8ight-t RTR racing Novice upgrades
#1
8ight-t RTR racing Novice upgrades
What's the first thing you'd recommend to upgrade on the 8ight-t RTR for someone entering novice class? I've heard the plastic shock caps are kinda crappy and will break. Any other weak points or simple performance robbing compenents that should go that are not a complete overhall?
I know I can go out and spend 450 bucks on a killer engine, but that's not what I'm wanting to know, just things that a novice class racer would want to consider swapping that are weak points or inhibit performance.
I've already put a set of 5645MG servos in, not the highest end servo, but an improvement none the less. Thats kind of info is what I'm looking for.
I know I can go out and spend 450 bucks on a killer engine, but that's not what I'm wanting to know, just things that a novice class racer would want to consider swapping that are weak points or inhibit performance.
I've already put a set of 5645MG servos in, not the highest end servo, but an improvement none the less. Thats kind of info is what I'm looking for.
#2
No b/s here all i did was put oil in my diffs and last season i didn't break a single part. Rember that most dirt tracks don't have walls they have black tubbing that is easily driven over. my suggestion run it stock and mod it once you break it.
#3
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
An extended quick change engine mount to reduce some flex in the center of the chassis. This will help gear mesh stay consistent as well as reduce the load put on the clutch bearings from the chassis flex. Plus you will be able to inspect your clutch shoes and bearings with no hassle. You can pull the engine quickly inspect the clutch parts and get it back on the chassis with in a few minutes. have you read about the captured steering linkage mod? That's a good one for racers just starting out.
--Put something under your RX battery. The screw hole will wear on your battery. Foam, lexan, several paper towels, etc...
--Use heatshrink on your center CVDs where they bolt to the front/rear pinions.
--Check your end point adjustments on your radio for steering and throttle. Don't let the servos over travel. They will burn up no matter what type of vehicle you run.
--Check the carb travel. You want the carb to move in and out as straight as possible. Any front to back or up and down movement will cause strain on the throttle servo. So try to get the servo to pull/push the carb as straight as possible.
--Use some loctite on the servo saver adjusting nut. That has backed out on some people causing sluggish steering
--Change the diff grease to diff fluid. You will appreciated this once you start racing.
This should get you started and others will post the things I haven't yet.
--Put something under your RX battery. The screw hole will wear on your battery. Foam, lexan, several paper towels, etc...
--Use heatshrink on your center CVDs where they bolt to the front/rear pinions.
--Check your end point adjustments on your radio for steering and throttle. Don't let the servos over travel. They will burn up no matter what type of vehicle you run.
--Check the carb travel. You want the carb to move in and out as straight as possible. Any front to back or up and down movement will cause strain on the throttle servo. So try to get the servo to pull/push the carb as straight as possible.
--Use some loctite on the servo saver adjusting nut. That has backed out on some people causing sluggish steering
--Change the diff grease to diff fluid. You will appreciated this once you start racing.
This should get you started and others will post the things I haven't yet.
#4
Those are good ones!
Other things I have done so far.
I have already replaced diff grease with fluid 7, 10, 3 as an initial start, forgot to mention that.
I have adjusted end points, learned that with helis, that is an important one to remember.
I removed the battery case cap and dremeled slots in the tray to strap it down with velcro straps, I will definetely put some more neopreme down under the battery.
I have some new shock fluid I haven't put in yet, but will once I start practicing and kind of get a feel for what weight is needed.
Going with 2 set of tires. Hole shots and crim fighters. Hope those get me by for at lease 4 weeks of racing.
I have my car cleaning recipe to keep it clean and inspected during racing.
Keep em coming...
Other things I have done so far.
I have already replaced diff grease with fluid 7, 10, 3 as an initial start, forgot to mention that.
I have adjusted end points, learned that with helis, that is an important one to remember.
I removed the battery case cap and dremeled slots in the tray to strap it down with velcro straps, I will definetely put some more neopreme down under the battery.
I have some new shock fluid I haven't put in yet, but will once I start practicing and kind of get a feel for what weight is needed.
Going with 2 set of tires. Hole shots and crim fighters. Hope those get me by for at lease 4 weeks of racing.
I have my car cleaning recipe to keep it clean and inspected during racing.
Keep em coming...
#5
Those are good ones!
Other things I have done so far.
I have already replaced diff grease with fluid 7, 10, 3 as an initial start, forgot to mention that.
I have adjusted end points, learned that with helis, that is an important one to remember.
I removed the battery case cap and dremeled slots in the tray to strap it down with velcro straps, I will definetely put some more neopreme down under the battery.
I have some new shock fluid I haven't put in yet, but will once I start practicing and kind of get a feel for what weight is needed.
Going with 2 set of tires. Hole shots and crim fighters. Hope those get me by for at lease 4 weeks of racing.
I have my car cleaning recipe to keep it clean and inspected during racing.
Keep em coming...
Other things I have done so far.
I have already replaced diff grease with fluid 7, 10, 3 as an initial start, forgot to mention that.
I have adjusted end points, learned that with helis, that is an important one to remember.
I removed the battery case cap and dremeled slots in the tray to strap it down with velcro straps, I will definetely put some more neopreme down under the battery.
I have some new shock fluid I haven't put in yet, but will once I start practicing and kind of get a feel for what weight is needed.
Going with 2 set of tires. Hole shots and crim fighters. Hope those get me by for at lease 4 weeks of racing.
I have my car cleaning recipe to keep it clean and inspected during racing.
Keep em coming...
I as well have an rtr 8t turned racer. Upgrade your sevos ASAP. High torque for steering {at least 200 oz. or more}. On your servo saver nut back it off a tad from flush to let the spring move a little more. I have gone through 3 servos and have gotten some advice on this. Check the servo saver often to prevent binding. I have king headz tray stiffeners as the chassi flex is to much for me. Definatly get the Kingheadz extended engine mount. Best buy yet. Upgrade your stock shock tops for aluminum. KEEP YOUR CAR CLEAN AND NEAT My next purchase will be the race roller chassi. Have a blast
#6
Tech Initiate
Keep an eye on the clutch it needs more maint. than anything I've had yet.File off the crap lube the bearings.Mine was shimmed way to tite from factory and I found 2 shocks with air in them.
#7
Also make sure you give the stock XTT tires a try before swapping them for prolines. The stock ones work VERY well on just about any type of surface.