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Old 07-02-2008, 08:35 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by largeorangefont View Post
$47 for pipe and header. It is actually a really good all around pipe.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4637

For the same RPM range pipe look at the Dynamite 053... in the same price range. It has a reinforced stinger unlike the TTR.

I used to run a JP-1 on my Werks B7 pro, and that motor was just STUPID with the JP-1, like having an on-off switch for a throttle. The 053 smoothed it out a lot.

A-main has them for less than $50.
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Old 07-02-2008, 08:36 AM   #17
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I am in no way new to RC, I raced 1/8th scale buggy for quite a while. I just got a Mugen roller from a friend. I need shocks and an exhaust pipe/header. What is a cheap option? I am not trying to get a crazy good pipe set up.
Thanks
I THINK the Jammin' SBB shocks will fit... although the Mugen shocks are great for small-bores. You can pick up the Jammin' SBB shocks cheap on Ebay. You'll need the stand-offs too for clearance!

Which Mugen did you get? The MBX5/MBX5 ProSpec is a great car, but tends to push. (Which is why I got rid of mine.) If you got the ProSpec, replace the front chassis brace with the regular one to give it a little more flex and a little more front bite. Also get the MBX5R ackerman and front hingepin holder, it changes the geometry a bit and makes it steer better. Either get the MBX5R knuckles, or dremel the existing ones for more steering throw- careful, just a little is all it takes! Too much will weaken them and the balls can pull through.

Here's a good place to start on setup for the Mugen:

Stock pistons, grey springs (assuming you're using the Mugen shocks!) 45 front 35 rear shock fluid, 5-5-2 or 5-7-2 (front-center-rear, with 7 making the car more aggressive) 2.5 degree rear toe plate, 4 degrees (yes, **4**!!) camber in the rear, 2.5 to 3 degrees camber in the front, 2 degrees front toe-out. Put the lightest front swaybar on it you can get your hands on, and a heavy rear bar. (I liked my car with NO front swaybar! That was the only way I could make it turn to suit me! Unfortunately that makes it get "upset" in the rough too easily...)

If you get the Jammin' SBBs run silver springs, 30 front shock oil 25 rear as a starting point.
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Unsponsored, but I use/recommend: XRay XB9, Alpha A852, Dynamite 053, Airtronics M11, Hitec 5955TG & 7955TG, ABEC 35 clutch and chassis bearings, PTRCRacing shock and diff fluids, Ready Rollers ceramic engine bearings. ** Team Terribles Region 9 coordinator. ** JOIN TEAM TERRIBLES! All racers welcome! PM me for details.

Last edited by DOMIT; 07-02-2008 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 07-02-2008, 08:40 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by jpalessi View Post
Check out The TQ Racing SX8! Very afordable, and very competitive!
Www.tqracing.net

Very "Kyosho-ish" car, tons of steering. The best of the "new" manufacturers by far!
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Old 07-02-2008, 08:50 AM   #19
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I forget which Mugen it is....I know it is the very top of the line one and has the all carbon fiber radio tray and braces. It has a lot of Feroni (sp?) upgrades as well.

Thanks for all the set up tips! I hopefully I can get it running before I leave for Japan next week So yea I need: shocks, starter box, header and exhaust.
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Old 07-02-2008, 08:59 AM   #20
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I forget which Mugen it is....I know it is the very top of the line one and has the all carbon fiber radio tray and braces. It has a lot of Feroni (sp?) upgrades as well.

Thanks for all the set up tips! I hopefully I can get it running before I leave for Japan next week So yea I need: shocks, starter box, header and exhaust.
Just to reiterate: There is absolutely, positively NOTHING wrong with the stock Mugen shocks... they're great, even if they aren't "Big Bores." If you want to put big bores on there, get the Jammin ones, but be prepared to experiment a bit to make them fit.

The MBX5R has taller shock towers, longer shocks, and different upper front arms (and a plethora of other small changes) the MBX5 ProSpec has everything you mentioned... are the chassis braces metal or are they a plastic-with-metal-turnbuckle arrangement? All of them use carbon... so you can't tell there. Metal chassis braces means either an MBX5 ProSpec or R, unless they are "aftermarket" parts like Fioroni. You shouldn't run the front metal brace though.

