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Old 05-04-2008, 07:52 AM   #1
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Default What else have I forgotten on my 8-T?

8-T race roller
Carbon Fiber Rear A-Arm sheilds
M2C Heavy Duty Rear Outer Hinge Pins
Team Losi Heavy Duty Hi-Temp Brake Rotors
JR 9001T steering servo
JR 9001S throttle servo
Jammin JP-4 exhaust
Novarossi Plus 21-5k race engine
Team Losi 7.4v Lipo
Spectrum DX3R radio system

Is there anything I am missing that would improve the truck to a more world class standard? I'm not sure that I need aluminum hubs or cross brace.... we'll see how the stockies hold up before I do. I'm looking for any other parts I need to change and replace for racing. I wish I could find a CF servo tray/holder.

Race day is about a week away for me and I've sunk $$$$$$ into this truck and I have yet to even start the engine to break it in. Without getting into a fuel debate I have not broken the engine in yet because I have not decided between Odonnels or Byron Gen 2. I'm trying to make sure I have all my bases covered before I go out racing so any edge I can get, I'm all ears.

Thanks!





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Old 05-04-2008, 08:08 AM   #2
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Looks awesome , I cant tell from pic's ,but don't forget to install throttle return spring of some sort. Spring or rubber band .And set your throttle end points correct on the losi especially .Oh and check your shock lengths and ride height frontt and back after you break in your chassis . Just my 2 cents
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Old 05-04-2008, 09:08 AM   #3
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thanks! Yes I have heard a lot about the endpoints on these and I'm being VERY careful on setting them to come up short.
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Old 05-04-2008, 09:45 AM   #4
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Looks good to start. I'd eliminate the CF mud gaurds and build them with lexan. The CF will break, and chip, then not look so hot. Also eliminate the super brake rotors. Not needed in my opinion. Then I'd get a quick change (QC) engine mount. Clutch maintenance, CB bearing, and tuning will be much, much, much easier. You can pull the engine out in about 45 seconds. Make your changes. Then put it back in. Less than 10 minutes counting the tuning.
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Old 05-04-2008, 09:48 AM   #5
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The new HD diff cases are very nice as well.
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Old 05-04-2008, 09:53 AM   #6
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Oh!! You might want to look at the aluminum servo saver top piece, aluminum servo horn for steering, and the aluminum rear diff bearing inserts. These will help bullet proof the truck. Also some people put extra foam, lexan, or something in the bottom of the battery box. The plastic boss for the rear screw has broken a few people's batteries before.
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Old 05-04-2008, 10:32 AM   #7
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Have you ever raced a truggy before? If not it wont really matter what you do to the truck you wont gain any edge on the track without practice.
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Old 05-04-2008, 10:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air8 View Post
Looks good to start. I'd eliminate the CF mud gaurds and build them with lexan. The CF will break, and chip, then not look so hot. Also eliminate the super brake rotors. Not needed in my opinion. Then I'd get a quick change (QC) engine mount. Clutch maintenance, CB bearing, and tuning will be much, much, much easier. You can pull the engine out in about 45 seconds. Make your changes. Then put it back in. Less than 10 minutes counting the tuning.
Most def looking into the qc stuff, thank ya.
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Old 05-05-2008, 04:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air8 View Post
Oh!! You might want to look at the aluminum servo saver top piece, aluminum servo horn for steering, and the aluminum rear diff bearing inserts. These will help bullet proof the truck. Also some people put extra foam, lexan, or something in the bottom of the battery box. The plastic boss for the rear screw has broken a few people's batteries before.
I just noticed you replied twice, lol. *smacks head* I thought it was a double post at first.

I'm all for bulletproofing the truck, but I am making sure I keep it light as possible. Sometimes too much aluminum is a bad thing, but your suggestions are small parts so I think they'll be ok. I do want to keep from staying in the pits. I have already weighted the chassis at the rear and balanced the truck and will have to do it again when the QC engine mount comes. I have 2 Nova plus engines that are identical, one for practice to keep the hours off my race engine which still has yet to see a drop of fuel yet.

Very cool tip on the foam in the batt box. I'm running the losi lipo and converter so I don't want to have to buy that one again. ($$)

Are there any vendors that have better prices than what I can find these items on ebay for? Some things like my Nova engine was $369 on ebay plus shipping and I got it locally for $339 so it seems the items I am particularly looking for are hit or miss on prices.
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Old 05-05-2008, 05:15 PM   #10
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Sometimes it pays to shop around. Many people are all about getting good deals. But don't forget about the good deal with having a LHS around. I do my best to buy from my LHS, the small increase in price is worth it to have a place to hang out and bullsh** once in a while. Don't mean to preach anything but the next closest hobbyshop is 60 miles one way. It would get expensive to have to drive there once a week.
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Old 05-05-2008, 08:16 PM   #11
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I haven't upgraded anything on my 8ight-b and it's holding up strong after 4 gallons. and I race on a rough blown out track. I have however bent both rear shock shafts. But as far as wear and tear, the aluminum upgrades wouldn't help me at all, just make it heavier. Then again I'm sure the truggy takes way more of a beating than the buggy.
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Old 05-05-2008, 08:24 PM   #12
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The only aluminum upgrade that is really needed IMO is the rear bearing inserts. The plastic counterparts get alot of slop quickly and can run a diff gear. This truggy is really ready for world's level competition right out of the box so no performance upgrade is needed except your time practicing driving it.
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Old 05-06-2008, 11:24 AM   #13
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as air has alrady mentioned get the alloy servo saver top and alloy servo horn. The stock one with the inserts will strip the insert fairly easy and the alloy serto saver allows for smooth consistant operation of the servo saver. the alunimum rear inserts are good to have also and you already have the brakes so you should be set after thoes peices.
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