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Old 05-03-2008, 04:10 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by jgtruggy View Post
The HITEC 5955 tg dervo is top of the line. Get an aluminum horn and your set. Make sure to set your radio right so you don't blow your servo. The ace1015 is top too. I run the ace for throttle and hitec for steering
How do you blow a servo via your radio?

I got this servo off ebay, it came in a package with other servos and a sr3000 receiver.

Im having a few problems with my Hitec 625, it seems weak, it doesnt turn the wheels as much as i would like it to. and the damn servo arm keeps stripping. and it doesnt return to perfect center.

I think Im still a little confused about the parts.

What are these parts called?
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Old 05-03-2008, 04:52 PM   #17
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How do you blow a servo via your radio?

I got this servo off ebay, it came in a package with other servos and a sr3000 receiver.

Im having a few problems with my Hitec 625, it seems weak, it doesnt turn the wheels as much as i would like it to. and the damn servo arm keeps stripping. and it doesnt return to perfect center.

I think Im still a little confused about the parts.

What are these parts called?
1. you can blow servos via radio by having EPA (end point adjustments) set incorrectly. This means that your servo may be working overtime even tho mechanically the (e.g steering) has reached full lock. Also if you leave your receiver pack turned on for a prolonged period after you have turned your transmitter off, the failsafe settings may kick in and cause servos to slowly die - golden rule - transmitter on first and off last.

2. if you are stripping servo arms check the following -
(i) you are using the correct servo arm (i.e the spline count is correct). Often you will notice a "J", "F" or "H" stamped on the servo arm to indicate if it is for a JR, Futaba or Hitec spline)
(ii) check your servo saver is not set too tight (you should be able to 'break' the arms apart with your fingers - do this with the radio gear off!)
(iii) use aluminium servo arms (and not the aluminium arms with the plastic inserts!)

3. the Hitec 625 only has around 100 oz / inch of torque at 6V - if you want fast, powerful steering look at an ACE1015 (200oz / inch .10 sec travel at 6V) or I have seen buggy's run with the ACE 1313 for steering (180oz / inch)

4. the first pic is of the spline, the second is known as the steering servo arm or steering servo rod and the plastic bits at the end are the steering servo rod ends.
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Old 05-03-2008, 05:56 PM   #18
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Wow $72 for a digital metal gear 173oz .13sec time servo, that seems too good to be true!

is the plastic used for the case strong? I remember blue bird used to be powerfull but the cases cracked like nothing.


do they make something fast with less torque for the same price.
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Old 05-03-2008, 06:09 PM   #19
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Wow $72 for a digital metal gear 173oz .13sec time servo, that seems too good to be true!

is the plastic used for the case strong? I remember blue bird used to be powerfull but the cases cracked like nothing.


do they make something fast with less torque for the same price.
If you mean the ACE1313 then yeah it is great value for money. I have never had a problem with them (i use them as throttle brake servo in all my truggies). Even if the plastic case was to break (which never has on me) the replacement is only $USD8. I am not sure if they make a less powerful servo for 1/8th scale sorry.
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Old 05-03-2008, 07:46 PM   #20
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1. you can blow servos via radio by having EPA (end point adjustments) set incorrectly. This means that your servo may be working overtime even tho mechanically the (e.g steering) has reached full lock. Also if you leave your receiver pack turned on for a prolonged period after you have turned your transmitter off, the failsafe settings may kick in and cause servos to slowly die - golden rule - transmitter on first and off last.

2. if you are stripping servo arms check the following -
(i) you are using the correct servo arm (i.e the spline count is correct). Often you will notice a "J", "F" or "H" stamped on the servo arm to indicate if it is for a JR, Futaba or Hitec spline)
(ii) check your servo saver is not set too tight (you should be able to 'break' the arms apart with your fingers - do this with the radio gear off!)
(iii) use aluminium servo arms (and not the aluminium arms with the plastic inserts!)

