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Old 07-14-2008, 09:05 AM   #16
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This is just the info I was looking for. I like the idea of a fast break in, especially if it helps maintain compression and power for a long time. I think I did a halfway decent job on my Thunderquake as it still feels like it has great compression, but I'm always open to new ideas.

Can someone post up a link to an oil additive to the fuel or what kind of oil to get if its a non-R/C specific off the shelf item?
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Old 07-14-2008, 09:39 AM   #17
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I personally like to add Sig castor oil to the fuel if its race blend (11% or less oil) or I run some Omega 10% fuel for like the first few tanks or up to 1/2 gallon.
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Old 07-14-2008, 09:57 AM   #18
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Thanks.

How much do you add? I noticed it said on Sig's website 5oz per gallon to bump the oil 3%. So i figure that will be 1.25oz for a quart for a 3% boost.
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Old 07-14-2008, 01:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
One important thing is missing from the above suggestions. Use a heat gun to pre-heat the engine to 160+f (the $15 ones for applying monokote to airplane models works great). If you do this you will find the engine will start very easily and not get stuck at TDC while you're trying to get it going the first couple of times. That's just the convenience though, the real benefit is that it relieves the con rod and bearings of the beating that a brand new, tight piston/sleeve puts on them the first couple of runs. Also, wrap the head in tin foil. This will allow you to easily achieve the 200+f temps that you are looking for while still running the engine rich, thus passing lots of oil through the engine, further protecting the bearings, con rod bushings and piston.
yes, youre right, I cant believe everyone forgot to mention that!

I always heat it up with a hairdryer (approx 130f).
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Old 07-14-2008, 06:36 PM   #20
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i dont add anything to my fuel, i break in all my mills using the same exact fuel i race with.
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Old 07-17-2008, 09:57 AM   #21
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Is there an easy way to tell when the piston is at the bottom of the stroke without pulling the glow plug?
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Old 07-17-2008, 10:01 AM   #22
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turn the flywheel lock to lock and return to the middle
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Old 07-17-2008, 10:04 AM   #23
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<---brain fart

that makes sense
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Old 07-17-2008, 11:56 AM   #24
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When you get it to BDC them mark the flywheel with a sharpie or something. Helps find it later. I do that on my new mills before I mount them.
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Old 07-17-2008, 10:50 PM   #25
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I idle one tank and then run 1/2 gallon really rich infront of my house or in a big parking lot. I start at a 1/4 throttle and work my way up to almost full throttle also leaning it out little by little. When Im done its about 90% race tuned.

Ever since doing it this way my motors have all lasted atleast 9.5-10 gallons before loosing pinch.
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Old 07-18-2008, 01:24 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new to rc cars View Post
I dont know if this is the best, but its what I do.

first 2 tanks, kind of rich and let it idle. up to 10% throttle.

second tank, dont change settings, leave it kinda rich, then drive it around slowly at no more than 25% throtle.

4th and 5th tank, drive it at no more than 50% throttle.

6th tank, drive it at arund 75% throtle.

7th tank, drive it at 100% throttle, but still be easy on it. short WOT blips on the trigger.

10+ you should be able to do WOT for 3 or 4 second bursts, by this time you can lean it out a little and start to adjust the engine.

Im missing the part where you let it cool down in between tanks.. or are you not supposed to let it cool between tanks? thats the only part im not 100% sure about.


someone please correct me if im wrong on any of this, im getting a new engine very soon and am going to break it in like this, wouldnt want to do anything wrong.

thanks
+1, thats what i did, motor screams
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