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Old 04-14-2008, 08:04 AM   #31
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If you crank down the servo saver all the way, it will transmit all the shock to the steering components, allowing more breakage. You have to have enough room for the servo saver part to move.
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:12 AM   #32
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If you crank down the servo saver all the way, it will tranmit all the shock to the steering components, allowing more breakage. You have to have enough room for the servo saver part to move.
Yup, have it all the way down Guess I did that because my Losi one always backed out on me, even with red loctight.

I was also wondering what oil is #700 and #800 in Losi oil. I put the Lutz setup on the truck when I built it but all I have is Losi oil and the LHS is 1 hour away, so I had to use what I had. I ended up using 40wt all around which I suspect was a bit too soft, but the truck still felt dialed.

Oh, when I meant "Much" harder, I plowed a wall at very high speed with my Losi 2 different times when my servo saver spring decided to back out
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:25 AM   #33
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Losi 40Wt is 500 CTS or CPS. Also in Associated, its 37.5 WT. I believe Assoicated 55 WT is 725 CTS and 60WT is 800. Try this site, but also keep in mind that if you use one brand, stay with that brand to keep the viscosity of the oils consistent, as you will see they are all different.

http://www.twf8.ws/php/index.php?opt...per&Itemid=175
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:31 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by KRCRacer22 View Post
I'm not sure if it was a bad batch or what happened but be aware that Kyosho is aware of the 'problem' and steps are being taken to 'correct' the part.
Thanks for the info. Isn't this the same arm as the ST-R? Will we know if\when Kyosho updates the part? Only asking as Losi is famous for releasing updated parts and you find out when you buy them (LST2 Arms, diff gears, high speed conversion come to mind). LOL, as you can tell I've only owned Losi trucks. Sorry to keep comparing them to Kyosho This ST-RR is my first Kyosho.

Thanks again
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Old 04-14-2008, 04:35 PM   #35
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Ryan, Just curious if 700 up front and 800 in the back is a standard set up you use for your shock oil on the ST-RR, and if that’s what you were running this weekend at Revelation? You had the northwest section of the track dialed and it seemed to be giving others problems.

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Old 04-14-2008, 07:38 PM   #36
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I have the 700 frnt 800 rear kyosho oil setup , its very good,to me. Just do some warm up laps before you judge the setup ,because it will feel a little hard in the rear at first,when the shock oil warms up its golden .just my take on it.
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Old 04-15-2008, 07:35 AM   #37
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I have the 700 frnt 800 rear kyosho oil setup , its very good,to me. Just do some warm up laps before you judge the setup ,because it will feel a little hard in the rear at first,when the shock oil warms up its golden .just my take on it.
Does your trug feel real loose in the corners running a weight that heavy in the back? It seems like the rear end would break loose real easy.
I guess it would make sense after watching Ryan on Saturday. It looked like he was powering into the turns real hard, no break and whipping it around the apex and charging out, while others were breaking real hard into the turn and rolling them.
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:02 AM   #38
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Does your trug feel real loose in the corners running a weight that heavy in the back? It seems like the rear end would break loose real easy.
I guess it would make sense after watching Ryan on Saturday. It looked like he was powering into the turns real hard, no break and whipping it around the apex and charging out, while others were breaking real hard into the turn and rolling them.
Actually believe it or not even with 800 in the rear and 700 up front the rear still feels softer. The longer shocks have that effect i guess.

Also believe it or not I do use brakes in every corner. It goes like this-
Full gas, full brake (split second worth), Full Gas!

700ft 800rear feels great in the truggy. (I actually run 700 front, 750 rear generally)
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Old 04-17-2008, 07:30 AM   #39
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Im looking for info on this sirio clb7 sti. Just need to know what the starting point is for the needles (H&L). I was asked this the other day and couldnt find anything on it and I realy dont want to screw mine in and then back them out, but if I have to I have too. Thanks.
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Old 04-29-2008, 07:06 PM   #40
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Not sure if I should start a new thread. Well, got a few more race days on my ST-RR and a few more questions.

1. All my shocks just seem sloppy, there seems to be allot of play when moving the shock shaft. I've torn them down 2 times and must be missing something as they seem fine. Are they just this way? My 8T shocks have some play in them, but the ST-RR shocks have double that. I went through the manual and made sure it is exactly as the manual says to do.

2. I have broken 5 caster blocks or whatever they are called (20 and 22 degree) now. I think the problem is that the screw that holds them on falls out. I've tried red loctite 2 times now and the bottom screw keeps falling out. Once it falls out then it allows it to bind and break. To me the screw seems to be a few mm too short. Anyone else have this problem?

3. More of a setup issue here, truck feels more like it is real wheel drive. Diffs are all smooth and the shafts are all connected. Just seems to be too much power to the rear. What do I need to correct this?

4. Another setup issue. When going through any tight turns on a hard clay track the truck seems to enter the corner fine but about mid way through or a little later the truck just seems to totally break loose in the rear and have super steering. Kinda hard to describe I guess.

