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Old 08-06-2008, 10:23 PM   #46
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Thanx for the replys everyone.
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Old 08-06-2008, 10:53 PM   #47
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07' Cummins dodge~~~~~~~~~~~

...We've resorted to running the truck on aged Hennessey though, it's cheaper than diesel at the pump.
freakin' funny
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Old 08-06-2008, 11:32 PM   #48
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Don't skimp on quality with trailers. I know, I had to buy 2 after the first one was from a "new" company. It was junk and wasn't engineered right. It towed terribly. It cost me a couple grand to learn a lesson and buy the right trailer the first time. Get the options installed at the factory, it's waaaaay cheaper than doing it yourself and looks better. Yeah it's more upfront, but well worth it. Again, I learned the hard way. This one is fully finished inside and is wired for 110 V and has 12V lighting. The only thing I wish I would have ordered was the generator storage compartment and AC supports. I could have added the AC unit later if the supports were in the roof. Haulmark, Pace, etc are all quality trailers. Mine is a Rance Renegade all aluminum trailer. Weighs 2400 lbs unloaded. I think most 20ft trailers like mine with a V nose in steel would be over 5k. Behind my Duramax, it wouldn't matter how much it weighed. I tried pulling this trailer with my 2003 1/2 ton Chevy, and while it had the power to pull it, I had a tough time stopping it when it was loaded with my race sleds and support equipment. Midsize cars are not meant to pull enclosed trailers unless they are small and narrow. Too much wind resistance, you will end up with tranny problems sooner or later. I went through 3 trannies on my MX6 Mazda trying to pull a single open snowmobile trailer. Just because your car has the power to pull something, it doesn't mean it can be done safely. Make sure you can stop it at highway speeds. I don't care how many sleds, 4 wheelers, pit bikes, tools etc. are in the back, my truck will pull and stop it. A 3/4 ton is a must with a heavier load. No more white knuckle trips through Canada on the way to Michigan with this rig. Now I can relax. I just can't afford to put diesel fuel in it.
Quoted for truth.
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Old 08-07-2008, 05:02 PM   #49
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I thought about it overnight a little. Some of the races we go too can get pretty soggy, so 4WD would be needed. I guess a car, or older station wagon is out of the picture. So the little SUVs is where I need to look, I guess. They get around in town pretty well, like a little go-kart, LOL.
Subaru Forester or Impreza Wagon. Forester is better due to the 6 cylinders. And both are AWD.

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Old 08-07-2008, 07:26 PM   #50
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Subaru Forester or Impreza Wagon. Forester is better due to the 6 cylinders. And both are AWD.

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Ok. ok. You got me there.
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Old 08-07-2008, 08:23 PM   #51
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Ok. ok. You got me there.
Ya... Try to find another wagon that's AWD and 6 cylinder that'll give you little pain in terms of maintainence. Although that solely depends on NOT breaking-in the engine via the owner's manual and changing the oil every 3000 miles. Use the method that is similar to heat cycling your nitro motors. It's used in many applications and make a lot of sense after when you see the pictures of the internal parts of an engine that was broken in via owner's manual instructions VS via heat cycling method. Night and day.

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Old 08-07-2008, 08:27 PM   #52
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ROOKIES!! peterbuilt 379 60" flattop sleeper with 7" straight stacks 550hp cat with a 53' reefer trailer = plenty of room for pitting and i can set the reefer for -20 after a nite of beer and eggs.
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:34 PM   #53
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LOL. Now that's a truck.

I'll probably just get an older truck that can handle the towing. I'd use my 94' F150 4x4 but there's no A/C or insulation. It really sucks on drives over 20 minutes. Plus it can't haul the extra people. It can sure haul my drag car though.

Used, heavy duty truck and used car should get me by.
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Old 08-08-2008, 05:54 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by paddyhong View Post
Ya... Try to find another wagon that's AWD and 6 cylinder that'll give you little pain in terms of maintainence. Although that solely depends on NOT breaking-in the engine via the owner's manual and changing the oil every 3000 miles. Use the method that is similar to heat cycling your nitro motors. It's used in many applications and make a lot of sense after when you see the pictures of the internal parts of an engine that was broken in via owner's manual instructions VS via heat cycling method. Night and day.

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Well... Volvo V70... it's only 5 cylinders... but there are turbo AWD versions, and the V70R with ~300 hp, AWD, and higher slalom speeds than a 'Vette sounds pretty good to me! (And with a wagon, who needs a trailer?)
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Old 08-08-2008, 12:13 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Allumina View Post
07' Cummins dodge~~~~~~~~~~~

We get over 15 pulling a fully loaded racecar trailer with a sprintcar, quad, 8 extra tires, spares, full rolling pitcart.

We've resorted to running the truck on aged Hennessey though, it's cheaper than diesel at the pump.
96 F350 with 212000 miles pulling a 7000 lb bobcat 18-20 mpg aveage
didn't mean to make this mine is bigger than yours ha ha
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Old 08-08-2008, 04:56 PM   #56
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Well... Volvo V70... it's only 5 cylinders... but there are turbo AWD versions, and the V70R with ~300 hp, AWD, and higher slalom speeds than a 'Vette sounds pretty good to me! (And with a wagon, who needs a trailer?)
True... But I'm pretty sure the price goes up by maybe another 10 or 15K at least for the Volvo? LOL! Well, whatever floats his boat.

Wagons are different though. You can't work inside it. =b

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