Great job TQ Race Team.

Wassup B. If the weather is good we are racing again on the 23rd. I will give you a shout. Some of the Cullman guys are coming and a guy here wants another chance to race you now that he has his own buggy. ;)

I will keep it in mind.

Bama Bump. :D

well i just got my sx8 today and i am very pleased so far at the quality of the plastic and metal parts. i will start building it asap. just thought i would ask about any build specific tips and possibly a setup right now for a high bite indoor track. tires i will run will be panther switches (clay)

thanks in advance for everyones tips and suggestions

Make sure you put a big washer behind the screw/hinge pin behind the front bumper. If you hit something hard enough it will pull the insert out of the front alum brace. With the washer in place you will never have to worry about it.
I take it Leisure Hours is where you are going to race? That used to be my home track and I am sure the TQ buggy will work awsome there. I would start with 50wt front shock oil and 40wt rear. 5-7-2 in the diffs. Shock oil will be the big thing there. You need the car soft enough for the jumps but not so soft that it traction rolls.

Any other questions feel free to ask.

Brian Kadow
(TQ Race Team)

ahhh so this is where you went VR6! You should like this buggy. It is very nice and very easy to build.

If anybody is looking for a spare I have a SX8 with only 10 tanks on it as a roller for $200 inc. shipping.

hey brian, thx for the reply. yes leisure is it, plus newberrys in orion il.

Do you have any pictures of your buggy?

I do not have any of it as it sits now with everything out of it. A couple pages back in this thread though are some pics of it. I can get pics but will be probably tomorrow.

Brian K, YGM...

When assembling the front C-Hub (4*16 Kingpin screw) that screws into the C- hub, be very very careful not to put loctite on screw, put small amount of loctite on C-Hub thread itself then insert metal sleeve then tighten screw.

If you put loctite on the actual screw then screw it into the C-Hub, when/if it pops out, the C-Hub screw will attach itself to the metal insert, this can become very frustrating, thus you will most likely strip the insert. I learned the hard way and go easy on the locktite

Also you might want to try this posted by the Australian Factory driver “I have added a Conical shaped washer either side of the Steering Tie Rod, and also changed the way the steel ball is orientated”. This stops the 3*18 screw that holds the tire rods in place from bending as it was happening to me, if you land awkwardly either (L/R) lnose 1st this helps to eliminate the issues.

Hope this of some help, sorry no help to you re set ups

Sorry about my post if it sounds/looks really scattered, I have been up for days studying for uni exams. :eek:

confused by the washer setup location, does anyone else do this and iz there a picture i could see?

i understand the other tip just fine

thanks

I have not felt the need to do that yet.

Hey, i am having the C-Hub issue with the left hand side. I am currently rebuilding my buggy and cleaned/ inspected the Left hub. Put it back together and noticed that its Binding on something, So i looked and had too much lock tight on the screws, so i replaced them with new ones and i am still having the binding issue ( you have to force it alot to turn the hub). The right side works great... Help??

My guess is the Hub is stripped but i could be wrong.