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Old 08-26-2008, 06:09 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by TC3ElectricGuy View Post
buggy = x1cr
engine = Max Power M5B
diff spur gear = stock 48t ???
clutch bell = 13t
pipe = Max Power 2017 pipe

Ok. what i want is more top end speed from my buggy. Though the engine is probably not running at 100% please don't take that into consideration for this thread as i don't think it will get me the speed i want.

The engine is running sweet, quick accelleration, very good fuel consumption 9mins, quick but not fast topend.

Now i have a carb restrictor in place, but have been told that removing that won't help me get the top end i need and i should change my gearing.

I'm sure with the carb restrictor in place i will still get my driveability, but i need and want more top end to reduce my lap times as i race on a fast track.

So should i change the 13t bell to a 14t bell, or change my spur gear down to the next size. 48 to 46.??

thanks in advance.
Yes changing your CB up and Spur down= more top end
Just as Changing your CB down and Spur Up = more torque (bottom end)
Compensate for loss or gain in either by changing your clutch shoes and springs.
More punch on bottom end = aluminum shoes and stiffer springs
Less punch on bottom end = composite shoes and softer springs

No matter which direction you head you loose something. i.e. bottom or top end.
I guess I should take it that you are getting work in the technical part of the track. However your buggy's takes a lunchbreak in the straights. Gearing is an all around adjustment clutch shoes, clutch springs, CB and Spur. Just doing one and expecting gains with no losses is a pipe dream. You may very well turn into the guy who was chasing you in the technical. And eating you up in the straights. Should you gain top end expect to have to work harder in the technical part of the track. A need to Compensate for loss of torque that you earlier enjoyed with previous set up will be inevetible.

Put your gearing together as a whole picture not just one part.

change to aluminum shoes and stiffer springs to maintain as much torque as possible in the technical.

Gear up CB 14,16T= same rpm's but turns spur more times per rpm

Gear down Spur 47, 46, 45= smaller diameter causes faster revolutions

Think of it much like your ten speed bike. Your legs being the engine. lower gears easier to peddle less (power) torque needed at take off. Higher gears harder to peddle more (power) torque needed at take off. By changing to aluminum shoes and stiffer springs. The engine will need to spool up more for springs to allow shoes to engage CB. Aluminum shoes grab harder and will provide less clutch slippage hence more punch or wheel spin.
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Old 08-26-2008, 06:26 AM   #17
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well the engine he is running is more of a bottom end engine, and the pipe he has on it is more of a bottom end pipe, you either have to change the pipe to more of a top end pipe or just put a 14tooth, easiest solution is a clutchbell, 14 isnt a huge jump, the car probably is to strong on the bottom as it is with that set so a 14 will make the bottom easier and the top stronger, those engines like the 9886 086 style pipe for top end performance
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Old 08-26-2008, 01:33 PM   #18
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RB928 + 16 tooth pinion + JP3 pipe= Really damn fast!!
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Old 08-26-2008, 02:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximo View Post
I could always sell you a faster motor if you wish..I have modified Picco/JPX .21's that are extremely fast motors... pretty much nothing short of a high end brushless will be able to touch you down the straight with one of these engines installed.. ....they get good runtime as well, especially considering the power output they have......
Hahahaha, you crack me up Maximus!!!
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Old 08-26-2008, 05:57 PM   #20
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if you are running out too early on the straights, by all means, change to a larger cb. keep in mind you will lose some lowend punch and will have to be more smooth on the technical parts of the track. i sometimes practice with a larger cb just to remind myself that slow and smooth in the technical stuff is what makes you fast, not speed down the chute.
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:52 PM   #21
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Catch 'em and pass 'em in the tech section with bottom end punch and fuel consumption Leaning the top an hour or two if you have the temp range left will probably help more than losing bottom for top. Figure how long your on the straight compared with the rest of the track.
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Old 08-27-2008, 03:45 AM   #22
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thanks everyone for your help.

i talked to the guys at the LHS today and they suggested i change the pipe first. 14t bell won't help.

i will also lean out the top end 1 or 2 hours as this is what i richened it up by.

I must admit. i blew the centre diff preety badly which probably resulted in loss of power. power from engine not being used effeciently by the drive train.

i have just rebuild my diff with new parts and 7000 oil. so i'm sure this will solve my problem. i will also be putting my engine a fraction closer to the spur gear to get rid of slack.

thanks agian for suggestions and support.
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