Help me pick a engine for my Losi 8ight
#16
Andybody that starts a thread proposing using a pullstart is IMO one way or another not going to shell out the money for a decent mill, and will most likely end up with a paperweight no matter what anyone says. So we can suggest all the good this or that and ultimately he's more likely going to go where he can get the most bang for his initial buck regardless of the longterm, or even short term, ramifications.
#17
wow thanks guys for all the great info, I do have a novarossi P5 that came with my buggy but one side that mounts to the motor mount broke off but still hold it on there firm and I don't know if I should still use it that was and if I did I would want to put a new piston and sleeve just to be safe.
I really don't ever plan on racing my buggy so i wouldn't need a racing motor. I guess I just want to get a motor that has plenty enough of power in all ranges if that's even possible. Done the road if I ever do decide to race I can get a race motor
I would like to keep the price at $200 or under for now.
Here is a pic of the motor I have and the piece that is broke,
I really don't ever plan on racing my buggy so i wouldn't need a racing motor. I guess I just want to get a motor that has plenty enough of power in all ranges if that's even possible. Done the road if I ever do decide to race I can get a race motor
I would like to keep the price at $200 or under for now.
Here is a pic of the motor I have and the piece that is broke,
#18
Tech Apprentice
Motor for Losi 8ight Buggy
Learning to tune .21 size motors..
While the OS motors mentioned above/below are great motors, I would suggest a motor that can handle a learning curve. The OS motors cant handle getting hot very many times, but the RB Concept motors being made of harder material hold up very well as learning motors. They also make great race motors.
I suggest:
RB S5 L2G with a JP-3 pipe. This is a good race package at an economical price.
Expert level race motor:
RB WS73 L2G also works well with JP-3
You can get a good deal on many motors here:
http://www.airlandhobbies.com
While the OS motors mentioned above/below are great motors, I would suggest a motor that can handle a learning curve. The OS motors cant handle getting hot very many times, but the RB Concept motors being made of harder material hold up very well as learning motors. They also make great race motors.
I suggest:
RB S5 L2G with a JP-3 pipe. This is a good race package at an economical price.
Expert level race motor:
RB WS73 L2G also works well with JP-3
You can get a good deal on many motors here:
http://www.airlandhobbies.com
#19
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Andybody that starts a thread proposing using a pullstart is IMO one way or another not going to shell out the money for a decent mill, and will most likely end up with a paperweight no matter what anyone says. So we can suggest all the good this or that and ultimately he's more likely going to go where he can get the most bang for his initial buck regardless of the longterm, or even short term, ramifications.
#20
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
P5 is an excellent engine. Probably no reason to get a new piston/sleeve unless that one's been scarred or has been pinched already several times. Having it squeezed is about $20 plus shipping. You might be able to find someone with a crankcase for it, or I've seen wonders worked with JB Weld. Might hold, might not. That's a Novarossi, but a Rex or Top crankcase should work. P5 has had at least 2 crankcase versions though so you'd need the right size one if you replace. If you can have the p/s squeezed and either find a used crankcase or repair that one and get it running it's probably worth it. If the bearings are bad or it needs a new rod then probably just better off with a new engine.
BTW, is that an RD Logics pipe? I have one of those in a pit box somewhere.
BTW, is that an RD Logics pipe? I have one of those in a pit box somewhere.
#21
Andybody that starts a thread proposing using a pullstart is IMO one way or another not going to shell out the money for a decent mill, and will most likely end up with a paperweight no matter what anyone says. So we can suggest all the good this or that and ultimately he's more likely going to go where he can get the most bang for his initial buck regardless of the longterm, or even short term, ramifications.
Now if I decide to race I can always get a motor specific for that but in the mean time I just need one that I can have fun with and has plenty of power.
#23
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
To be honest with you, now I am a racer and since you said you wont race I say just get a Mach 427 off Ebay they come with a drill starter and will have all the power any BASHER will ever need. Dont spend hundreds of dollars on something that doesnt need to cost that much. But I will tell you this "unless there is something seriously wrong with you, the 1st time you go to a race track you will be hooked". And then you can spend $300++ on a mill. LOL And I know a few guys that race with that mill in their monster trucks.
#24
To be honest with you, now I am a racer and since you said you wont race I say just get a Mach 427 off Ebay they come with a drill starter and will have all the power any BASHER will ever need. Dont spend hundreds of dollars on something that doesnt need to cost that much. But I will tell you this "unless there is something seriously wrong with you, the 1st time you go to a race track you will be hooked". And then you can spend $300++ on a mill. LOL And I know a few guys that race with that mill in their monster trucks.
sounds interesting
#25
Trinity Ex-Tech .21 base motor for 299$ at Amainhobbies and get a box bump start good for both bashing around and racing yeah you can buy a cheep motor for like 130 $ with a pull start but why waist the money when you can kill 2 birds in one stone like the person above said once you race your gonna luv it and want to race more and more and these new trinity motors are lovely i have just over 2 gallons in mine and its beautiful from top to bottum with smooth power everywhere,check out the ex tech thread nothing but good news from all the ex-tech .21 versions from base to fully modded ,but whatever you decide have fun and good choice on vehicle losi to win the 08 worlds lol
#26
FWIW Harley, I currently run the GRP, MAX POWER M5B, and the ORION CRF...I recommended the Dynamite and Sportwerks line of engines because he mentioned a pull start type engine which means the OS VG or similar, I recommended a motor that I am more than confident that will feel his needs. I've seen too many of the Sportwerks and Dynamite motors at my local track run, for several gallon, to think they are a "piece of crap".
If the p5 has decent compression I would say fix that one first. Since it is the older P5 it is the case design that uses the 14x25.4x6 rear bearing. I would post up on the WTB thread that you are looking for an older style p5 case and I figure someone has one laying around that they will send you on the cheap. You may have to pick up a couple bearings, but the rear cost about 20 bucks and the front one (7x19x6) for about 15 (that is for TKO ceramics off of AMAIN). Then all you need is a starter box. I like the OFNA chrome top that was mentioned, but I don’t much like it with the 8ight. You need to do some modifications to make it work right. As much as I think the box is a piece of junk, the Losi box that is made for the 8ight might be your best bet since you have no experience with a bump box. It comes with the pegs already set up for the 8ight. What I don’t like about the box is the motors are on the weak side. The only thing you have to keep in mind is when you break in a new motor always use a heat gun, it will not only take stress off the engine, but it will also save your starter box motors.
If you do decide to rebuild the p5 and have any questions about getting it apart/rebuilding or questions in general shoot me a PM or email.
If the p5 has decent compression I would say fix that one first. Since it is the older P5 it is the case design that uses the 14x25.4x6 rear bearing. I would post up on the WTB thread that you are looking for an older style p5 case and I figure someone has one laying around that they will send you on the cheap. You may have to pick up a couple bearings, but the rear cost about 20 bucks and the front one (7x19x6) for about 15 (that is for TKO ceramics off of AMAIN). Then all you need is a starter box. I like the OFNA chrome top that was mentioned, but I don’t much like it with the 8ight. You need to do some modifications to make it work right. As much as I think the box is a piece of junk, the Losi box that is made for the 8ight might be your best bet since you have no experience with a bump box. It comes with the pegs already set up for the 8ight. What I don’t like about the box is the motors are on the weak side. The only thing you have to keep in mind is when you break in a new motor always use a heat gun, it will not only take stress off the engine, but it will also save your starter box motors.
If you do decide to rebuild the p5 and have any questions about getting it apart/rebuilding or questions in general shoot me a PM or email.