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Old 07-28-2008, 04:43 PM   #16
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For the record, I used the rubber engine stopper head from my Losi tuning screwdriver.
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Old 08-01-2008, 09:45 PM   #17
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TRY INSTALLING THE SCREW BACK INTO THE END OF THE SHAFT WITHOUT THECLUTCH SHOES AND CLUTCH BELL....WITH YOUR DRIVER HOLDING THE SCREW TIGHT USE A OPEN END WRENCH TO TURN THE NUT
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Old 08-04-2008, 08:44 AM   #18
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I had the opposite problem at the track Saturday... (I was changing the flywheel and couldn't get it to hold the motor so it wouldn't rotate when tightening...) I opened a set of vice-grips just enough to clear the pins on the flywheel, sat the motor on it's backplate, and gave the vice grips a gentle tap with a very light hammer to "seat" the flywheel... then it held so I could tighten the nut. That might work in this case also, if you can't get one of those other methods to work or get the proper devices.
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Old 08-15-2008, 06:06 PM   #19
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I am having this exact same problem on my OS VS and Losi 8.

What's the best way to get the back plate off? The bolts come out fine but I am hesitant to try to pry off the back plate.
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Old 08-15-2008, 06:23 PM   #20
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Take a pair of channel locks and set them to the size of the backplate square. Then just pry it off easily, working the wrench back and forth and also rotating it. It shouldn't take much force at all. But don't even bother doing it that way...

Just take the manifold off and put two fat zip ties thru the exhaust port above the piston. Has the same effect and will stop the engine from rolling over. It will cut the zipties in half before it causes any damage to the piston or other parts.

Or like said above, fill above the piston with afterrun oil and that will work too. Or even yet you can shove some thing nylon string down the glow plug hole. All these different ways will lock the engine up without causing damage. Providing the clutchnut is not welded onto the crank and you use king kong force to try and break it loose. In which case the end of the crank would probably be the first thing to break anyways.
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Old 08-15-2008, 08:37 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBIRDOWNER86 View Post
TRY INSTALLING THE SCREW BACK INTO THE END OF THE SHAFT WITHOUT THECLUTCH SHOES AND CLUTCH BELL....WITH YOUR DRIVER HOLDING THE SCREW TIGHT USE A OPEN END WRENCH TO TURN THE NUT
This is typically not a good idea and should be a last resort.

I've seen people break the screws off in the end of the crank and not be able to get them out. I have also seen this fracture the crank where the screw was trying to pull itself in the crank and then it was ruined.
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Old 08-15-2008, 10:29 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by BAUSTIN View Post
ive ran into this, i just double up a zip tie and slide it in the exaust port to hold the piston....seems to work fine

next best thing to using a piece in the backplate.
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Old 08-16-2008, 01:49 PM   #23
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Thanks for the help....it worked.
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Old 08-17-2008, 01:05 AM   #24
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5 seconds under a propane torch and that locktite wont be a problem. be careful not to burn anything though!
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Old 08-17-2008, 01:26 AM   #25
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If the nut is getting to the end of the threads you need to ad shims between the crank and collet. Ofna has a nice clutch shim kit that has all sorts of shims in different sizes
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Old 08-18-2008, 09:57 PM   #26
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Before trying to re-install the flywheel nut, make sure to clean the threads of the crankshaft and nut. If there is dried loctite in there it will bind things up and sometimes prevent the nut from fully tightening.
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