deeph

THE FRONT BEARING WASN'T DOUBLE SEALED BUT THE CARB HAS GOT TWO SCREWS NOT THREE.

Marcus Falconie

iTrader: (1)

When you get your motor back dont use the directions to break-in your motor. When you run it super rich you actually do more damage than good. Start your car at a slightly rich setting plop it on the ground and run it for 2-3 minuets getting the motor up to 200 degrees, shut it off with the piston at BDC and let the motor cool. Do this over and over until the motor has 15 min. or so on it than run it for 3-4 min at a time. after the motor has 25 min on it tune it to race. This method of heat cycling is the what all the top motor guys are doing. Good luck

wriffwraff

i'm on my third gallon, however, the front of my engine is oily too? the oily front started about mid way of the second gallon.

this is a warranty replacement engine, as the conrod took out the first engine at the five gallon mark. i had replaced the stock bearings on the original engine, front and rear, at the four gallon mark.

all considered, think i'll just replace the bearings with TKO ceramic's and put a new conrod in too. speaking of which, when should you replace the conrod? i mean, how many gallons? also, how can you tell if the conrod needs replacement?

i've only been into this hobby for a year, however, it appears that regardless of what engine you buy, in order to experience the full life of the engine, you must put in new bearings and a new conrod at the four gallon mark, correct?

oh well, after this one wears completely out, i'll have the crankcase, if nothing else, so i'm going to put the cobra evolution one kit in it. the mamba is a great engine, but my cen truggy is 10 lbs, so i need more cowbell

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

The first series of rods were known for snapping. They have changed the rods since. From what I heard, a Novarossi rod from the long stroke engines should fit also. As for a leaky front bearing, see if it has play one, and also see if it has double seals on it. The double sealed are the newer bearings. I remember OS engines have oil front bearings, but if you run your engine on the rich side, this will show up.

Merciless

Just thinking this thread is a little biased at the moment.

I've been using the model shop in question here for aproximately 3yrs now.

I've bought some motors along with just about everything else I need on a week to week basis for the hobby there, simply because of there awesome service !

I to have had a poor motor from them. But how they handled it could not be more different from service you say you've recieved. First I was offered lots of advice on how to set-up the motor and what may cause the problem I was experiencing, By a chap that was actually currently using the same motor in his buggy !! (Although I'd have to agree this isn't always going to happen). When this didn't solve the problem it was suggested I sent it in for them to look at. A week later a brand new mill turned up completely free of charge(as it should be if it was unrepairable), with a note of apology for the trouble, although you can hardly blame them for a faulty motor ?

Simply put a faulty motor isnt the shops fault, although they are your first port of call in getting it fixed ! Your posts would make me think you've found them unhelpfull and I really can't believe that ! Although I have to accept what you've put, It seems unlikely a fresh motor from the factory could make it out the door with so many things wrong.

Rod

Ashalak

First and foremost I work for the shop where the engine was purchased, and infact we are the sole Axe Rossi engine distributor in the UK so we should be your first port of call with any and every technical gremlin, repair query, warranty query or ANY query. I am not sure why you have not contacted us with regards to some of the other issues you've encountered with your engine, but thats your discretion. Its by pure chance I happened to stumble upon this thread, and had I not then I couldn't offer to help you in the way for which you deserve to be helped, this is the service we offer yourself and every other customer.

Firstly you need to send the engine back to us for inspection, with a detailed report of each fault or complaint you have with the engine, along with your name and contact details aswell as a brief over run of how much fuel you've run through the engine, what fuel and along with further details on how you've run it.

If you've any questions I'd be more than happy to help you, just drop me a PM.

deeph

I started this post not to defame your model shop.If you check the emails I've sent there you see.The problem was that I sent more than 20 emails(I don't remember) and I didn't get a reply.So now I am going to finish this thread saying that I finally contacted with the shop.There was a problem and they didn't get my emails.We found a solution that I am very satisfied and I have no problem at all to buy again from there.You see here we don't find these prices and especially this service that Peter offers.
I don't have anything else to say.It was a misunderstanding.
Thank you all for the posts

crazy4wdracer

iTrader: (25)

I have the Axe Rossi Mamba, it is standard glow plug. It runs great, plenty of smooth power.

Mister-E

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys,

I have a question here for my Cobra engine using standard plug.
After running 6 gallons, I think that the pinch is decreasing now.
As a result, when running rich, there is no power.
When leaning it for about 1-2 hours, the power returns, however, I couldn't keep the engine running when refueling during a race and after about 10 minutes, I notice a decrease of power.

Underneath the standard head, the engine is shimmed with 0.3mm.
What happen if I would shim the engine with 0.2 to get the compression back?

Will this prevents the engine flaming out each time I refuel?
What about putting the idle a bit higher?

Thanks for any feedback.

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

Hard to say, but with your compression being lower now, you can try 2 things. Remove the shim like you said and/or use a hotter plug. Still though, once your compression starts to get weak when the engine is hot, its time to replace the P/S/R set or pinch it IMO.

Mister-E

iTrader: (1)

Tx a lot for your feedback.
I have the replacement set already, which is the X1 internals (inc ceramic bearings).

I just have to try removing 1 shim method, since I don't have anytime to break in the engine before the upcoming race.

The main focus is that the engine will not flame out.
Less power, I can live with for this last race day for the "stock Cobra".