Changing diff oils between races?
#1
Changing diff oils between races?
I'm looking for the most efficient way to change oils between races. What are some of the veteran tricks? Do you actually clean out the case thoroughly as well as the gears? If so, what is the best way?
Really dusty tracks makes it hard to keep your area clean. Thanks for the tips.
Really dusty tracks makes it hard to keep your area clean. Thanks for the tips.
#2
I have multiple diff's made (F,C & R) with different weight so I just swap out the diff unit......
#4
Funny you both mention that as I have thought about doing just that. Do you mark your diffs? If so what with? Is it easy to wipe off the markings?
#5
With a fine tip "silver" sharpie. I just right down the first number of the fluid. IE 5000 = 5, etc, etc....
#6
Nitro spray tends to remove the silver sharpie after a while, though. I tend to do my re-building during the week so that I'm not rushed at the track. Plus, I'd rather keep the internals as clean as possible, so no re-building at the track unless absolutely necessary.
As far as removing diff fluid, I use one of the GMK Diff Dunkers with a jar of VM & P Naptha from the local Home Depot or Lowes (in the paint department). Just swirl the parts around for 1 - 2 minutes and they come out like new. It's about the only thing that removes silicone diff fluid qucikly and easily.
#7
Sounds good guys. I just read up on Naphta the other day. Just got done cleaning my 8t thoroughly and am now puttin together. Thanks for the tips.
#8
Just to add to all the great ideas above , mark the frnt diff. with an F/5000 and the rear with R/2000 ,because they look the same .however I know the losi 8ight diffs you can tell. Just a little added measure
#9
Tech Regular
iTrader: (31)
+1
Nitro spray tends to remove the silver sharpie after a while, though. I tend to do my re-building during the week so that I'm not rushed at the track. Plus, I'd rather keep the internals as clean as possible, so no re-building at the track unless absolutely necessary.
As far as removing diff fluid, I use one of the GMK Diff Dunkers with a jar of VM & P Naptha from the local Home Depot or Lowes (in the paint department). Just swirl the parts around for 1 - 2 minutes and they come out like new. It's about the only thing that removes silicone diff fluid qucikly and easily.
Nitro spray tends to remove the silver sharpie after a while, though. I tend to do my re-building during the week so that I'm not rushed at the track. Plus, I'd rather keep the internals as clean as possible, so no re-building at the track unless absolutely necessary.
As far as removing diff fluid, I use one of the GMK Diff Dunkers with a jar of VM & P Naptha from the local Home Depot or Lowes (in the paint department). Just swirl the parts around for 1 - 2 minutes and they come out like new. It's about the only thing that removes silicone diff fluid qucikly and easily.
#10
i use an ultra sonic cleaner which is used to clean jewelery nad can be bought for about 100 bucks at any tool store.
I fill it with mineral spirits and take the diff apart and stick it inside, turn it on for 5 minutes and it comes out like its fresh out of the package.
The ultrasonic cleaner isnt that big, but i only haul it to a big race.
I fill it with mineral spirits and take the diff apart and stick it inside, turn it on for 5 minutes and it comes out like its fresh out of the package.
The ultrasonic cleaner isnt that big, but i only haul it to a big race.
#11
i use an ultra sonic cleaner which is used to clean jewelery nad can be bought for about 100 bucks at any tool store.
I fill it with mineral spirits and take the diff apart and stick it inside, turn it on for 5 minutes and it comes out like its fresh out of the package.
The ultrasonic cleaner isnt that big, but i only haul it to a big race.
I fill it with mineral spirits and take the diff apart and stick it inside, turn it on for 5 minutes and it comes out like its fresh out of the package.
The ultrasonic cleaner isnt that big, but i only haul it to a big race.
i always thought those would be more expensive.....good to know there not...Im definatly gonna look into 1 for my bench top. ..any tips on a good model ?.....I currently use the same method as CarbonJoe with the diff dunker and Iosol...Ive hijacked soo many of the mom's laundry cups she freaks when she see's them all out with parts and Screw's in them and says " That's where all my laundry cups are".
#12
Here are a few inexpensive ones. Make sure you get one with a stainless steel tank, so that it can handle the solvents.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3305
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93035
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3305
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93035
#13
Here are a few inexpensive ones. Make sure you get one with a stainless steel tank, so that it can handle the solvents.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3305
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93035
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3305
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93035
is size a concern ? i mean id be nice to be able to fit truggy lower arms and junk in too......maby a whole truggy wing.....damn maby the whole truggy...HAH. j/k
#14
Tech Regular
iTrader: (31)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91957
I'm sure someone else sells something bigger, but its probably not cheap. Then again the one above isn't cheap either.
#15
i use the one on the second link...it has come down in price since i bought it, only 60 bucks now.
that one is big enough to do All the drive shafts, diffs etc.. i have never used it on any arms or anything.. not sure it would be good for them becuase it does get it fairly hot.
that one is big enough to do All the drive shafts, diffs etc.. i have never used it on any arms or anything.. not sure it would be good for them becuase it does get it fairly hot.