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Old 05-20-2008, 11:32 PM   #1
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Default No brakes.

On my old hyper 7 I never had a whole lot of braking power. With my radio set at its highest settings, it was barely enough to slow the car down, locking up the tires is only a dream. I always assumed the brake system on the car was just weak. I just purchased a Kyosho 777 WC with the ferodo brake pads on it. And yet again with radio at full throw my brakes still barely slow the car. Is a Z590 servo just not enough torque for the brakes???? I always assumed 90 ounces would be fine for brakeing. I have a airtronics 357 for steering and I intend on getting a faster and stronger servo for the throttle/brake in the future, but I am just wondering if the servo is the problem or is it something else?
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HPI Savage X SS, Axial .28, Hitec 5645 Steering servo
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Old 05-21-2008, 04:13 AM   #2
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On my old hyper 7 I never had a whole lot of braking power. With my radio set at its highest settings, it was barely enough to slow the car down, locking up the tires is only a dream. I always assumed the brake system on the car was just weak. I just purchased a Kyosho 777 WC with the ferodo brake pads on it. And yet again with radio at full throw my brakes still barely slow the car. Is a Z590 servo just not enough torque for the brakes???? I always assumed 90 ounces would be fine for brakeing. I have a airtronics 357 for steering and I intend on getting a faster and stronger servo for the throttle/brake in the future, but I am just wondering if the servo is the problem or is it something else?
1st make sure the brake pads and disks are fairly clean. If they are the servo could be the problem but a 590 should be enough. If you still cant get good brakes it sounds like your linkage may be the problem. I switch all my vehicles over to the dynamite linkage system because hands down it is the easiest to adjust. You can get it for around $10 and that may help your situation. keep us posted on what you did to make it work.
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Old 05-21-2008, 05:50 AM   #3
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I don't think the 590 is worthy of 1/8 scale duties. I would recommend getting an ace 1313 (173 torque .13 transit) or a futaba 9451 (120 torque and .10 transit) both servos are digital, and metal gears and are about $75.

For the steering I would recommend an ace 1015 or futaba 9351. You will notice a world of difference in performance with good servos.
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Old 05-21-2008, 07:29 AM   #4
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I don't think the 590 is worthy of 1/8 scale duties. I would recommend getting an ace 1313 (173 torque .13 transit) or a futaba 9451 (120 torque and .10 transit) both servos are digital, and metal gears and are about $75.

For the steering I would recommend an ace 1015 or futaba 9351. You will notice a world of difference in performance with good servos.
+1

I run a 9351 on steering, it was a world of difference from the Hitec 5645MG that I had on there. I moved the Hitec to throttle/brake and it is enough... but just enough.

A cheap upgrade you could consider is using the composite disks with metal pads... and double them up on the front. (2 disks and 3 pads.) I'm not sure if your car has that currently, but if not it does help a lot. Rear you don't need that unless you are one of those rare folks that wants more rear brake than front for turning... also, I've seen a 777WC shed a brake pad (the lining) during a race, and the result wasn't pretty. (my best bud... came down the straight to a little tabletop, hit the brakes and nothing much happened... LAUNCHED the car, he actually thought he had a runaway!) With the composite disks and metal pads that is never a problem.

You really DO need more than 90 oz on brake though... I just don't think you're going to get the results you want with less than about 120 oz, even with the brake setup I mentioned... and 150 or so would be even better. Speed on the throttle/brake isn't QUITE as much of an issue as it is on steering, but you don't want one that is too slow either.

Also... digital servos have more "holding power" than analog. Look for a decent digital servo with 120 oz or more of power and no slower than about .14, whatever brand you go with.
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Old 05-21-2008, 07:50 PM   #5
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Thanks for your replys, all are very helpful.

I think I am going to get a stronger servo on the throttle/brake servo. Domit, I see your reasoning of using the two disks and the pads but I think I will stick with the ferodo pads and single disk brake, but I definitely feel I need more servo power. The only reason I am sticking with what I have is because most of the guys at my track run the ferodo setup just like what my car has but they have stronger servos. They usually can lock there brakes up whenever they want and I really don't want that kind of power I just want to be able to slow the car down after the long and i mean long straight we have which of course has a 180 degree turn right after it. I have to roll into the corner much slower than the other guys because I cant stop my ride from speed when they can.
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Kyosho 777 WC w/ big bores, RB S5, ACE 1313 s., Air 357 t., JP-3
HPI Savage X SS, Axial .28, Hitec 5645 Steering servo
Nitro TC3, O.S. .18 CV-R
Associated RC18T, Brushless, Lipo
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Old 05-21-2008, 07:57 PM   #6
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Just upgrade you servo.I would recomend a futaba bl9351 ..I was having the same problem.I upgraded the servo and it fixed everything...I also run a Mp777 WC and those bonded brake pads are the best...Do not change your brake set up use the WC brakes
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Old 05-21-2008, 08:02 PM   #7
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I have heard awesome things about the WC brakes and thats why I dont plan on changing the pad and disk setup.
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Kyosho 777 WC w/ big bores, RB S5, ACE 1313 s., Air 357 t., JP-3
HPI Savage X SS, Axial .28, Hitec 5645 Steering servo
Nitro TC3, O.S. .18 CV-R
Associated RC18T, Brushless, Lipo
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Old 05-21-2008, 08:02 PM   #8
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Z8800s & Z8800t !!
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Old 05-22-2008, 09:59 AM   #9
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I would suggest moving the 357 to the throttle/brake and getting a new more powerful servo for the steering. The 357 is a great servo but it's really not quite enough to steer a buggy with authority, however it would be perfect for the brakes.
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Old 05-22-2008, 12:41 PM   #10
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Domit.
Some of us must have the fastest servo we can get for throttle/brakes. I'm one of them, and IMO speed is a major requirement when I look at t/b servos. I ran electric for 10+ years before getting into the nitro scene, and immediately noticed I couldn't drive a slow servo'ed nitro for anything. Just too slow, and I couldn't retrain my brain to the slower timing.

I run and swear by the new JR 9100S 180 oz. torque, at 0.06 transit speed. More than enough torque, and simply the fastest servo I know of...I run the Common Sense RC 1500mAh LiPo's as well which makes them even faster...

I (in my truggy) do run dual front fiberglass discs, with a single in the rear on metal calipers, and the stoppinng power is simply amazing now.

Hope this helps...

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Old 05-22-2008, 06:38 PM   #11
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Lol, servo is deffinately the problem.

One of my buddies had his JR9100T sitting out on the table so I threw it in the buggy, after a full speed run down his street I clamped on the brakes and well I have never seen an 1/8th scale buggy with a center diff actually roll and stoppie before the diff finally decided to unload and settle the rear end back down. Now that I know that the problem is the servo I just need to get a stronger one. Probably going to go with an ace.

Quick question, what spline count do the Ace servos use??? Is it the same as the airtronics, JR and Ko, or is it one of the others?
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Kyosho 777 WC w/ big bores, RB S5, ACE 1313 s., Air 357 t., JP-3
HPI Savage X SS, Axial .28, Hitec 5645 Steering servo
Nitro TC3, O.S. .18 CV-R
Associated RC18T, Brushless, Lipo
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