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Old 06-17-2008, 10:13 AM   #31
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i have 2 3000 venoms in my ae box and i love it.. once i rewired the box with good wire and deans plugs its an animal!
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Old 06-17-2008, 11:04 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by rcrevolution View Post
i looked at the box/chassis, and it does it a little, but there really is no alignment on this box to make it not hit... the hole on the chassis is too tiny for it.

Then its time to get out the Dremel tool and cut a 45 degree angle to the bottom of the chassis around the hole.

The best way to set up a starter box is to remove the motor, line up the hole over the wheel, lock in the pegs so placement is automatic and idiot proof (we are all subject to be idiots when the clock is ticking for the start of the next heat and the engine flames out), and then press the chassis as far down on the box as it will go..........if the wheel hits the chassis make the hole larger.

This is the cure for most starter box problems. The wheel scrubbing on the chassis is the death of most starter boxes.

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Old 06-17-2008, 11:31 AM   #33
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besides being SOOO much lighrer what does 14.8V do for me? my 12v gel pack registers 14.6v on a volt meter....
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Old 06-17-2008, 11:33 AM   #34
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the lipo will actually charge to 16.8, plus the lipo will allow the motor to pull more amps.
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Old 06-17-2008, 11:41 AM   #35
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the lipo will actually charge to 16.8, plus the lipo will allow the motor to pull more amps.
+1

rcrevolution, for what it is worth I havent had to dremel my hyper 8.5 chassis and the starter box wheel doesnt hit the chassis at all. The one I use for my hyper 8.5 is the one I gave the link to earlier, which I believe should be the same dimensions as your duratrax box so I would strongly encourage you to work with the alignment adjustments more before dremeling the chassis. And to answer your earlier question....

If you have 2 3600 stick packs and they are still good packs(hold a charge) those should last you all the way through your raceday if the chassis is lined up and engine is heated.
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Old 06-17-2008, 01:28 PM   #36
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They where never charged/used so they should still be good, they are 3600mah I bought to use in the ez start wand and never did.

also once I get a few tanks (1/2 a gallon) through the engine will I still need to heat it up for this box?

the box will turn the engine over but alot of times it just grinds and doesn't, Im sure its hitting the chassis but I can't get this lined up right, got any tips for lining it up


EDIT: I just checked them they are 3300mah and 7.2v each so that would be 14.4V is that enough for a starter box? Also 2 7.2V packs end up weighing as much as a 12V gel, lol

Last edited by rcrevolution; 06-17-2008 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 06-17-2008, 02:53 PM   #37
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I won't be able to go up now, until Sunday. But Les will help out I'm sure...or whoever else is there if you go up tomorrow.
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Old 06-17-2008, 03:19 PM   #38
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Well I let the battery charge and I put in the new wheel that I got.

I think its more of an alingment issue than anything, because I can get this engine to turn over even with the plug in it, just sometimes. and alot of times I dont even see the flywheel spinning I check it with my finger and its frozen solid.
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Old 06-17-2008, 03:58 PM   #39
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to lign up the starter box remove your motor from the chassis. Put the chassis on the box and make sure the wheel is sticking through the flywheel hole. Start the starter box and spin it up to make sure it not touching the chassis at all. Spin it for about 20secs then have a good look for rubber shavings. if you don't find any, mark some lines around the 4 corners of the chassis onto the starter box so you can lign it up easy with the motor installed. this is the only way to do it properly, removing the motor i mean..

once you have the starter box ligned up and marked out 2x 3000 7.4v will be plenty enough and be useful all day.

Use a flat blade screw driver to turn the flywheel til its at Bottom Dead Center where it can spin freely til in hits the pinch zone. Put the wheel in the middle of that free turning space.

When trying the start the box, if it gets stuck do not try to start it again on the box, first use the screw driver to put it in that free'ed up zone first then try again..

heat the crank case more so then the head to about 210f-220f and loosen the glow plug just a little bit. basically just break the seal.
prime the motor! by pushing the motor down on the starter while blocking the exhaust for about 2secs. don't go over board or you will flood it...

make sure your idle gap is set correct (0.75-1.00mm) depending on your motor and then use you radio to put a little throttle trim in to make the start a bit easier.

once you have done this it should start fairly easy. heat the engine case up for the first 5-6 starts and do not let it run out of nitro until after 10 or more tanks!
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Old 06-17-2008, 04:29 PM   #40
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I only have 2 3300 packs BUT they are 7.2v not 7.4v, will that .4v make a difference?
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Old 06-17-2008, 04:50 PM   #41
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Couple of things to do:

1) Add a thin copper shim on the engine to reduce compression a bit and make break in easier
2) Loosen the plug 1/2 turn or so, get it fired up, then tighten it back down
3) Get a 14.8 V lipo battery..a lot more ass to start the engine
4) Get the Ofna Truggy Box with a 14.8V Lipo and you can start any engine out there...it spins my new Novas and GRP's over like nothing
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Old 06-17-2008, 04:51 PM   #42
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i meant to say 7.2v so no they will work fine.
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Old 06-17-2008, 06:49 PM   #43
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I just noticed NO ONE sells glow plug copper washers by themselves... what gives?
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Old 06-17-2008, 07:08 PM   #44
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thats not the copper shim he was referring to..


have you tried a heat gun?
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Old 06-17-2008, 07:17 PM   #45
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You don't need 2 washers, just crack the plug loose 1/4 turn or so until the engine is running. Then tighten the plug after the engine runs for a few seconds and gets some heat in it. Getting a new box, or more voltage in your will not solve your problem.

Here is how to do it. You don't need a new box, just make sure your box is fully charged. You don't need a heat gun either.

Take the plug out, make sure the engine is a BDC. Put the car on the box and try to start the car with no plug in it. Let the engine run on the box for 10-15 seconds. The engine may bind, and if so pop it over TDC with a flat head screwdriver on the flywheel. Once you get the engine to spin for 10-15 seconds straight, put the plug in and do not tighten it all the way.

The engine should fire or show signs of life when you try to start it. It will stall at TDC, and when it does, pop it over TDC with your screwdriver and place the engine at BDC and start it again. When the engine gets a bit of heat in it, or runs for a few seconds straight, tighten the plug. Eventually it will idle for you and you can begin break in.

I've dont this on a couple hundred motors. It works every time, with any decent starter box with a good charge. This process generally take me about 10 minutes to get the engine to a point where it will sit and idle.
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