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Old 04-05-2008, 09:06 AM   #16
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A-main has them
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Old 04-07-2008, 10:32 PM   #17
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Any good tutorials with photos on how to properly shim these diffs?
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Old 04-08-2008, 04:29 AM   #18
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I should have my truggy to day, an I'm gonna wight to build it. I want to here more about the diff. shims be for I do it. Thanks for the post.
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Old 04-08-2008, 08:43 AM   #19
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I would have to say that the st-rr a-arms do break often. But IF you boil them in water you will have less problems with them breaking. I had the str and a few friends have the st-rr and they do break easily
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Old 04-08-2008, 10:05 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer322 View Post
I should have my truggy to day, an I'm gonna wight to build it. I want to here more about the diff. shims be for I do it. Thanks for the post.
The ST-RR instructions went into details about how to correctly setup the ring and pinion backlash. It mentions about the break-in period also.

As a side note, I have always setup ring and pinions in RC cars exactly how Kyosho now states in the ST-RR manual. Its just something you do with actual real car diffs and transmissions that most don't know. Most brands don't mention diff shims at all.
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Old 04-08-2008, 04:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezveedub View Post
The ST-RR instructions went into details about how to correctly setup the ring and pinion backlash. It mentions about the break-in period also.

As a side note, I have always setup ring and pinions in RC cars exactly how Kyosho now states in the ST-RR manual. Its just something you do with actual real car diffs and transmissions that most don't know. Most brands don't mention diff shims at all.

Here's a link to truggyracers-there is an excellent step by step in the build tips if the link does not work. BE SURE TO PUT SHIMS ON THE PINION GEAR, OR IN BETWEEN THE PINION BEARINGS. I purchased my truck used and had a problem after 2 races-then replaced the geard and shimmed them according to this process and now have 4 gallons and counting on the diffs.
Other than that just watch out for the fuel tank if your track has extremely large jumps or you have a few extremely rough landings. The STRR is a dream to drive.
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Old 04-14-2008, 05:56 AM   #22
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hey Ryan, how important is upgrading the servo saver spring? and are people just using the 8 hole pistons on the buggy, or on the truggy also
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:10 AM   #23
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Does anyone make a hopupped up Hub carrier for this truck? What about arms?

I took my truck out for the first time and found out the hard way that the guys saying this truck is brittle were correct

First time I broke both the right front hub carrier and arm. (What is the easiest way to change arms, very difficult to get that inner hinge pin out and put eclip back on). Second wreck was the truck doing endos and broke the right front hub carrier again and both screws snapped the conned the steering rods to the steering plate. I was using Tony's screws.

I liked the way the truck drove, but this appears to be a very expensive truck to drive. I hope someone makes hop ups for this. I'm going to try to boil the parts next time, if they still snap like twigs then I'll stick with my Losi. It doesn't drive as good, but I've yet to break a part on it with MUCH harder crashes.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:31 AM   #24
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it funny that it sounds like its hit or miss with arm breakage. i have yet to break any thing on my truck. and trust me i have had some tumbles. i wonder if they had a bad batch of arms or something.???
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:42 AM   #25
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Yeah it must be intermittent with parts breaking. Iíve had my ST-RR for about 5 months now and Iíve only broke one suspension arm. But that was user error, I clipped the wall after the back straight at Revelation. It was a solid hit, so a broken suspension arm was understandable. Other then that, the thing has been solid!
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:46 AM   #26
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Take the front bumper off, then slide the arm off the front.

You broke the screws on the steering rack? That must have been some serious hits! I've driven my ST-R for over a year and haven't broken a front arm. This has to be the toughest truck I've seen on the track. Maybe it's because you are going so much faster with the Kyosho so it's putting more energy into the crashes...
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:52 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sp2thielen View Post
hey Ryan, how important is upgrading the servo saver spring? and are people just using the 8 hole pistons on the buggy, or on the truggy also
It seems like it is a viable upgrade. Not necessary right away, but especially if your on a higher traction track and you feel like the wheels aren't staying fully steered when your going through a corner then it may be time to upgrade to the stronger spring package.

8-hole pistons are more of a buggy thing. I ran them at the Nitro challenge on the truck and while they felt good, i just don't think they had enough "pack" for the truggy. Now if the track didn't have a whole lot of big jumps and was very rough / had a nice choppy rythm secton then I think they would be dialed! ;-)
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:56 AM   #28
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I've used that newer servo saver spring on the buggy also. Stock WC one felt it was compressing under hard turns.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:58 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swen View Post
Take the front bumper off, then slide the arm off the front.

You broke the screws on the steering rack? That must have been some serious hits! I've driven my ST-R for over a year and haven't broken a front arm. This has to be the toughest truck I've seen on the track. Maybe it's because you are going so much faster with the Kyosho so it's putting more energy into the crashes...
Maybe I had moved up to 3rd before that happened.

Yes, both screws. But that crash was simply clipping a tube with the left front that sent the truck doing cartwheels down the straight

I do race on hard packed clay indoors, so the surface is much harder than outdoor tracks.

Also I bought the stiffer servo saver spring and have it cranked all the way down, wonder if that caused the problem?

Either way, I'm going to try and make this truck work for me. I turns so nice
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:59 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LosiSuperTruck View Post
Does anyone make a hopupped up Hub carrier for this truck? What about arms?

I took my truck out for the first time and found out the hard way that the guys saying this truck is brittle were correct

First time I broke both the right front hub carrier and arm. (What is the easiest way to change arms, very difficult to get that inner hinge pin out and put eclip back on). Second wreck was the truck doing endos and broke the right front hub carrier again and both screws snapped the conned the steering rods to the steering plate. I was using Tony's screws.

I liked the way the truck drove, but this appears to be a very expensive truck to drive. I hope someone makes hop ups for this. I'm going to try to boil the parts next time, if they still snap like twigs then I'll stick with my Losi. It doesn't drive as good, but I've yet to break a part on it with MUCH harder crashes.
By hub carrier i take it your talking the front caster blocks. One thing I have noticed is that the 20 degee blocks seem to have some sort of bind in the vehicle. If you run the 22 degee blocks they are less prone to breakage. As far as the arms, yes I would suggest to boil it. I'm not sure if it was a bad batch or what happend but be aware that Kyosho is aware of the 'problem' and steps are being taken to 'correct' the part.

Also for reference you can't compare one crash to another. Who's to say the the endo's the truck was doing weren't more violent then any other time. All it takes is hitting something at the right ...welll, wrong angle and any vehicle can break.
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