Make sure it isn't an MBX5R though, if you want to do Big Bores... the Jammin ones will be too short. If it is an R, and you want Big Bores, you'll need to buy Kyo$ho $uper Big Bore$.
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Old 07-02-2008, 09:10 AM   #21
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The Jammin SBBs aren't too short for the MBX5R. The shocks on there are the same they use for the truggy and I know someone who just put the Jammin shocks on his Mugen truggy and his shocks are the same length as they were with the stock shocks. You just have to use the long rod ends in the rear, which the shocks come with.
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Old 07-02-2008, 09:12 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by DOMIT View Post
Just to reiterate: There is absolutely, positively NOTHING wrong with the stock Mugen shocks... they're great, even if they aren't "Big Bores." If you want to put big bores on there, get the Jammin ones, but be prepared to experiment a bit to make them fit.

The MBX5R has taller shock towers, longer shocks, and different upper front arms (and a plethora of other small changes) the MBX5 ProSpec has everything you mentioned... are the chassis braces metal or are they a plastic-with-metal-turnbuckle arrangement? All of them use carbon... so you can't tell there. Metal chassis braces means either an MBX5 ProSpec or R, unless they are "aftermarket" parts like Fioroni. You shouldn't run the front metal brace though.

Make sure it isn't an MBX5R though, if you want to do Big Bores... the Jammin ones will be too short. If it is an R, and you want Big Bores, you'll need to buy Kyo$ho $uper Big Bore$.
haha if I ever have any questions I am going straight to you! It has the metal chassis braces, I'll get pics of it later tonight so you can check it out.
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Old 07-02-2008, 09:59 AM   #23
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[QUOTE=Jim Bob;4593322]EDIT:
I was originally looking for a buggy, I got one in the time I posted this thread (MUGEN). So now I need a cheap exhaust set up, starter box and shocks![/QUOTE/]

here are some easy on the pocket book choices

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4636

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4636
as far as the shockes are concerned the kit shockes are outstanding!!

kit set ups and grey springs aswell...............
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Old 07-02-2008, 10:02 AM   #24
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oops ! here is the starter box i was trying to paste!

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2490
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Old 07-02-2008, 11:51 AM   #25
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Top-end pipe (high RPM) :

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/9006

The pipe I run: (Mid range pipe)

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/9004

Low end (low rpm torque) pipe:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/9002

The polished finish is easy to clean up, and the reinforced stinger makes it durable. These include the "header" or "manifold."

Starter box:

I use a box like the one the other guy mentioned... but it is a little harder to use than one like this:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5429

THAT box has enough power to break in the tightest motors, is very reliable, easy to set up, and will fit just about anything. It is easier to use than the other one he posted. It IS bigger (takes more room to store and haul) and heavier (don't be a wimp! lol) but that box is really good, and fairly inexpensive.
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Old 07-03-2008, 09:34 AM   #26
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Thanks for all the help guys, I got mugen shocks and some shitty pipe. Just gonna try and get it running this weekend and get the nice stuff after my vacation.
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Old 07-03-2008, 12:06 PM   #27
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Thanks for all the help guys, I got mugen shocks and some shitty pipe. Just gonna try and get it running this weekend and get the nice stuff after my vacation.
I wouldn't worry about getting different shocks if you have the Mugen ones. They're great shocks, even if they aren't quite as big as the Jammin ones or whatever. Run the grey springs, and 45 front 35 rear shock oil for a good starting setup. Tune to suit from there. As for "some shitty pipe," I wouldn't worry TOO much... as long as it works ok it's all good.

Welcome to the world of buggies... you now have WAY more power than you need, and a lot less traction than you are used to. Have fun!
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Unsponsored, but I use/recommend: XRay XB9, Alpha A852, Dynamite 053, Airtronics M11, Hitec 5955TG & 7955TG, ABEC 35 clutch and chassis bearings, PTRCRacing shock and diff fluids, Ready Rollers ceramic engine bearings. ** Team Terribles Region 9 coordinator. ** JOIN TEAM TERRIBLES! All racers welcome! PM me for details.
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Old 07-04-2008, 07:30 PM   #28
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Old 07-05-2008, 12:30 AM   #29
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looks like MBX5 not the 5R
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Old 07-05-2008, 05:03 AM   #30
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That looks like a MBX5 Prospec, not an R. Also, it looks like the steering servo link should be moved up a hole or two on the servo horn.

As for shocks, check the bladders and seals. THh bladders will stretch when they are worn out and make bleeding them a PITA!
The MBX5R steering ass'y is a good option to use also. The servo saver & spring are reversed, so the steering arm moves not the ackerman plate itself.
IMO, if you going to Japan, get the parts over there. The should be cheaper thna here and you should find more option parts also.
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