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Old 07-13-2008, 01:53 PM   #1
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Default break-in

I'm sure this has been asked in the past, if it has, I couldn't find the thread so I'll post a new one. I know there is a lot of engine break in theories out there and I was hoping some of you could post what you feel is the best break in method. Thanks guys/gals.
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Old 07-13-2008, 02:47 PM   #2
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I dont know if this is the best, but its what I do.

first 2 tanks, kind of rich and let it idle. up to 10% throttle.

second tank, dont change settings, leave it kinda rich, then drive it around slowly at no more than 25% throtle.

4th and 5th tank, drive it at no more than 50% throttle.

6th tank, drive it at arund 75% throtle.

7th tank, drive it at 100% throttle, but still be easy on it. short WOT blips on the trigger.

10+ you should be able to do WOT for 3 or 4 second bursts, by this time you can lean it out a little and start to adjust the engine.

Im missing the part where you let it cool down in between tanks.. or are you not supposed to let it cool between tanks? thats the only part im not 100% sure about.


someone please correct me if im wrong on any of this, im getting a new engine very soon and am going to break it in like this, wouldnt want to do anything wrong.

thanks
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:03 PM   #3
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Heat cycle is where you let it cool down between tanks. Some do it, some don't bother.
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:04 PM   #4
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just make sure to keep engine temps above 200 degrees F to properly seat the piston and sleeve.
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:06 PM   #5
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Default Break In

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trail Bruizer View Post
I'm sure this has been asked in the past, if it has, I couldn't find the thread so I'll post a new one. I know there is a lot of engine break in theories out there and I was hoping some of you could post what you feel is the best break in method. Thanks guys/gals.


Recommended Break-in Method:
1) Spend 1 whole tank of fuel idling on the starter box.
2) Take the car to a track or parking lot and spend 1/4 of a gallon of fuel running at a temperature of no more than 200 degrees farenheit, without going more than 50% on the throttle.
3) After a 1/4 of a gallon of fuel you can close the needle a bit to increase temperature but no more than 220 degrees farenheit for another 1/4 of a gallon of fuel.
4) After you have spent 1/2 a gallon of fuel breaking it in, your engine is ready to race. At this time your engine is ready to race at temperatures between 230-250 degrees farenheit, in which you will find the power that you need, and still make it endure for many races more to come!
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:09 PM   #6
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f you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory engine settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

what you can do to get the temps up is wrap the cooling head with an old sock and or some aluminum foil. trick is to heat cycle...not idle
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Old 07-13-2008, 05:11 PM   #7
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Thanks for the tips so far! Lets keep a few more coming a see whats the most popular. I know the break in is the most important part of the engines life.
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Old 07-13-2008, 05:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imaxx21 View Post
f you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory engine settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

what you can do to get the temps up is wrap the cooling head with an old sock and or some aluminum foil. trick is to heat cycle...not idle
Lots of very good info in this post. I think this will be the way I break in my next engine.
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Old 07-13-2008, 07:02 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imaxx21 View Post
f you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory engine settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

what you can do to get the temps up is wrap the cooling head with an old sock and or some aluminum foil. trick is to heat cycle...not idle
I've just gotten back into RC for about 1 year noe after about 4 years off and I found this proceedure online and have been using it for the last 2-3 engines and love it. It does'nt take as long, saves alot of high priced fuel, and seems to be making engines last. Another tip is to not rev the engine like crazy to warm it up once you have broken it in. The piston sleeve fit is tighter on cold engine and wears faster at 30-40K RPMs than blipping throttle. Just my opinion.
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Old 07-13-2008, 07:36 PM   #10
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Or you can just follow the manufactors instructions.
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Old 07-13-2008, 07:43 PM   #11
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There are a million variations but there is only one important thing to remember, RUN IT AT OR NEAR RACE TEMPS. If you are running the motor cold you are wearing it out. Some people see me breaking a motor in at the track and think I'm doing the old idle a few tanks through it technique. In fact I have the idle set very high and I adjust the idle speed and HSN to keep the temp well over 200, generally between 210-240. After a couple tanks of this I will put it on the track and run it only slightly rich and try to keep it a bit under max RPM while still maintaining good temps.
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Old 07-13-2008, 07:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
There are a million variations but there is only one important thing to remember, RUN IT AT OR NEAR RACE TEMPS. If you are running the motor cold you are wearing it out. Some people see me breaking a motor in at the track and think I'm doing the old idle a few tanks through it technique. In fact I have the idle set very high and I adjust the idle speed and HSN to keep the temp well over 200, generally between 210-240. After a couple tanks of this I will put it on the track and run it only slightly rich and try to keep it a bit under max RPM while still maintaining good temps.

I do the same kind or break-in, accept I add oil to the fuel or get low nitro/high oil content fuel. Gives you enough lube while leaning it out for temps.
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Old 07-13-2008, 09:07 PM   #13
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One important thing is missing from the above suggestions. Use a heat gun to pre-heat the engine to 160+f (the $15 ones for applying monokote to airplane models works great). If you do this you will find the engine will start very easily and not get stuck at TDC while you're trying to get it going the first couple of times. That's just the convenience though, the real benefit is that it relieves the con rod and bearings of the beating that a brand new, tight piston/sleeve puts on them the first couple of runs. Also, wrap the head in tin foil. This will allow you to easily achieve the 200+f temps that you are looking for while still running the engine rich, thus passing lots of oil through the engine, further protecting the bearings, con rod bushings and piston.
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Old 07-13-2008, 09:09 PM   #14
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Oops, yes that is a must.
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Old 07-14-2008, 08:42 AM   #15
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this is the break in procedures i have been using for a long time and has been great:

http://www.momentum-rc.com/joom/inde...news&Itemid=50
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