3. the Hitec 625 only has around 100 oz / inch of torque at 6V - if you want fast, powerful steering look at an ACE1015 (200oz / inch .10 sec travel at 6V) or I have seen buggy's run with the ACE 1313 for steering (180oz / inch)

4. the first pic is of the spline, the second is known as the steering servo arm or steering servo rod and the plastic bits at the end are the steering servo rod ends.
Damn, that explained a lot. thank you. I didnt know about the transmitter trick, that one is very very helpful.

What do you mean by servo saver? I dont think I have one of those...

How come my car turns real sharp to the left, but not to the right? The servo horn is straight, I cant figure it out, it has barely any power when turning to the right, I think my servo is shot.

Im also having some problems with my spektrum 3.0 remote, minor problems, not too sure how to work it, the steering trim only wants to go to +/- 30. I have two spektrum 3.0 remotes, and two rc cars. one works fine, the other im having problems with...

on my second buggy, I have a Airtronics 94359 High Torque Aluminum Gear for steering. Its pretty good, makes a lot of weird glitching sounds though.
Torque: 200 oz/in. @ 6.0v
Speed: 0.10 sec / 60 degrees

thanks
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Old 05-04-2008, 12:15 AM   #21
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Damn, that explained a lot. thank you. I didnt know about the transmitter trick, that one is very very helpful.

What do you mean by servo saver? I dont think I have one of those...

How come my car turns real sharp to the left, but not to the right? The servo horn is straight, I cant figure it out, it has barely any power when turning to the right, I think my servo is shot.

Im also having some problems with my spektrum 3.0 remote, minor problems, not too sure how to work it, the steering trim only wants to go to +/- 30. I have two spektrum 3.0 remotes, and two rc cars. one works fine, the other im having problems with...

on my second buggy, I have a Airtronics 94359 High Torque Aluminum Gear for steering. Its pretty good, makes a lot of weird glitching sounds though.
Torque: 200 oz/in. @ 6.0v
Speed: 0.10 sec / 60 degrees

thanks

It would be unusual not to have a servo saver of some sort on a nitro car. From the picture it looks like you have one. It's the piece that the steering servo arm attaches to. It should have two plastic arms and a spring with an adjusting nut of some sort. On some less expensive models the servo horn has an attached servo saver. What sort of buggies do you have and where did you buy them from?

It's a process of elimination to work out your steering problem -

1. first check there is no mechanical issue with the steering set up. Disconnect the steering servo arm from the servo saver arm and see if the steering moves freely in a full range of motion. If not, find out why not.

2. If it does, reconnect the steering arm and remove the servo horn from the spline. Turn your transmitter on and reset all steering trim levels to 0 and steering EPA's to 75%. Turn on your receiver and let the steering servo set itself to centre. Turn the receiver off and reconnect the servo horn to the spline making sure the wheels are set straight ahead. Turn the receiver back on and test steering. If o.k, reset your EPA's so you are achieving the max turning arc desired - note that you need to make sure that when the wheels are at max lock, the servo is not trying to push them further - if it is, back the EPA's off a bit.

3. If this still doesnot work, turn your radio gear off and swap the steering servo with the Airtronics one to see if that works o.k - if it does then you can safely say that you need to invest in a new servo - an ACE1015 would be my recommendation!

Couple of final comments - you should not have to set your servo trim anywhere near +/- 30. Resetting the position of your servo horn in 2 above should fix this and as far as the glitching goes... if it sounds like constant whine emitting from the servo, that most often means that at 'rest' it is under some sort of load but I haven't used that particular servo before (and i never recommend analogue servos).

