brake problems
 

my brother's buggy keeps shutting off everytime he puts the brakes on, what is causing this and what can he do to fix it?

iim having brake problems also

when i hit the brakes they dont grab as tight as they used to so im getting a new oair of disc brakes

It would help if could tell us what make and model the buggy was there might be some people here with the same buggy .Most buggys are the same I know but it would help :D

This should be a simple fix. It sounds as if you have the idle gap on your engines carburetor set to small. Somewhere on the carb, usually at the base on the front, there is a screw that controls the idle gap. Turn the screw in to increase the gap along with idle speed, and if you turn the screw out you get the opposite effect. Hope this helps.

the buggy is an Exceed RC 1/10

I will tell him to try to find that idle screw, the only thing that confuses me is that it is only recently, after his suspension arm broke, that he has been having troubles with the buggy

So this is a 1/10th nitro two wheel drive ?

no it is 4wd im sorry

he just tried what you suggested and it didn't help, it still shuts off when the brake is put on

either he has adjusted the wrong screw or hasn't adjusted it enough.

tell him to take off the air filter, hold the throttle closed by finger. (just push on the slide where it normally opens up)

when holding the slide closed gently, adjust the idle speed screw and you should see the idle gap increasing. tell him to set the gap at 1mm at the widdest point..

then test it out :)

once the idle is set correctly you can then adjust the bottom end to stop over fueling and to give you a good clean take off with good power...

which screw is it that he should be adjusting, the idle mixture or idle adjusting screw

we don't see the gap you are talking about, the only gap we see is from the one that lets air into the carb and that doesn't move when the idle adjusting screw is turned

Hi, refer to below link on the pic where the screw is located.

http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...0.12%20engines

Remember every time you make an adjustment to the idle screw, you retune the low end. They work together. If you raise the idle, richen the mixture. If you lower the idle, lean the mixture. It's a balancing act like a set of scales. Most people only do one or the other and that's why they can't get their engine to run worth a flip.

When starting to tune......... Generally you want to richen the low end a bit to where it seems reasonable, if it idles too high it can affect your overall temps. How it takes off means nothing when you start the tuning process.

Run the vehicle three hard full throttle passes of about 150 feet each and come back and temp the engine. It doesn't matter if it takes off slow, as long as it gets up to full speed and temps around 220 after three drag style runs. Adjust accordingly to hit that mark.

Once you are done with that, you want to make sure that when you apply the brakes that your idle screw is in enough to keep it from choking out. Then start adjusting your low end mixture. If the vehicle takes off slowly, lean the low end, BUT make sure to adjust the idle screw down if the car idles up higher than normal. Any time your engine idles up when you adjust the low end, you compensate by adjusting the idle screw down.

A lot of people adjust the idle screw for minimum gap and walk away...... there is absolutely no way to tune the low end under these circumstances. The idle screw is not there to keep your engine set at one idle point, it is there to keep your engine running depending on the LOW END mixture setting. Temps, humidity, elevation and several other factors effect this. There is no "one setting" on an idle screw. Most of the time when a engine revs up when you stop it generally is low needle is lean. If never idles down then it is idled to high.

Newb mistakes:

- tuning the high end for temps when the low end mixture is too lean and causing the problem.
- setting the idle screw by measurement rather than engine conditions
- tuning the low end mixture and not retuning the idle screw at the same time.

This will get your engine NEARLY perfect, but once you have this as a base setting you can make minor changes that affect performance without fearing the temps. Between 220 and 260 don't tune for temp, tune for performance, but be weary of going over 260 as there are limitations of the components that make up the engine above 260.

Sounds like a bad clutch bell bearing to me?

Clutch does not affect brake. If it idles without the brake the clutch is already spinning at about the same RPM or within a reasonably close range. if closing the carb causes the problem, it's an easy pinpoint.

A broken clutch shoe spring will do the same thing. The clutch is always engaged, so when you hit the brakes it stops the rotation of the crank shaft and kills the engine.