First impressions of my 3 port Go-Tech. (non R spec)
04-01-2008, 09:42 PM
#1
First impressions of my 3 port Go-Tech. (non R spec)
So I recently picked up a new 3 port Go tech. I went with a budget engine for 2 reasons. My local track is small, and I had to stay under $800.00 to start out this season For a new buggy servos and misc items. All I can say about this motor is OMFG! From break in to running it on the track it performed perfectly and did everything I wanted it to in regards to needle inputs. and it is fast... Faster than a $115 motor should be. Once I got to tanks 9 and 10 I started to lean it out and.. It was literally uncontrollable. I really had to back-off down the straight.. I even tried rolling on the throttle gradually and the tires were breaking loose halfway down the back straight. Mind you, the track was dusty and dry.. But I didn't have that issue the day before running a HPI .28.
So if your in the market for a budget motor, I strongly suggest buying the 3 port Go tech. (non Race) and if anyone is curious I'm running O'Donnell 20%. I also found that a v-spec carb reducer fits in it.. so that should help with traction.
So if your in the market for a budget motor, I strongly suggest buying the 3 port Go tech. (non Race) and if anyone is curious I'm running O'Donnell 20%. I also found that a v-spec carb reducer fits in it.. so that should help with traction.
04-01-2008, 10:03 PM
#3
04-01-2008, 10:49 PM
#4
if your going too stick with 20% after a gallon you can take out the thinner of the 2, that will put the squish at the lowest you want to be at, but after you get quite a few gallons on the engine just check once in a while to be sure the head button and piston aren't pitting, if you see some signs odf this place the shim back in, the motor is set out of the box to run 30%, but just keep and eye on it, i would probably just leave it in unless the timming was modded, otherwise if you like the way it feels just enjoy it, if you have one try using an 086 pipe on that engine it's real nice
04-01-2008, 11:11 PM
#5
if your going too stick with 20% after a gallon you can take out the thinner of the 2, that will put the squish at the lowest you want to be at, but after you get quite a few gallons on the engine just check once in a while to be sure the head button and piston aren't pitting, if you see some signs odf this place the shim back in, the motor is set out of the box to run 30%, but just keep and eye on it, i would probably just leave it in unless the timming was modded, otherwise if you like the way it feels just enjoy it, if you have one try using an 086 pipe on that engine it's real nice
What will an 086 pipe do for me? All I could benefit from now is a more gradual power band. But otherwise, this thing is beast with my JP2.
04-01-2008, 11:28 PM
#6
with the 086, you will smooth out the bottom some, so you won't be spinning sideways in the middle of the strait lol, you will feel more in controll with it and have even stronger top end, oh and you can also use the GO turbo head button on that engine
04-02-2008, 08:01 AM
#8
what kind of differnece will this create?
04-02-2008, 08:22 AM
#9
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/16977
he can conver it to turbo using this:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/10573 (I think)
by using turbo plugs, I've read that you get better gas economy, bit more power and more consistant glow plugs.
04-02-2008, 08:23 AM
#10
Registered User
Hey Furadi, what buggy, servos, and radio did you get? I have a buddy with the same budget and I am trying to help him out in choosing the best he can get for the money
04-02-2008, 10:01 AM
#11
Well, I already had a radio and decent throttle servo. So bought an 8ight, hitec servo.. forget the number but its digital, .14 transit, 130 oz. and the go-tech. But I also bought tires, tools and other various items.
04-02-2008, 10:25 AM
#12
what's the difference though bewteeen a non race and and a sport?
04-02-2008, 11:13 AM
#13
Well, the sport would be considered an RTR engine or a basher engine. Where as the R is built for racing. It probably makes more HP, has a composite carb and I don't know what else. I just know for a 'sport' engine, the normal 3 port is PLENTY.. at least for my small track.
As for your earlier question about carb inserts and traction.. Carb inserts would help with traction by limiting the power. Its just a piece of plastic that sits inside your carb throat and they usually come in sizes of 6 - 8 mm. They also improve fuel economy.
As for your earlier question about carb inserts and traction.. Carb inserts would help with traction by limiting the power. Its just a piece of plastic that sits inside your carb throat and they usually come in sizes of 6 - 8 mm. They also improve fuel economy.
04-02-2008, 12:18 PM
#14
It is a Restrictor Plate, just like Nascar runs at Taladega, and Daytona... Just smaller size...
It just restricts the power of the motor, thus making it easier to drive, and the throttle won't snap as hard when you get on it.
Nascars could run 215-220MPH at Daytona and Taladega easily, but the restrict them down to 190-195 for safety... He is not restricting his buggy for safety, he is restricting it because he doesn't need high end power, and he wants it to be more driveable.
-Brandon
It just restricts the power of the motor, thus making it easier to drive, and the throttle won't snap as hard when you get on it.
Nascars could run 215-220MPH at Daytona and Taladega easily, but the restrict them down to 190-195 for safety... He is not restricting his buggy for safety, he is restricting it because he doesn't need high end power, and he wants it to be more driveable.
-Brandon
04-02-2008, 08:58 PM
#15
I was suprised when I took a Go 3 port Sport apart. I was expecting a cheaper crank and other internals. It has the same crank rod, piston and block as all the Go motors with a little less machining on the block. It has a different head and the sleeve has more basic cuts, and an aluminum carb. With a little modding I bet one of these would run as strong as a 3 port race spec!
Rex
Rex