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Old 04-17-2008, 06:17 PM   #16
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The nice thing about a Losi is that you can use a team drivers setup, and its just about dialed everywhere. If you notice, the team drivers from Losi really do not change much at all.
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Old 04-17-2008, 06:33 PM   #17
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hmm, the Losi sounds like the winner here for me.
The RTR version has the losi 427 engine in it... now, i know nothing about nitro engines, but would it be good to stick with that one? or buy the kit and put in my own engine? any advice on an engine if i get the kit?

thanks again
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:38 PM   #18
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Congratulations on choosing your car. That is half the battle. It does make sense to buy a car that you can get assistance with at the track.

The easy way out is to buy the RTR but If you buy the kit, you will also have to buy a radio, servos, engine, pipe and a bump box. To answer your question, GO Tech makes an awesome affordable engine and they have great customer service. There is a tread on this forum for those engines. Check it out. They have a race spec and a sport 3 port, a 5 and 7 port. All of them are great engines and range from the $115 - $210.
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:42 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Absolution View Post
hmm, the Losi sounds like the winner here for me.
The RTR version has the losi 427 engine in it... now, i know nothing about nitro engines, but would it be good to stick with that one? or buy the kit and put in my own engine? any advice on an engine if i get the kit?

thanks again
Abso/Mike
Dont get the RTR if your going to race.. Aside from the .26 engine sucking up fuel.. You don't want to have to deal with a shaft start on race day. Those things get dirty and they fail. Get the kit or Race Roller and slap a Go-Tech in there I say Go-Tech because they run with any motor at half the cost. I have the cheapo 3-port in my 8ight and I run with .21 v2's all day. Almost everytime Im at the track a different person is asking me engine I have.

Petevette got it pretty much on the money, The RC8 is fast out of the box and the Losi requires patient tuning. But once you get it to where you can drive it.. it GOES. Just remember to only try one change on the chassis at a time. I've had my 8ight for about 3 weeks now and Just now have it perfect. I'll keep playing with setup to see if I can get faster too.

Other things I've noticed about the RC8.. The FT kit is not built well, you have to tear it down and put it back together right. As opposed to the losi, You can get a RR, drop in your engine and electronics and go race without worrying about it.
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:44 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Dont get the RTR if your going to race.. Aside from the .26 engine sucking up fuel.. You don't want to have to deal with a shaft start on race day. Those things get dirty and they fail. Get the kit or Race Roller and slap a Go-Tech in there I say Go-Tech because they run with any motor at half the cost. I have the cheapo 3-port in my 8ight and I run with .21 v2's all day. Almost everytime Im at the track a different person is asking me engine I have.

Petevette got it pretty much on the money, The RC8 is fast out of the box and the Losi requires patient tuning. But once you get it to where you can drive it.. it GOES. Just remember to only try one change on the chassis at a time. I've had my 8ight for about 3 weeks now and Just now have it perfect. I'll keep playing with setup to see if I can get faster too.

Other things I've noticed about the RC8.. The FT kit is not built well, you have to tear it down and put it back together right. As opposed to the losi, You can get a RR, drop in your engine and electronics and go race without worrying about it.
Pete, ya beat me to the Go recommendation
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Old 04-17-2008, 09:01 PM   #21
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what do the different port #'s on the engines mean?

i think i will buy my own gear and get the race kit...
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Old 04-17-2008, 09:54 PM   #22
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what do the different port #'s on the engines mean?

i think i will buy my own gear and get the race kit...
I really have no idea what the ports mean But in reference to Go motors, The 5 port has more bottom end than the 7 and vice versa. The 3 port race is supposed to be somewhere in between. The 3 port sport has tons of bottom end and not a lot of top end. However, in my experience, the Go 3 sport just rips all over the place.
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Old 04-18-2008, 04:22 PM   #23
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CEN Matrix Buggies are super durable and parts are readily available throughout the US.

You can find a Matrix RTR buggy from around $$350 - $389
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Old 04-18-2008, 04:58 PM   #24
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+1 on the Cen Matrix. It is a very durable and affordible buggy and the RTR can be very competitive by changing the engine to a race legal .21 and swapping out the servos.

Sometimes you can find the Matrix on ebay for $250 - $350.
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Old 04-18-2008, 09:31 PM   #25
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yes, do consider the matrix its an awesome buggy durable fun to drive and very affordable
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:26 PM   #26
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Have you checked out the Caster Racing ZX1-R? That is a awesome buggy and comes as a RTR and kit.

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Old 04-18-2008, 11:24 PM   #27
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Nitrohouse has the RTR losi for $529.00. For that price atleast you can get started.

You cant really get a kit and the needed accessories for less than $1200.00.
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Old 04-18-2008, 11:52 PM   #28
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Nitrohouse has the RTR losi for $529.00. For that price atleast you can get started.

You cant really get a kit and the needed accessories for less than $1200.00.
That depends on what you want... My 8ight/Go-tech combo cost me less than $900. That was one of the main reasons I went with an 8ight, can't beat $420 for a RR.
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:47 AM   #29
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This one will keep up with any of them. I put the red springs on mine and thats it. Still running the same motor cv.21 and stock pipe. Its a tuff kit parts are affordable. I threw some servos and radio to it that I already owned. I had about 350.00 total getting broke in and racing. This will be the second season on it. I'm able to keep up with any kit on the track and next night out I'm going to match it up against some pros. I'm moving up to the expert class.
Its worth every penny if you aren't picky and just want to try it out. This kit is truly as good as any.
It lacks fuel mileage I would recommend the 6.5 air re stricter, and the tank lid is a bit tight at first you have to be sure its closed.
If you want I can fill you in on all the +,-'s on it and what to look out for on it. The steering needs some shimming.
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