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Old 04-13-2008, 07:22 AM   #1
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Default Blowing servos

I have had some challenges with steering servos. I just blew a JR 9000 yesterday at the track. The steering is set so it doesn't over work itself. I have the tray off the truggy and servos are on JR rubber gaskets to help with absorbing bumps. I know anything can happen in racing but $109 a pop get's expensive. I'll send this into JR to get repaired.

Any tips would be appreciated.
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Old 04-13-2008, 09:36 AM   #2
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First question is 9000T or 9000S.

I supppose either would do but the 9000T is designed for high torque applications, 291 oz/in at 4.8v. The 9000S is 112 oz/in at 4.8v.
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Old 04-13-2008, 09:57 AM   #3
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If the servo wasn't defective, than you should re-check your end point adjustments. Is that the first hi quality servo you blow?
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Old 04-13-2008, 10:16 AM   #4
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If the servo wasn't defective, than you should re-check your end point adjustments. Is that the first hi quality servo you blow?
Spektrum transmitter
end points set at 1oo L,R. full would be 125L,R
First high end servo I've blown
9000T high torque
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Old 04-13-2008, 10:38 AM   #5
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Question for you: how hard is your servo saver spring set? I ask because I have the buggy, and the stock recommended setting is a tad too hard, and a few people have stripped their horns as a result. Just another possible culprit.
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Old 04-13-2008, 10:46 AM   #6
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I have a buddy that went through three steering servos last season, while I'm running the same one this year I started last year on.

He tends to drive with a heavy hand, in that he's always trying to run as wide open as he can including going over jumps sideways and wrecks all the time - I nicknamed him WOB (wide open bob) - while I feel as if have a reasonable semblance of throttle control, will roll a jump if my run-in is offline, and seldom wreck.

I tended to attribute his troubles in blowing them up last year to overstressing the servo because his wheels seldom hit straight on landing a jump and were usually cocked to one side or the other.

If his style more resembles your own than mine does, then I'd tend to want to blame you instead of the servo.

JMHO, no offense intended...........
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Old 04-13-2008, 03:04 PM   #7
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You said it was in a Lousi 8T well then you need to do one of two things , get a new truggy or pay very very close attension to the servo saver !!
this is the part that causes all the stress on the servo so MAKE SURE it's not worn and works super smooth. Or better yet get a Kyosho ,the money saved on servosavers and servos will more than offset the extra costs LOL .
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Old 04-13-2008, 03:28 PM   #8
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get a kyosho ....what blew up on the servo ? did it just stop ? did u blo the gears ? did u even inspect before sending it away ?..i have yett to blo a servo in either of my 8ight's...i did however rebuild my linkages to my likings and frequently test everything to be Butter Smooth.....i go as far as to Polish my linkage rods to Make Darn sure nothing's binding.
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Old 04-13-2008, 06:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
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get a kyosho ....what blew up on the servo ? did it just stop ? did u blo the gears ? did u even inspect before sending it away ?..i have yett to blo a servo in either of my 8ight's...i did however rebuild my linkages to my likings and frequently test everything to be Butter Smooth.....i go as far as to Polish my linkage rods to Make Darn sure nothing's binding.
The gears actually looked ok. When I hold the top of the servo where horn goes it just stays while the gears move. I'm not an expert at all when it comes to servos. My servo saver is set perfect and the nut is locked tight flush as it's supposed to be. I tear my car down everytime I drive it to inspect and clean.
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Old 04-13-2008, 06:35 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captain america View Post
Question for you: how hard is your servo saver spring set? I ask because I have the buggy, and the stock recommended setting is a tad too hard, and a few people have stripped their horns as a result. Just another possible culprit.
So if I'm not to set it flush how far off should I be?
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Old 04-13-2008, 08:00 PM   #11
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hey JGtuggy it's sounds like the gear set is gone and was more than likely caused by the servo saver being to tight or just a really hard hit to the steering. setting the servo saver can be a real pain, too loose and you've got no steering and too tight and you could end up with no servo gears. best thing you can do is talk to guys at your local track running the same brand and see where they are at, as I could tell you how mine is set up and it might be completely wrong due to the different track conditions

Quote:
Originally Posted by mremtr View Post
You said it was in a Lousi 8T well then you need to do one of two things , get a new truggy or pay very very close attension to the servo saver !!
this is the part that causes all the stress on the servo so MAKE SURE it's not worn and works super smooth. Or better yet get a Kyosho ,the money saved on servosavers and servos will more than offset the extra costs LOL .
It's a shame you mixed your good advice in with an insult of the brand he (or she) drives, some of you K car boys are getting all upset over opinions of the K car so why insult other brands to make yourself feel bigger

you gotta love hypocrytes on forums

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Old 04-13-2008, 08:15 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by jgtruggy View Post
So if I'm not to set it flush how far off should I be?

I have my servo saver nut set at about 4 turns out from dead tight against the spring. I tried the stock setting (2.5 turns out I think) but it was so tight, and prevented the servo saver from activating under a heavy load. Mind you, I have a buggy while you have a truggy with heavier wheels and a heavier vehicle altogether, so you may have to fiddle a bit.

Either way, you're better off having it a bit loose than too tight.
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Old 04-13-2008, 10:14 PM   #13
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Thanks for all the replys so far.

If anyone running an 8t can tell me their servo nut setting I'd appreciate it. My nut is flush right now as it says to set in the manual. I have the aluminum servo saver horn.

Thanks
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