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Old 04-29-2008, 08:38 AM   #1
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Unhappy What can cause excessive clutch bell bearing failures?

Here is the rundown. I have never experienced clutch bell bearing problems until recently. I have tried both advantage racing and avid rc bearings.

Running them in a losi 8ight b and t with stock 4 shoe style clutches.
(one with max life shoes and the other with stock losi shoes)

Engines mounted perfectly straight when setting gear mesh.

Gear mesh always set perfect with just a slight tick of play.

Clutch bell end play set correctly with only a slight bit of back and forth movement.

Engines never over 240 degrees and clutch shoes aren't slipping excessively ever.


What have I overlooked? Should I start blowing the grease out of the new bearings before installing them like some do? I have owned over 20 different buggies and truggies and NEVER had this problem before. So I'm kinda stumped as to what to try next.
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:46 AM   #2
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On the losi you will want a little more play in the gear mesh b/c the chassis will flex abit more. The king keadz extened engine mount will help reduce flex in this area
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:53 AM   #3
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I hear ya. AFter each night of racing I clean and relube the CB bearings but they still only last 2 weekends, maybe 3. That's only 45 minutes total runtime locally. I'd like to see what others think also.
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:04 AM   #4
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hrmm....ur running dyna shoes on what springs ? im running all silver so i would think that would be the most heat producing combo...and i replace my bearings before any big main...20minutes dosent count...so every couple weekends or so.....blowing out the grease is an idea but running bearings dry is never a good idea imo....what i use is Boca Road Lube...i toss the inner bearing in a container with some Iosol and strip all the stock grease out...blow it out with air and relube it with a drop or 2 of the boca stuff....ive never really had a Bearing LOCK up or Feel very crunchy in a long time....but if u put the bearing on the end of a sharpened pencil and Push on the outter race and spin it u can Really tell the condition of the bearings....but ya at 1$ a peice....its worth to have 10-20 on hand to replace whenever.
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:07 AM   #5
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You could try these..?
http://www.redrc.net/page/19/
http://www.tkocompetitiondev.com/shop/
Drake uses them from what I have read.
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:48 AM   #6
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Gearheadz80: Thanks for that tip. I had a buddy mention something of that nature so I might pick up the losi or king headz mount for them this week.

Air8: I would be ecstatic if I could get 45 minutes total run time. What I'm talking about is more on the lines of 1-3 tanks per set of bearings......

Integra: I am running the stock spring arrangement of 2 gold 2 silver on the max life shoes as well as the stock losi 2 aluminum 2 carbon setup.

UN4RACING: If I knew ceramics would be the way to go I would buy some for sure. As money isn't an issue I wouldn't be that bothered by paying more than $1 a piece for bearings.
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:58 AM   #7
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ceramics are 5X the price....at 10$ for 2 bearings...imo its not worth it....Ive been down that road with Boca's 11$ a Peice Fancy clutch bearings.
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Old 04-29-2008, 12:13 PM   #8
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Take a good long look at the clutch bell and spur gear. If they have an erratic wear pattern or chipped spot ('s) replace them. This can cause repeated early bearing failure when all else is assembled right.

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Old 04-29-2008, 01:23 PM   #9
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i have the same problem before ,i got the lsp the chasy flex ,so its frustrating everytime ,so wat i did i used the thin flat washer between the chasy & the eng. motor mount,& the issue was gone ( i really dont want to spend a 1 piece eng. mount that time) so far i been using the protek bearings & i dnt have problem,but of course you have to maintain it clean ...................
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:58 PM   #10
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i have found that is your crank is worn where the bearings ride, the inner bearing race will actaully spin on the crank, as opposed to the outer race spinning around the inner race...this will heat the bearings up pretty quickly and will destroy them. Do this too many times and your crank is toast as well... food for thought.
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Old 04-29-2008, 03:01 PM   #11
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A bunch of guys told me in the forums that it is the chasis flex at the pinion spur gear interface that causes the bearings to go. They recommended using 2 pieces of paper instead of one to set the mesh as well as buying the KH extended motor mount. At least 3 or 4 guys said that after they purchased the KH motor mount they stopped going through bearings and one guy said he had 3 gallons on his since he changed them. Anyway they convinced me enough to buy the KH extended motor mount strickly to eliminate this issue, which is on its way to me right now.
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Old 04-29-2008, 03:23 PM   #12
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Thanks guys for all your input.

From the sounds of it, it looks like I'm most likely just setting the mesh too tight without compensating for chassis flex. I think I am going to go ahead and pick up a KH engine mount this week.


Hopefully I will get this fixed soon....
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Old 04-29-2008, 05:57 PM   #13
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i have also seen threee losi spur gears that are way not true and have a wobble i had to replace the cranks in the engines they got from me for a nominal fee due to this issue . not to mention clutch bell bearings every run
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Old 04-29-2008, 07:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crim3Wav3 View Post
i have found that is your crank is worn where the bearings ride, the inner bearing race will actaully spin on the crank, as opposed to the outer race spinning around the inner race...this will heat the bearings up pretty quickly and will destroy them. Do this too many times and your crank is toast as well... food for thought.
I can agree with that Crime. Never crossed my mind actually.
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