Setup for Droop and Ride height???
01-21-2008, 04:11 AM
#1
Setup for Droop and Ride height???
Hey guys,
Im fairly new to 1/8 buggy. I have ordered a Team Magic setup station to set the Camber, Toe for my buggy.
For the front is Toe IN or Toe OUT better? And what or why for each?
Also I was looking at a Droop Gauge. Do we use these for 1/8 buggy? Or are they more for On-Road?
If they are for buggy. How do we properly set it? and how?
Thanks again for all the help.
Im fairly new to 1/8 buggy. I have ordered a Team Magic setup station to set the Camber, Toe for my buggy.
For the front is Toe IN or Toe OUT better? And what or why for each?
Also I was looking at a Droop Gauge. Do we use these for 1/8 buggy? Or are they more for On-Road?
If they are for buggy. How do we properly set it? and how?
Thanks again for all the help.
01-21-2008, 04:27 AM
#2
What kind of buggy have you got? generally you would start with 1* toe out and adjust from there. Toe-in tends to make buggies unstable in a straight line.
More droop is better for bumpy, low traction tracks and for better jumping. less droop helps in high grip situations by limiting chassis roll.
Hope this helps
More droop is better for bumpy, low traction tracks and for better jumping. less droop helps in high grip situations by limiting chassis roll.
Hope this helps
01-21-2008, 06:17 AM
#3
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hi, I am newbie too and would like to know more droop mean the chassis is near to the ground? Pls advise. Thanks.
01-21-2008, 07:21 AM
#4
Tech Rookie
Droop is how much you set the front and rear arms to "sag" when the car is off the ground. You can limit droop by turning in those grub screws set in the A-arms which then lifts the arms up and they will "sag" less.
This setting is largely used to limit weight transfer on or off power but is desired on rough tracks so that the arms are free to move and not limited. Off power down a straight weight will be transfered to the front wheels so you could limit how much this happens by limiting rear droop. Basically the rear has to lift for weight to be moved forward so if you limit this less of the rear will lift and less weight to the front. Its just the same on power with the front lifitng to transfer weigth to the rear.
There is no droop guage needed and you can use anything you want to set them all equal. What I do is use a rim with no tire place in the middle of the chassis to lift the car up. Your tires should be off the car at this point and you measure from any point on the end of the arms to the table the car is sitting on. I measure from the front of the arms at the end right where the higne pin goes into the C-hub but it wont matter so long as you pick the same point all the way around. You are really trying to get both fronts the same and both rears the same so pick the same spots on front left and right then another spot both rear left and right.
The bigger issue people over look is that while you may want a certain droop setting for how the car handles there are other things to consider. First you must limit droop so that the shocks are not the limiting factor or you will be smacking the pistons into the bottom of the shock bodies and break them.
Basically with the shocks unhooked at the bottom in the arms but still attached at the top you place the rod ends back into the arms. You want to start limiting your droop so that when you look in the hole of the A-arm the rod end for the shock is below and they dont align. You want to have to push the shock up about 1-2mm to align the holes in the A-arm with the hole in the shock rod end then put the screw back in. This way you are sure that the arm stops the droop setting before the shock does since you had to push the shock up that 1-2mm for the holes to align.
From here you can take a set of calipers and measure from what ever spot you picked on the end of the arms and be sure both left and right settings are the same. This gets your droop set equal but more importantly you are sure your droop screws limit your down travel and not your shocks.
Most US style tracks we are going to be running max droop but if you wanted to limit it more its not important to asign a value to the setting but its eas to come up with a way to make equal settings yet know that the rear is more or less then the front. Another way is you could cut a zip tie and make your adjustments from it to get both sides equal. The real work is done in making sure the shocks are safe then deciding if you want to leave it at that max droop or limit it further then match the other side with that setting. Putting a zip tie to the table then under a certain point on the arms and cutting it there will give you a FREE tool to use on easily setting the opposite side.
Hope that helps and I know its alot to read but its what I understand about droop.
This setting is largely used to limit weight transfer on or off power but is desired on rough tracks so that the arms are free to move and not limited. Off power down a straight weight will be transfered to the front wheels so you could limit how much this happens by limiting rear droop. Basically the rear has to lift for weight to be moved forward so if you limit this less of the rear will lift and less weight to the front. Its just the same on power with the front lifitng to transfer weigth to the rear.
There is no droop guage needed and you can use anything you want to set them all equal. What I do is use a rim with no tire place in the middle of the chassis to lift the car up. Your tires should be off the car at this point and you measure from any point on the end of the arms to the table the car is sitting on. I measure from the front of the arms at the end right where the higne pin goes into the C-hub but it wont matter so long as you pick the same point all the way around. You are really trying to get both fronts the same and both rears the same so pick the same spots on front left and right then another spot both rear left and right.
The bigger issue people over look is that while you may want a certain droop setting for how the car handles there are other things to consider. First you must limit droop so that the shocks are not the limiting factor or you will be smacking the pistons into the bottom of the shock bodies and break them.
Basically with the shocks unhooked at the bottom in the arms but still attached at the top you place the rod ends back into the arms. You want to start limiting your droop so that when you look in the hole of the A-arm the rod end for the shock is below and they dont align. You want to have to push the shock up about 1-2mm to align the holes in the A-arm with the hole in the shock rod end then put the screw back in. This way you are sure that the arm stops the droop setting before the shock does since you had to push the shock up that 1-2mm for the holes to align.
From here you can take a set of calipers and measure from what ever spot you picked on the end of the arms and be sure both left and right settings are the same. This gets your droop set equal but more importantly you are sure your droop screws limit your down travel and not your shocks.
Most US style tracks we are going to be running max droop but if you wanted to limit it more its not important to asign a value to the setting but its eas to come up with a way to make equal settings yet know that the rear is more or less then the front. Another way is you could cut a zip tie and make your adjustments from it to get both sides equal. The real work is done in making sure the shocks are safe then deciding if you want to leave it at that max droop or limit it further then match the other side with that setting. Putting a zip tie to the table then under a certain point on the arms and cutting it there will give you a FREE tool to use on easily setting the opposite side.
Hope that helps and I know its alot to read but its what I understand about droop.
01-21-2008, 04:31 PM
#5
+1 whitey
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