Other than than, truck has been good. Only thing that sucks is parts support, have to wait until race day to fix my truck.

Thanks
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Old 04-30-2008, 07:09 AM   #41
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i just had my first race on my st-rr and it was flawless. first year running truggy and i set fast lap ofthe day. now i need consistency. but i was able to compete with the good guys at our track. i did break a c hub also but i think if you use one of Lutz setups you will be fine. just a few tweeks to suit you driving style. but a great base set up.
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Old 04-30-2008, 08:02 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by LosiSuperTruck View Post
Not sure if I should start a new thread. Well, got a few more race days on my ST-RR and a few more questions.

1. All my shocks just seem sloppy, there seems to be allot of play when moving the shock shaft. I've torn them down 2 times and must be missing something as they seem fine. Are they just this way? My 8T shocks have some play in them, but the ST-RR shocks have double that. I went through the manual and made sure it is exactly as the manual says to do. So long as the plastic bushing isn't warped on the bottom of the shock it shouldn't be of concern.

2. I have broken 5 caster blocks or whatever they are called (20 and 22 degree) now. I think the problem is that the screw that holds them on falls out. I've tried red loctite 2 times now and the bottom screw keeps falling out. Once it falls out then it allows it to bind and break. To me the screw seems to be a few mm too short. Anyone else have this problem? I would recommend running the 22* blocks for the most part. For some reason the Geometry of the 20* blocks lends them to cracking more often on the truck. Also be sure to put the loctite on the knuckle threads before you put the screw in. If you think the screw is too short than use a longer one! ;-)

3. More of a setup issue here, truck feels more like it is real wheel drive. Diffs are all smooth and the shafts are all connected. Just seems to be too much power to the rear. What do I need to correct this? Rear wheel drive? What are you using for diff oils? I could understand front wheel drive feel but not quite sure on a rear wheel drive feel?

4. Another setup issue. When going through any tight turns on a hard clay track the truck seems to enter the corner fine but about mid way through or a little later the truck just seems to totally break loose in the rear and have super steering. Kinda hard to describe I guess. What's your rear diff oil? What's your rear toe?

Other than than, truck has been good. Only thing that sucks is parts support, have to wait until race day to fix my truck. do you have a local hobby shop to the track that you race at? If so please supply me there information and we'll see if we can't stock them on some Kyosho Parts! ;-)

Thanks
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Old 04-30-2008, 08:03 AM   #43
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i just had my first race on my st-rr and it was flawless. first year running truggy and i set fast lap ofthe day. now i need consistency. but i was able to compete with the good guys at our track. i did break a c hub also but i think if you use one of Lutz setups you will be fine. just a few tweeks to suit you driving style. but a great base set up.
My set-up on the website using a 10-15-2 diff fluid set-up is pretty easy to drive everywhere.
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Old 06-12-2008, 10:44 PM   #44
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Just thought I would update this as I now know what my problem was. I hope this helps some new\potential ST-RR owners. I felt the last few posts might have left people with the wrong impression.

Turns out the knuckle was stripped and only 1 thread was holding the screw in. So it made it feel like I was getting it tight, but as soon as I hit the track it would fall out. So the screw would fall out and then cause binding and then snap the caster block. I wasted 2 race weekends with this issue.

I bought the Fioroni upgraded knuckles as that is all the LHS had at the time. So now I have 5 full race weekends on this setup with no problems at all, no broken parts, nothing but turning fast laps

I would highly recommend that anyone who buys this truck does them self a big favor and throws those stock knuckles in the trash before they ever get on the truck. Buying the upgraded knuckles will be the best $70 you spent on this truck.

Personally I would rather pay more for the kit and have these knuckles (and maybe a hex head screw kit) included. I think most people end up buying them anyway

My friend got his ST-RR 2 weeks after me. Only he bought a new motor as well so he broke that motor in the first time his ST-RR seen the track. Only half way through the first tank his screw came out of his knuckle too. He had so much loctite the screw didn't even fall out of the caster block, just pulled out of the knuckle. He was lucky it happened then. In my case I has a well broken in motor I dropped in and started to race immediately.

Then 2 weeks later another friend of mine had the same thing happen to him while racing. Luckily it was the side that I did not strip so he was able to finish the day. Then he upgraded.

My first impression of the truck wasn't all that good because of this issue. I must say I am now very happy now that this issue has been solved. I fear this might also turn other new ST-RR owners away from the truck. This is now my favorite truck, I was alway a monster trucker, always raced them with the truggies, but the new ST-RR has made me forget about the MT

Also I have been running the 20 degree blocks with no issues, it was the screw issue, not the 20 degree blocks, at least so far

My only issue now is all these parts that are back ordered Front A-arms anyone? I wanted some for my next big race but my Kyosho rep said they are back ordered, along with a few other things.
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Old 06-12-2008, 11:28 PM   #45
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Use some red loctite on the screws that go into the knuckles. That should solve the problem. Also, Kyosho has a nice set of CNC knuckles with a plastic insert to seat the bearings if you want to upgrade.

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