jpalessi

iTrader: (55)

save your money and send me your addy... I'll send you 1 for free..

Because if i can get your vote this BS convo was worth it. lol

Integra

iTrader: (8)

free bottle...Sure..

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Just read where ThreeBond is highly corrosive to copper and copper alloys. Bronze rod bearings are a copper alloy. I doubt it would hurt anything but something to think about.

jpalessi

iTrader: (55)

I see you changed your post rather quickly! lol NO hard feelings here..

I see you stand by products you like, and if I can get you to stand by mine that would be good for me. and of course I'm going to "rep " my product.... wouldn't you!

Integra

iTrader: (8)

PM sent....we'll talk more.

Maximo

iTrader: (11)

[QUOTE=Allumina;4738188]My rule of thumb is, if the part is O-ringed, don't seal it. If the O-ring is bad...REPLACE THE O-RING. As long as your O-rings are nice and healthy, you don't need to silicone anything, if that was the case, wouldn't your motor come siliconed up from the factory?



I disagree with you here.. I have been involved in engine building for the last 2 decades and I have come to the conclusion the only seals I trust are adhesive contact seals like Silicone...No matter how good you think your O-rings and seals are they will never seal as well or as consistently as properly applied sealant..IMO manufactures do not use sealant due to time and hassle, it is much easier just to use O-rings....

anyways here are pictures of my Sirio CL7B, a motor that came with very high grade O-rings and good machining fitment....even with all this the motor still leaked, and the only way to fix the leak was to use my trusty 1211.......these pictures were taken early in the engines life, the O-rings were still very fresh..

jpalessi

iTrader: (55)

Great pictures Maximo! I'm sure your 1211 works, but give Lucky 7 a shot.
I think you'll find it works great, and is much easier and cleaner to work with.
It goes on very thin, so it can work it's way around and in cracks. Then drys fast into a tight bond.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

max is my modder....we look forward to testing out your stuff....obviously not for the crank tho.

jmonte23

iTrader: (19)

Could someone actually post a picture of what a decent seal job looks like...or even a bad one so we can see what not to do. Thanx, JoJo Monte

Integra

iTrader: (8)

i can do that for ya. 10 -15 min

Don Duct

Yes please. And point out where you put the stuff.




I've been told to apply VERY thin Black high temp RTV. The same stuff used to seal engine heads. Drag cars use something, wonder if they use RTV also, and they run nitro. I'd think that if they use that stuff to seal engine heads it would work fine on an RC engine.

There are two O-Rings for my carb on my OS V-Spec and it still leaked. Only have a gallon though the engine.

So... I saw a few people say a little around the edge of the button head? Seems like a logical place as there is no sealer or O-Rings there at all, only screws. Anyone else agree? Why wouldn't you seal the button?



Thanks for all the posts. I'd like to see more constuctive feedback and I am really curious about the button head. It does help to know why you feel one method is better then the other, but no need to make it an arguement. I didn't want to start anything here.

vladconnery

iTrader: (35)

There is a huge and I mean HUGE difference between a 4,6,8 cyl car and a 2 stroke engine. A gas engine does not have nitro flowing through all parts. In a gas engine the only thing the sealent comes in contact with (liquid) is oil. Read the the label in the directions and I quote "NOTE: Not recommened for use on head gaskets or parts in contact with gasoline." The reason why I can quote the label because I too was hard headed and thought I could use it. I bought some used it on an engine and now the engine. Is in the stupid a$$ hard headed users graveyard. When seeking advice on a RC site take in to consideration we know the answers because we already screwed it up by being hard headed. Use the products that were recommened to you when in doubt do it anyway for sh*ts and giggles.

Don Duct

What are those products? Sounded like Lucky 7 is nothing more then red RTV. And there is a comment in Amainhobbies that said Racers Edge carb sealer is nothing more then red RTV also.

So what product is left? How do you guys seal the engine, besides just simply using o-rings?

-Don

vladconnery

iTrader: (35)

Don,

I simply don't want to see you make a costly mistake. Engines cost as much as a buggy kit. No need to risk anything over $10 at the most. Nitro is more corrosive than gas so even if it said ok in a gas enviroment. I would still stick with a product specific to the application. Here is a video on youtube on how to seal your engine. He uses the hi temp engine copper seal. Definately do not use the black seal its not gas proof. www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xwDy-I0Z4I

jpalessi

iTrader: (55)

Lucky 7 engine sealant is NOT red, and is NOT RTV.
It IS a special blended formula, designed to seal NITRO engines.

http://lucky7rc.com/description.html