Hope this helps.
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Old 05-04-2008, 10:43 AM   #22
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Im not too expirienced with truggies but wont the ACE1313 at 173oz .13sec be enough for a truggy's steering?
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Old 05-04-2008, 12:52 PM   #23
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Im not too expirienced with truggies but wont the ACE1313 at 173oz .13sec be enough for a truggy's steering?
You want at least 200oz. or more. I run a hitec5955 tg at 300oz. of torque in my truggy This assures holding a turn without the truggy wanting to change directions. This is a titanium gear servo, one of the toughest made. $109 worth every penny
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Old 05-04-2008, 03:21 PM   #24
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Im not too expirienced with truggies but wont the ACE1313 at 173oz .13sec be enough for a truggy's steering?
Its plenty for me and about 15 or so other people I know that race/run truggys and buggies. I can say I have never been in a situation when I needed more steering servo than the DS1313 offers, and it is very concise.
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Old 05-04-2008, 05:50 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by TRArena View Post
It would be unusual not to have a servo saver of some sort on a nitro car. From the picture it looks like you have one. It's the piece that the steering servo arm attaches to. It should have two plastic arms and a spring with an adjusting nut of some sort. On some less expensive models the servo horn has an attached servo saver. What sort of buggies do you have and where did you buy them from?

It's a process of elimination to work out your steering problem -

1. first check there is no mechanical issue with the steering set up. Disconnect the steering servo arm from the servo saver arm and see if the steering moves freely in a full range of motion. If not, find out why not.

2. If it does, reconnect the steering arm and remove the servo horn from the spline. Turn your transmitter on and reset all steering trim levels to 0 and steering EPA's to 75%. Turn on your receiver and let the steering servo set itself to centre. Turn the receiver off and reconnect the servo horn to the spline making sure the wheels are set straight ahead. Turn the receiver back on and test steering. If o.k, reset your EPA's so you are achieving the max turning arc desired - note that you need to make sure that when the wheels are at max lock, the servo is not trying to push them further - if it is, back the EPA's off a bit.

3. If this still doesnot work, turn your radio gear off and swap the steering servo with the Airtronics one to see if that works o.k - if it does then you can safely say that you need to invest in a new servo - an ACE1015 would be my recommendation!

Couple of final comments - you should not have to set your servo trim anywhere near +/- 30. Resetting the position of your servo horn in 2 above should fix this and as far as the glitching goes... if it sounds like constant whine emitting from the servo, that most often means that at 'rest' it is under some sort of load but I haven't used that particular servo before (and i never recommend analogue servos).

Hope this helps.
Ive got a himoto I got off ebay.

And a mugen mbx5 that i got the roller off ebay, and the electronics/engine from my LHS.

Thanks for the info, Ill have to wait for my new servo arm/horn? to get here before i start trying to figure it out. If it isint at +30 then my wheels are super crookes, I cant adjust the servo horn on it because that doesnt line up perfectly either, thats why im waiting for a new one.

what does EPA stand for?

thanks.
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Old 05-05-2008, 01:30 AM   #26
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Ive got a himoto I got off ebay.

And a mugen mbx5 that i got the roller off ebay, and the electronics/engine from my LHS.

Thanks for the info, Ill have to wait for my new servo arm/horn? to get here before i start trying to figure it out. If it isint at +30 then my wheels are super crookes, I cant adjust the servo horn on it because that doesnt line up perfectly either, thats why im waiting for a new one.

what does EPA stand for?

thanks.
if you are replacing the steering servo horn in the picture you posted, try to get a single arm horn. The double sided one that's on it now is more suited for throttle brake. may be an idea to check with someone on the himoto forum to see what spline that servo uses.

EPA stand for End Point Adjustment and is a setting on your transmitter that controls max travel of the servo. I think you said you have a DX3.0. I haven't had one for a while but from what i can remember you press the 'scroll' button to get to the EPA screen, then use the 'channel' button to select steering or throttle then, in the case of steering, turn the wheel and use the 'increase decrease' or 'up and down' button (can't remeber wat they're called) to set the max travel on the servo, Turn the wheel the other way and repeat the 'increase decrease' adjustment. Do the same for the throttle brake (select channel 'throttle' and squeeze the trigger then adjust for travel; push the trigger forward to change brake EPA). When I set up my cars I will normally have EPA set on 90%-95% for steering and throttle and as low as 40% on brake - but it will vary from car to car and driver to driver. The main thing is to make sure that once you reach full steering lock or max throttle or brake that your servo is not continuing to 'work' and push against the mechanical limitations of the car - it's a sure fire way to burn a servo or if you have a 333oz 5955TG servo, then you may even deal to your car instead!

