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Old 08-02-2008, 09:41 AM   #16
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I figure that your local shop is airland hobbies and if so they do a good pinch job. I had one done last week by them and it had to have the low end way lean to idle and then as it loosen again i could richen it up.

If you race at rev and will be there today look me and my buds up Chris, charlie or rob....we will get you running!
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Old 08-02-2008, 10:26 AM   #17
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I figure that your local shop is airland hobbies and if so they do a good pinch job. I had one done last week by them and it had to have the low end way lean to idle and then as it loosen again i could richen it up.

If you race at rev and will be there today look me and my buds up Chris, charlie or rob....we will get you running!
That is where i had it done. I do not doubt the pinch job at all and I am very confident that it was done right. your right about the low speed having to be all the way in. I will try to get out there next Sat. I really appreciate your willingness to help. Thanks Chris
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Old 08-03-2008, 01:23 AM   #18
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Patrick what you are describing is common for new engines and seeing as yours has been pinched it would fall into the tight at TDC category, i would imagine that once you have re-run in the P/L it will run right again.
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Old 08-03-2008, 02:04 AM   #19
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Hmm.. Are you sure its not the piston? Ive done it before and it did exactly what hes describing.
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Old 08-03-2008, 02:16 AM   #20
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i dont think it will go in reverse and survive, the piston skirt is removed on one side to clear the crank bearing if you swapped it around im almost certain the piston would be damaged which would damage the motor, if the pinch is very tight it will struggle to idle at nomal revs due to this over tightness, and will require running in again to re seat the piston/liner
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Old 08-03-2008, 03:28 AM   #21
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I beileive the piston will clear on the OS , I know it won't on Novarossi's because the deck is lower on them . It is very long for the OS. Tall deck, longer than normal rod, square bore and stroke = screaming rpms and torquey bottom
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Old 08-03-2008, 07:20 AM   #22
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The rod is long enough on an OS to put the piston in backwards and still run. Real easy to check. Just look through the exhaust port and turn the motor over by hand. If you can see under the piston and see the rod at top dead center, it's backwards. If all you see is the piston skirt, it's fine.
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Old 08-03-2008, 11:32 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
The rod is long enough on an OS to put the piston in backwards and still run. Real easy to check. Just look through the exhaust port and turn the motor over by hand. If you can see under the piston and see the rod at top dead center, it's backwards. If all you see is the piston skirt, it's fine.
WTG Wingracer. You nailed it. Thanks to everyone that was trying to help. I was so frustrated that both my vspecs were not running.

I reinstalled the piston like wingracer guessed was the problem, and both motors run awsome now.

What a good lesson learned. Yes a motor will still run with piston in backwards. Yes the vspec's piston will still clear the crank even while backwards.

thanks again guys
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Old 08-03-2008, 12:29 PM   #24
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I have a similar problem with the same engine. I've run about a gallon through the motor so far. HSN is set just fine. However I can't get the car to idle where I can place it on the ground and the clutch not engage and move the car. Help.

Pete
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Old 08-03-2008, 12:31 PM   #25
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Sounds to me like the piston/rod assembly was installed backwards !! There is a front and back to the piston !! If you put it in backwards it will still run but only at a higher speed, hence the raw fuel issue, the skirt of the piston is not sealing the exhaust port so the crank pressure is pushing the fuel into the pipe that is needed to keep the engine running at low speed. take a look into your exhaust port and watch the piston as you rotate it to the top if you see into the bore after it has reached the top then you have an issue.
The rod and piston on the OS may not let you see inside because of the length of the piston ,pull off the back cover and look in at the piston.
If the long skirt is on the carb side ,it's in wrong.
Seems I had said this back in the beginning
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Old 08-03-2008, 12:51 PM   #26
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Quote:
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Seems I had said this back in the beginning

HOLY CRAP, I cant believe i missed that post. Geez i feel a little dumb. Thanks for posting that, sorry i missed it
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Old 08-04-2008, 12:20 AM   #27
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Sorry Newb here, in setting the idle screw when you say back the screw out, does it mean that I have to turn it counter clockwise or clockwise? Would the idle screw fall off if i back out to much?



Quote:
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Check the engine for leaks, and cracks.. The V spec cases have been known to crack on the bottom. If you have no leaks or cracks.. Reset all the needles to.. HSN: Flush
LSN: Flush
Idle : Back the screw out while pushing the slide in with your finger, when the slide is JUST FULLY CLOSED STOP>, now go in 1-1/2 turn.

Now re tune your engine without touching the IDLE.
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