MST-1 Owners Post Here!
08-03-2003, 10:02 PM
#46
Originally posted by FREAKAH
I'll get one if you will stop hitting me on the track!
I'll get one if you will stop hitting me on the track!
08-04-2003, 08:43 PM
#47
Rear Ride Height
One of the most sensitive adjustments - well at least it is for me
Has anyone experimented with their rear ride heights or settled for the "out of the box" setting of "bones level"?
Has anyone experimented with their rear ride heights or settled for the "out of the box" setting of "bones level"?
08-04-2003, 08:56 PM
#48
Tech Initiate
rear needs to be above level to work properly
08-04-2003, 09:15 PM
#49
I've read it works best on this truck with drive bones at or just above level. I drilled out both front and rear pistons to 1.6mm, using 25 wt losi shock oil front / rear, kit springs, 3mm spacer front, 15mm spacers rear. This worked very well for my local track, rutted and bumpy with some rather large jumps, it flew perfectly straight! I just ordered some grey springs, I'm going to try those in the rear for a little more height and spring.
Question, those of you that may have bought this truck with the mt12 engine, how many turns out do you have on high and low needles? What temps are you seeing with those settings? No manual in the kit so I've been asking around for ballpark settings. Thanks!
Question, those of you that may have bought this truck with the mt12 engine, how many turns out do you have on high and low needles? What temps are you seeing with those settings? No manual in the kit so I've been asking around for ballpark settings. Thanks!
08-04-2003, 09:27 PM
#50
Originally posted by Twist 2 Go
rear needs to be above level to work properly
rear needs to be above level to work properly
Has anyone else experienced something different, or share the same experience as I have?
08-04-2003, 09:36 PM
#51
I just got my graphite upperdeck from Ratzas today! Perfect. Everything lines up and the aluminum standoffs are already installed. I can't wait to run and I'll let you know if it's eye candy or a performance peice.
08-04-2003, 09:41 PM
#52
aaron,
did you buy your kit with the engine? usually a new engine is bench flow tested and is ready for break in. I made sure that the engine was primed and head heated via heat gun before firing it up. Even though the engines are usually set for break in, i fattened the bottom about 1/4 of a turn out and fast idled it to temp at least 200f. As for needle settings...I wish i could run in the garage and open my work station and check exactly what it is on my truck -- unluckily, my other half took my Chevy to the grocery store, and my work station keys were in my truck! 
did you buy your kit with the engine? usually a new engine is bench flow tested and is ready for break in. I made sure that the engine was primed and head heated via heat gun before firing it up. Even though the engines are usually set for break in, i fattened the bottom about 1/4 of a turn out and fast idled it to temp at least 200f. As for needle settings...I wish i could run in the garage and open my work station and check exactly what it is on my truck -- unluckily, my other half took my Chevy to the grocery store, and my work station keys were in my truck!
08-05-2003, 05:41 AM
#53
ive had many a mt-12 engine and good baseline settings are 4 turns out high and 3 turns out low or if you perfer to start really rich for break-in or something 5 high and 4 low
i dont know where mine are set exactly now but i started at 4 and 3 and temps were under 200F because most trucks cant use much full throttle last race i had to lean out considerably because the humidity was very high but untill then i had made only very slight adjustments from the 4 and 3
i dont know where mine are set exactly now but i started at 4 and 3 and temps were under 200F because most trucks cant use much full throttle last race i had to lean out considerably because the humidity was very high but untill then i had made only very slight adjustments from the 4 and 3
08-05-2003, 05:45 AM
#54
Step pins: Yup I got the kit with engine. It actually fires up well, I've got about 10 tanks through the engine so far. I think I might have caused an air leak by repositioning the inlet / high needle, seems to be somewhat erratic when trying to idle. I plan on pulling it out of the truck tonight and get some sensor safe sealant on it...
Racing4Evo: I picked up one of those ratzas decks too, very cool! and it's a perfect fit
PTP Racing: good info, I'm right around there too. I think I'm out about 3 1/2 turns on high and maybe 2 3/4 to 2 1/2 out on low. It's been colder than normal here, and I think I'll have to lean out the low end some more, still spits out a good bit of oil from the pipe...
Racing4Evo: I picked up one of those ratzas decks too, very cool! and it's a perfect fit
PTP Racing: good info, I'm right around there too. I think I'm out about 3 1/2 turns on high and maybe 2 3/4 to 2 1/2 out on low. It's been colder than normal here, and I think I'll have to lean out the low end some more, still spits out a good bit of oil from the pipe...
Last edited by aaronb73; 08-05-2003 at 05:55 AM.
08-05-2003, 05:52 AM
#55
it could also just be the needle settings ive run across a couple of mt-12 engines that were set less than 1 turn out on the low speed needle from the factory
08-05-2003, 06:06 AM
#57
yes the low speed needle is on the side with the linkage
the brass needle on the other side is the midrange and i recommend that you either never touch it or wait untill you are completely confident the other needles are set perfectly
that is the midrange needle it somehow controls the transition from low to high but honestly i havent figured it out so i leave them alone
the brass needle on the other side is the midrange and i recommend that you either never touch it or wait untill you are completely confident the other needles are set perfectly
that is the midrange needle it somehow controls the transition from low to high but honestly i havent figured it out so i leave them alone
08-05-2003, 07:00 PM
#59
From some reason this MT 12 that comes with the car is so hard to break in. I actually stuffed the car in the garage for about 3 months before returning to finish break in. Can you believe that?! Anyway, let me know if you want my needle settings.
08-05-2003, 07:05 PM
#60
I know that the new kits come with aluminum rear hubs. What I don't know is what degree they come in. Can someone fill me in on this?