Your LHS is prob a good place to get better advice (esp if you purchased the electronics from them).
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Old 05-05-2008, 08:26 AM   #27
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Your steering servo just isn't up to the task. I switched from a Hitech 5645 to a Futaba 9351 on steering and it made an amazing difference in the car's steering.

That Hitech that they are talking about is an awesome servo, I know lots of guys that run them and have never heard one single complaint, and never heard of one breaking.

For steering you need a servo that is both fast AND strong... that means spending a little more money. Sorry, that's racing!
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Old 05-05-2008, 05:27 PM   #28
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if you are replacing the steering servo horn in the picture you posted, try to get a single arm horn. The double sided one that's on it now is more suited for throttle brake. may be an idea to check with someone on the himoto forum to see what spline that servo uses.

EPA stand for End Point Adjustment and is a setting on your transmitter that controls max travel of the servo. I think you said you have a DX3.0. I haven't had one for a while but from what i can remember you press the 'scroll' button to get to the EPA screen, then use the 'channel' button to select steering or throttle then, in the case of steering, turn the wheel and use the 'increase decrease' or 'up and down' button (can't remeber wat they're called) to set the max travel on the servo, Turn the wheel the other way and repeat the 'increase decrease' adjustment. Do the same for the throttle brake (select channel 'throttle' and squeeze the trigger then adjust for travel; push the trigger forward to change brake EPA). When I set up my cars I will normally have EPA set on 90%-95% for steering and throttle and as low as 40% on brake - but it will vary from car to car and driver to driver. The main thing is to make sure that once you reach full steering lock or max throttle or brake that your servo is not continuing to 'work' and push against the mechanical limitations of the car - it's a sure fire way to burn a servo or if you have a 333oz 5955TG servo, then you may even deal to your car instead!

Your LHS is prob a good place to get better advice (esp if you purchased the electronics from them).
No, thats a very old pic with the stock (grabage) servos that came with the himoto. It now has a skeptrum z570 for throttle and a hitec 625mg for steering.

I see what youre saying, I think i was actually fooling around with that the other day. It was set on like 125% but after 95 or so it quit making a difference, so it was trying to pull on the servo even more even though it was already maxed out at 95.

do you make your brake low so the wheels dont lock up? that seems to be a big problem for me.

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Your steering servo just isn't up to the task. I switched from a Hitech 5645 to a Futaba 9351 on steering and it made an amazing difference in the car's steering.

That Hitech that they are talking about is an awesome servo, I know lots of guys that run them and have never heard one single complaint, and never heard of one breaking.

For steering you need a servo that is both fast AND strong... that means spending a little more money. Sorry, that's racing!
Yeah I know, I bought a package on ebay that had a spekrum remote, receiver, 2 spektrum servos, two futaba servos, and that Hitec, and looking at the specs, the Hitec was the best, followed by the spektrum, so I put them in steering and throttle, respectively.

I think once I get some money in my paypal Ill have to invest 100$ or so and get a nice steering servo, possibly a 5955. Im fine with spending money, Ive got too much of it anyways!

Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 05-06-2008, 03:10 AM   #29
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do you make your brake low so the wheels dont lock up? that seems to be a big problem for me.
i set my brake cams so they are only about 1mm from engaging and i use pen springs to keep the brake pads seperated. Then all i have to do is 'flick' the trigger to engage the brakes when needed. Because the movement is so small, i only need the servo to move a small amount hence the low EPA setting. I have collets on my brake linkages that adjust to establish brake tension which prevents lock up. I run with a 60:40 rear brake bias.
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