Crazy OS V-Spec Break In Methods?
05-09-2008, 09:48 AM
#1
Crazy OS V-Spec Break In Methods?
I just got an OS V-Spec and about to break it in.
I heard of someone using aluminium foil to cover a part of the heat syncs and running it at idle on a bench with no load for several tanks then adjusting the foil again and running it more?
Also I heard about the 35 minute method for breaking in an engine?
35 minute break in method
BE SURE to pull the piston down to dead position (the bottom) when cooling down or it may get stuck and break.
Vary speed while breaking in
10, 1-minute runs letting engine cool down between runs. ½ throttle
10, 2-minute runs letting engine cool down between runs. ½ throttle
1, 5-minute run using up to ¾ throttle
The instructions break in process is very basic.
So what is the best way to break in an OS V-Spec?
Thanks, -Don
I heard of someone using aluminium foil to cover a part of the heat syncs and running it at idle on a bench with no load for several tanks then adjusting the foil again and running it more?
Also I heard about the 35 minute method for breaking in an engine?
35 minute break in method
BE SURE to pull the piston down to dead position (the bottom) when cooling down or it may get stuck and break.
Vary speed while breaking in
10, 1-minute runs letting engine cool down between runs. ½ throttle
10, 2-minute runs letting engine cool down between runs. ½ throttle
1, 5-minute run using up to ¾ throttle
The instructions break in process is very basic.
So what is the best way to break in an OS V-Spec?
Thanks, -Don
05-09-2008, 11:04 AM
#2
Start the motor and immediately put the car on the ground and run it,,, only slightly rich. On my Novarossi motor I actually leaned it a 1/2 turn on top and bottom. When you place the car on the ground and run it get the temp up to 200-210 asap. Run it for 2-3 minutes. bring the car in and kill the motor. Make certain the piston is at bottom dead center and let the motor cool to outside temp. Start the motor and repeat the process again and again untill you have 20 minutes of combined run time. After 20 minutes of time bump the runtime up to 4-5 minute intervals do this for about 25 minutes. After that you are ready for track tuning. Always return the piston to BDC. I got this procedure from a member her named Nobike. It is an awsome process to break in a motor with and used it on a Novarossi .21 I know the same will work for any manufacture.
This is definately not a idel on the bench break in method!!
This is definately not a idel on the bench break in method!!
05-09-2008, 11:27 AM
#4
I use a heat gun to get my engines up over 170, then fire it up, i wrap the head with a rag or tin foil to keep temps up, (over 200) I then run for 4-6 min intervals.. starting at 4 min runs, then let cool, returning piston to bdc, i do several 4min runs,(maybe up to half throttle) then several 5min runs(half to 3/4 throttle), then 6min (going to fulthrottl blips) all in all, about 35-45 min work of running, then i start to race tune, .. personally i feel there is a lot less stress on the rob with the heat cycle method..
05-09-2008, 11:59 AM
#7
the main reason people went to the heat cycle method is standard method had that extra stress on the rod running very fat and not up to temp so the sleeve isnt expanded, and you put A LOT more pressure and stress on the rod.. the heat cycyle method relieves a lot of that.. I got over 7 galons threw my last motor, so im sticking with what works for me..
05-09-2008, 12:16 PM
#9
I use a heat gun to get my engines up over 170, then fire it up, i wrap the head with a rag or tin foil to keep temps up, (over 200) I then run for 4-6 min intervals.. starting at 4 min runs, then let cool, returning piston to bdc, i do several 4min runs,(maybe up to half throttle) then several 5min runs(half to 3/4 throttle), then 6min (going to fulthrottl blips) all in all, about 35-45 min work of running, then i start to race tune, .. personally i feel there is a lot less stress on the rob with the heat cycle method..
05-09-2008, 03:15 PM
#10
05-09-2008, 03:17 PM
#11
I just got an OS V-Spec and about to break it in.
I heard of someone using aluminium foil to cover a part of the heat syncs and running it at idle on a bench with no load for several tanks then adjusting the foil again and running it more?
Also I heard about the 35 minute method for breaking in an engine?
35 minute break in method
BE SURE to pull the piston down to dead position (the bottom) when cooling down or it may get stuck and break.
Vary speed while breaking in
10, 1-minute runs letting engine cool down between runs. ½ throttle
10, 2-minute runs letting engine cool down between runs. ½ throttle
1, 5-minute run using up to ¾ throttle
The instructions break in process is very basic.
So what is the best way to break in an OS V-Spec?
Thanks, -Don
I heard of someone using aluminium foil to cover a part of the heat syncs and running it at idle on a bench with no load for several tanks then adjusting the foil again and running it more?
Also I heard about the 35 minute method for breaking in an engine?
35 minute break in method
BE SURE to pull the piston down to dead position (the bottom) when cooling down or it may get stuck and break.
Vary speed while breaking in
10, 1-minute runs letting engine cool down between runs. ½ throttle
10, 2-minute runs letting engine cool down between runs. ½ throttle
1, 5-minute run using up to ¾ throttle
The instructions break in process is very basic.
So what is the best way to break in an OS V-Spec?
Thanks, -Don
05-10-2008, 09:36 PM
#12
This is the method I used for my last engine and it is the only break in procedure I will use for now on.I have tried several methods including the heat cycle and I like this the best. Dont knock it until you try.
Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.
The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.
This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!
Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul
Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.
The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.
This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!
Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul
05-11-2008, 10:08 AM
#13
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
to much fuel will cause to much stress on the rod and crank i used to do a method very similar to that and it sucks it stresses out the engine way to much and reduces the life alot you want to run it at 200-220 cold metal rubbing on cold metal with alot of stress is not at all breaking in an engine
by the way 16 hours of racing is not that much i do that in 2 months if you break in the v-spec the right way you can get 7-8 gallons out of it
by the way 16 hours of racing is not that much i do that in 2 months if you break in the v-spec the right way you can get 7-8 gallons out of it
05-11-2008, 11:29 AM
#14
Then I WILL BE THE CRAZIEST after reading all the technics in here....
2 tanks on the bench, with quite high engine idle around 80C - 90C temp.
1 or 2 tanks on track, while searching the best acceleration.
DONE !! .... I go racing after that.
.
2 tanks on the bench, with quite high engine idle around 80C - 90C temp.
1 or 2 tanks on track, while searching the best acceleration.
DONE !! .... I go racing after that.
.
05-11-2008, 02:00 PM
#15
The best way to break in an engine is to run the first 3 tanks on a 50/50 pump gas and deisel mix, then switch over to the highest nitro boat fuel you can find, and run that for a quart. Your engine is now broken in... or you could just use the heat cycle method.