and constantly has to be cleared out AFTER its up to temp then you are probably running it to rich. Lean it out more... if you are a driver that really never goes wide open then you can probably lean it out even more.
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Old 08-25-2008, 12:54 PM   #4
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i use P5XS and i can se where your coming form my p5x likes to run rich as a result if it isnt cleared freqently it will start to bog slighlty my track is relativly long roughly 1 min laps with 1 short straight, i used to use a rbws711 and it was extremely smooth am actualy planning on using it the next race just finsihed settign it up today.
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Old 08-25-2008, 01:11 PM   #5
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Best motor for not blipping is an electric!!!
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Old 08-25-2008, 01:12 PM   #6
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I understand were you are coming from cannondale, I have a hard time driving a motor that doesn't make instant power like a mod electric.

I have found that it is mostly tuning but some motors just don't like to run that way. It seems to require setting the low (and mid if you have one) needle correctly. I get the high speed set good then start leaning the low untill I get the rip I need, usually will have to lower idle. When you get it correct the motor will also make great fuel milage.

I have foud that some motors just won't do it with my driving style. RB WS7's and anything traxxas come to mind. I run mostly O.S. and they are the best at it that I have found. Also lower port count, low end tuned motors do better than top end motors.

I would suggest you hit up some guys at the track with different style motors and see what suits you.
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Old 08-25-2008, 02:00 PM   #7
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I know the feeling. Coming from an electric background and starting Nitro racing this summer.

It took quite a bit of practice and i still find myself "rolling" into the throttle sometimes and not making jumps, then I have to kick myself. But when the motor is running well and up to temperature, I can roll into the throttle on slick or looser conditions.

Biggest thing I noticed is trying different clutch set-ups and also realizing that "blipping" isn't going to affect the car as if it were an electric. Having the motor tuned correctly, the right clutch set-up, the right tires and accepting the fact "blipping" is part of nitro will be the best way.
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Old 08-25-2008, 02:16 PM   #8
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I think the motor with the smoothest power band is the OS Speed. The low end torque feels much like electric torque. Unfortunately they cost between $399 and $499 depending on where you get it. Ive run RB C6's, WS72's&3's, and novarossi's, so i know what your talking about.

However I have found one crazy combo that feels like the OS speed but is a bit cheaper. Oh man you guys are going to laugh...

OK, I used an RB S3L2G (the super cheap $179.00 3 port-RB) as the block. I then purchase an RB S5 or S7 turbo cut crank (normally I get one parted out cheap from ebay around $40.00). I swap the Sport carborator for the newer RB BB style carborator (the one with the idle screw on the top). However, you don't have to do this, I just like the idle screw on top because its easer to get to. Then I take 15 minutes and put a quick port job on the S3 sleeve. Wallaaa...! ...you have a 3 port RB race motor, with excellent low-end torque and it loves 1/4 and 1/2 throttle action. It will also out-last any OS if you change the rod after 3 gallons.

You can take two more steps to create the ultimate RB 3 port by adding a Turbo button head and a set of ceramics after you break it in. If you do this, the motor will perform very similar to the OS speed, except it will last longer, and be cheaper to maintain.

Approximate cost using Ebay or sales parts:
S3L2G $180.00
BB carb $50 (optional)
S5 or S7 crank $50.00
total around: $280.00 - $230.00

Super 3 port RB: (comparable to OS Speed in band and run time):
S3L2G $180.00
BB carb $50
S5 or S7 crank $50.00
Turbo head button $35
Ceramic Bearings $40

Total around: $355.00

The advantage of using the RB motor line is defiantly longevity, as they use harder materials than OS. Some people that "use and toss" motors weekly probably would never try something like this, but if you already re-build your motors it should be easy. I actually enjoy working on my motors and modifying if needed to get the power band results I want. Or if you have an S7 just pick up the 3 port piston and sleeve instead of the 7 port. The 3 port is the key to the smooth torque everyone wants.

I run this motor in expert class buggy racing all the time and have finished very very well, top 5 in my last 4 races. I also run the OS speed, but only for the two day races when I have to run against factory pro's.

I did find a deal on 4 other motors that would be as competitive as the Speed, and are known for descent powerbands. The new Ninja JX21 and STI Sirio should be good also.
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http://www.airlandhobbies.com/catalo...1585242210.htm



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Old 08-25-2008, 02:27 PM   #9
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i run the os speed and the grp engines, when they are tuned properly they dont have to be cleared out all of the time on the track, the engine should load up if you let it idle for a while, but when you are on the track you should be able to go through the rpm range with out having to blip it all the time, the grp is one of the smoothest engines, the speeds have more bottom, if you are looking for a speed i sell them on ebay for 399.95 under cjm recycling, if you end up going with a grp dont get the promo kit with the pipe, that pipe restricts the motor alot, i found that it worked better with the associated/thunder tiger 2035
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Old 08-26-2008, 01:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cannondale1974 View Post
I have a habit of driving at partial throttle through the tight stuff and evidently most engines like to be cleared out periodically. The majority of guys seem to blip the throttle all the time and I'm having a hard time staying smooth that way. Is there any particular engine that's good at being driven at partial throttle and still make linear power? (for the record, when I hit the straight I'm WFO)

Currently I'm running a P5X and V2. The P5 definitely likes to be opened up frequently, the V2 is brand new and I haven't had enough time to determine how it's going to behave. I'm liking the usual suspects, Vspec and GRP. Your thoughts?

Thank you.
Get a Speed. I hold the throttle at half all through a tight section and pull it back at the end to clear a triple and I get through there just as fast as a guy using the on/off method.And by the way, Ironically one of my speeds came from the guy above me. He is great @ 399. and 12 bucks shipping ... Got one of them in 2 days.
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Old 08-26-2008, 01:39 AM   #11
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go brushless
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Old 08-26-2008, 03:58 AM   #12
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go brushless
I do believe we are in the NITRO OFFROAD FORUM! lol
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Old 08-26-2008, 04:52 AM   #13
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Its definitely tuning. You should be able to run partial throttle through a section, then hit it hard and it should take off without hesitation. Its a fine line between the low-end screw and the high-end to get it right.....

Some pretty good suggestions in the above posts to try.
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Old 08-26-2008, 06:39 AM   #14
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go brushless
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Old 08-26-2008, 11:58 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cannondale1974 View Post
I have a habit of driving at partial throttle through the tight stuff and evidently most engines like to be cleared out periodically. The majority of guys seem to blip the throttle all the time and I'm having a hard time staying smooth that way. Is there any particular engine that's good at being driven at partial throttle and still make linear power? (for the record, when I hit the straight I'm WFO)

Currently I'm running a P5X and V2. The P5 definitely likes to be opened up frequently, the V2 is brand new and I haven't had enough time to determine how it's going to behave. I'm liking the usual suspects, Vspec and GRP. Your thoughts?

Thank you.
I would suggest the GRP, it is the closest to a linear powerband I've found so far. The O.S. V-spec(standard) hits fairly hard right off the bottom, so it makes driving at partial throttle openings a little more difficult. I drive very smoothly and like to roll on the power through a corner and the GRP really suits this. There are no sudden 'bangs' in the power delivery.
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