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Old 03-20-2008, 06:43 PM   #1
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Default BEST LOSI 8B UPGRADES?

hi i have a losi 8b the rtr version ive got a v spec and good servos and radio gear in it but what can i do to make it a good race car ive also put king headz motor mount and radio tray brace in it


any opinions would be greatly appreciated

o btw i have about 150$ to spend
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Old 03-20-2008, 07:04 PM   #2
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I found a shock tower set on ebay. I got rid of the stock silver ones and went with the roller ones. I also have the flex chassis on order.
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Old 03-20-2008, 07:04 PM   #3
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aluminum rear diff inserts, and maybe get one of those new revised diffs they just came out with
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Old 03-20-2008, 07:12 PM   #4
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aluminum rear diff inserts, and maybe get one of those new revised diffs they just came out with
were can i find one?
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Old 03-20-2008, 07:32 PM   #5
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this is the diff upgrade I was talking about http://losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB3528
this is for the center diff http://losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA4442
this is for the rear diff
http://www.tiltedrc.com/product_info...roducts_id=457
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Old 03-21-2008, 12:02 AM   #6
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If it's the RTR get rid of the chassis and the shock towers. Take the motor out and the clutch bell and make it a 4 shoe clutch instead of the 2 shoe it comes with. You can if you want replace all of the hindge pins and shock shaft with tini ones.

Thats a start.
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Old 03-21-2008, 01:01 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LosiMadMan View Post
Take the motor out and the clutch bell and make it a 4 shoe clutch instead of the 2 shoe it comes with.
What are you on about??
The RTR comes with the 4 shoe clutch.
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Old 03-21-2008, 02:04 AM   #8
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I know what he means.. The rtr comes with 2 shoes in the 4 shoe clutch....
Just put 2 more shoes in it....
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Old 03-21-2008, 04:09 AM   #9
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Actually they changed the clutch. It comes with 2 alum and 2 plastic now. It works pretty well but will go away quick.
What I would get a set of hard Alum shoes and run 3 alum and 1 plastic to get a smooth long wear clutch setup. 2 gold and 2 silver springs. 1 gold is on the plastic. $25

Front shock tower. Used will work fine. $15 The rear tower is somewhat protected by the wing so you may be able to get by without it.

Alum Shock caps. These are a must. You are going to have to rebuild your shocks for racing anyways. Front = 54/40 Silver & Rear = 56/35 Green. That is piston type, oil and spring for both ends. $35 for tops and set of rear springs.

Alum inserts for the rear diff case. $20

Change your diff's grease out for real oils. 5-7-2 works fine to just get your feet wet. I run 4-6-3 just about everywhere. Stick with whatever brand your LHS carries the most of. $20

You will want and alum servo horn for your steering servo. $7

The chassis is made of 7075 hard aluminum. Run it for the first year. The hingepins are the same material as the racers they are just not coated. I have been racing for 26 years and can't tell the difference. You will be fine with them. The shock shafts are the same.

Thats $122 If you are creative it can be less.

I would buy myself some good rubber just for the track. Check with your local hotshoes for this one. Longivity is the key here. Find out what they practice with and race with and then look at something in between.

You will want a good pipe for that engine. The stock pipe will be a hand full.
Find a used OS 2050 or a JP-2 and you will not go wrong.

Good Luck, keep it in the middle and have fun!
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Old 03-21-2008, 08:43 AM   #10
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ive got a JP 1 BUT WOW THANKS FOR THE ADVICE is the shock towers the ones from the pro version because i found some used on ebay
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Old 03-21-2008, 09:10 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by levi m View Post
ive got a JP 1 BUT WOW THANKS FOR THE ADVICE is the shock towers the ones from the pro version because i found some used on ebay
I run the JP-1 on my Werks 7 port... I think the power band is similar. I run the 14t clutch bell to tame the bottom a bit... remember, the JP-1 is a low-end pipe. I'm also running a 5.5 restrictor! 8-9 minute runtime with my "on/off switch trigger finger" that I need to replace or at least re-train. (Tex was trying to coach me... and I really WAS listening... just my finger doesn't obey what I tell it!)

and...

I run a Mugen clutch setup with the Losi bell. (yes, this works) It is easier to get parts for the "industry standard" 3 shoe clutch. I was running all aluminum shoes with 1.0 springs, but that's pretty "snappy." I'm currently trying it out with 1 carbon and 2 aluminum. (Mugen flywheel, Mugen shoes, Mugen springs)

What Tex told you on parts will get your buggy up to "race spec." The 8ight is an awesome buggy, and the RTR is much better than most.
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:42 PM   #12
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i bought a metal servo arm today but were can i get those shock springs here is what all i plan to buy:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=014
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=001
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=330220325565&ssPa geName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=014http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=008
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:44 PM   #13
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hey mad is this wat you were talkign about?http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=014
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Old 03-21-2008, 09:15 PM   #14
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no that is not the diff, you want this http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB3528
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:51 PM   #15
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The TiNi shafts and hinge pins are a waste since the TiNi coating wears off in under a gallon of use.
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