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Old 07-08-2008, 08:22 PM   #16
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I'm a big fan of that OFNA twin motor "Truggy" box. It has a crap load of power. I went to the Common Sense 3850mAh 8c battery. I'm still not sold on it being an 8c in a starter box but we'll see what happens.

On the servo's, Ihad an Ace 1015 in my buggies for 2.5 years. I pulled it out strictly due to mileage on it and put it in my Axial Crawler. Still going strong.
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Old 07-09-2008, 07:10 AM   #17
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Thanks to everyone for your advice. I definitely feel like I know what to get now and will be ordering the parts that you have recommended. I plan to be racing at the new ARC in Temecula in the next few weeks. If there is anything else I should know, please post it.
Thanks
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Old 07-09-2008, 08:41 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by revrace View Post
Thanks to everyone for your advice. I definitely feel like I know what to get now and will be ordering the parts that you have recommended. I plan to be racing at the new ARC in Temecula in the next few weeks. If there is anything else I should know, please post it.
Thanks

Let me know how that track is. I race at Revelation.
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Old 07-09-2008, 10:44 AM   #19
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Let me know how that track is. I race at Revelation.
I have never been to Revelation, but I have been around several of the top electric off-road tracks from back in the day (The old Socal, MnM, Ranch Pit Shop, etc.) I went to ARC on Saturday just to watch. This is definitely one of the best, if not the best facilities I have seen.
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Old 07-09-2008, 11:59 AM   #20
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I have never been to Revelation, but I have been around several of the top electric off-road tracks from back in the day (The old Socal, MnM, Ranch Pit Shop, etc.) I went to ARC on Saturday just to watch. This is definitely one of the best, if not the best facilities I have seen.

Hmmm I used to race at Ranch and MnM a lot.
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Old 07-09-2008, 02:13 PM   #21
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The updated tank and service pack are the top of my list.
I just pickedup a used FTRC8. It camewith the updated tank. Is there anyway to distinguish the updated parts.
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Old 07-09-2008, 02:45 PM   #22
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Aside from the lower arms, no you can't really tell. The new lower front arms have the R and L markings near the droop screw holes. The old arms have the markings near the lower shock mount.
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Old 07-09-2008, 02:52 PM   #23
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Pull the D plate mounting screws out and measure them. If they're 40mm long end-to-end, then the car probably hasn't gotten the service pack installed. They're 45mm end-to-end, then it's probably got the new parts. Another way to tell is if the hinge pin retainer screws in the D plate have washers on them.

Neither of these techniques are guaranteed, but chance are good that they indicate the state of the car.

Another trick: Dremel the area between the flywheel opening and recess for the clutch bell in the chassis so that ridge is gone. That will help prevent the clutch bell from crashing into the chassis. Even if it does crash, no one I've heard of has ever reported any problems from it happening. I didn't have any problems when my car was doing it either.

I wouldn't recommend aluminum one piece chassis braces, for what it's worth. If you want a one piece brace, use the RTR braces instead since they will still flex.
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Old 07-09-2008, 02:57 PM   #24
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Pull the D plate mounting screws out and measure them. If they're 40mm long end-to-end, then the car probably hasn't gotten the service pack installed. They're 45mm end-to-end, then it's probably got the new parts. Another way to tell is if the hinge pin retainer screws in the D plate have washers on them.

Neither of these techniques are guaranteed, but chance are good that they indicate the state of the car.
Good info. I got my car used, and it had the longer screws and washers in the B and D plates, but had the older arms - kinda odd.


The car still flexes a good amount with the solid alumnium braces.
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Old 07-09-2008, 08:33 PM   #25
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Not really that odd. Only parts I put on from service pack was the D-plate and the longer screws. The rest of the stuff I figured I'd leave until it broke. Nothing has broken so far and it's been run alot. I did put the ae aluminum top plate on though. I'm sure alot of guys figured the same thing, run the arms and whatever until they break.
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Old 07-09-2008, 08:45 PM   #26
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I think I had the original plates. When I went through my car the A and B plates were slightly bent.

I got the service pack and tank from AE and replaced the plates, and the upper and lower arms.

I put the alumnium top plate on before I even ran the car, so that has never been an issue.
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Old 07-13-2008, 08:27 PM   #27
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Okay....so I have made several purchases....RC8, GRP Promo Kit Engine, King Headz parts, aluminum galore. I haven't gotten the starter box or servos. How are the Associated starter boxes?? Also, there was no mension of Airtronics servos. Is there any disadvantage to any of these? I can get pretty good deals on both, that is why I am asking. Thanks in advance
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:55 PM   #28
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You are gonna get a million answers on servos and starter boxes. Any name brand of each will work just fine. Just be very careful setting end points so you don't burn up the servos.
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