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Old 05-11-2008, 02:01 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by rossoh10 View Post
This is the method I used for my last engine and it is the only break in procedure I will use for now on.I have tried several methods including the heat cycle and I like this the best. Dont knock it until you try.

Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.
The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.
This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!
Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul
anyone seen Josh Cyrul running slow in nitro? guess his way works as well as any then, i also know that Jon Hazlewood from the UK runs his engines in very similar to this and he is a OS team driver also and he gets very good life from his engines so i wouldnt discount this method everyone has a way that works for them and they are all different, i will be trying this method for my next new v-spec if i can wear out the current one that is
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Old 05-11-2008, 05:03 PM   #17
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That's prob why he is always seen at big events doing his famous break in. Who needs to breaking in a motor at a big event??? I have better stuff to do.
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Old 05-11-2008, 05:22 PM   #18
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Default Here you go..... This was for a break in stand but....

I did find some short commings in the bench design. Being a store leads us down all roads as far as engine mounts and designs.
We changed to a pusher prop instead of the puller prop. It helps the engine build temp better.

For an in car breakin - no jumping and stay off the pipe for a couple of tanks. IE - don't let her open up.

I prime the motor with a little fuel in the carb. Open the carb about 1/4 open and set the high needle about 2 3/4 turns out. Fire her up and let her run up to 200 degrees. Use your carb opening to get your temps. Just don't run it at high RPMs! Leave it running until it gets stable and can come down smoothly to a low idle RPM and maintain its stability. OS and Sportworks motors are about 20 - 30 minutes. Nova based stuff takes 30 - 40 minutes. Let the motor go till it loosens up.
Turn it off and let it completely cool. (20 minutes) Now you are ready to harden the mechanically seated parts. Bring it back up to temp. Let it run for a couple of minutes to get to the 200+. Take it back to a low idle RPM and shut it down.
Each time the motor turns off you need to make sure it is BDC (Bottom Dead Center).

Repeat 3 more thermal cycles.

Put it in your car with a mild tune and you should be ready to go after a tank or two.

You can use the first curve in your exhaust line to read a temp off of. Match this to your head temp and you will stay closer to what is really going on inside.

Always take your motor to BDC after its run.

You should 7+ gallons out of your VSpec if it is treated right and you should always run these motors at 200+ degrees. If it seems too powerful at these settings then change your clutch.
Never detune a motor below its recommended operating temperature. You will just get shorter run times and a shorter life span.

Hope this helps,
TEX
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Old 05-11-2008, 09:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossoh10 View Post
This is the method I used for my last engine and it is the only break in procedure I will use for now on.I have tried several methods including the heat cycle and I like this the best. Dont knock it until you try.

Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.
The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.
This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!
Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul


This is very similar to how I break in motors, and have not had one problem in hundreds of motors for myself as well as customers.


Mount the engine in the car as you normally would.
Get the engine started, and let it idle for 30 seconds to build up some heat.
Slowly increase throttle as you richen up the top end needle. Leave the ignitor on the car and keep going until you achive full throttle and are so rich the engine will barely run.

Run 1 tank like that and let it cool off.

Start engine again and run 5-6 more tanksin that manner. You will notice you HAVE to lean the mixture just to keep the engine running. You can remove the ignitor after the 3rd or 4th tank and lean the engine a bit to compensate. Let the engine cool off again.

After that, fire the car and tune it so you can slowly start driving it around, keep the temp around 130, and keep full throttle blasts to a minimum of a second or two.

Over 3-4 more tanks, gradually get the car up to 180. Let the car cool back off fully once or twice during these tanks.

After that put the car on the track and adjust as necessary. Put in a new glow plug for this step.

I've used this method on everything from entry level engines, to full race engines and have got well above average life out of everything.

Best of all this takes about an hour.

Last edited by largeorangefont; 05-12-2008 at 12:14 AM.
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Old 05-11-2008, 10:42 PM   #20
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I have tried that but my motors never fire back up after that...........
I honestly did that and the engine runs fine. WOT the very first say I got it, no mercy.
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:17 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
Then I WILL BE THE CRAZIEST after reading all the technics in here....

2 tanks on the bench, with quite high engine idle around 80C - 90C temp.

1 or 2 tanks on track, while searching the best acceleration.

DONE !! .... I go racing after that.

.
LMAO at your sponsors, now that's truly funny
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:24 AM   #22
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I'm not an expert but i do know that you need to heat-gun/hair-dryer your engines during break in to get the longest life span.
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Old 05-12-2008, 06:17 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by largeorangefont View Post
This is very similar to how I break in motors, and have not had one problem in hundreds of motors for myself as well as customers.


Mount the engine in the car as you normally would.
Get the engine started, and let it idle for 30 seconds to build up some heat.
Slowly increase throttle as you richen up the top end needle. Leave the ignitor on the car and keep going until you achive full throttle and are so rich the engine will barely run.

Run 1 tank like that and let it cool off.

Start engine again and run 5-6 more tanksin that manner. You will notice you HAVE to lean the mixture just to keep the engine running. You can remove the ignitor after the 3rd or 4th tank and lean the engine a bit to compensate. Let the engine cool off again.

After that, fire the car and tune it so you can slowly start driving it around, keep the temp around 130, and keep full throttle blasts to a minimum of a second or two.

Over 3-4 more tanks, gradually get the car up to 180. Let the car cool back off fully once or twice during these tanks.

After that put the car on the track and adjust as necessary. Put in a new glow plug for this step.

I've used this method on everything from entry level engines, to full race engines and have got well above average life out of everything.

Best of all this takes about an hour.
Exact method I use and was taught this method by Taylor James pit man. Hes also Tebos father in law. I have never had a bad motor using this method. I have a Sportwerks CV .21 on its second season. Among other motors.

Heres my contribution to this thread.
It takes me half gallon or more to break in a motor. Thats before trying to get it to the sweet spot and running it in while tuning it. Would it make sense to have less pinch to a motor when new.
If it runs so so in the beginning we could have a little less pinch, it would be less fuel to break in less shavings to blow out and get to the sweet spot quicker. It sounds like this would make sense.?
Break in is the most serious and risky part of the motor. The less particle could be good.?
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