Got a few questions about motor mounts and backplates.
01-16-2008, 04:18 PM
#16
wow, seriously, why the fuck isint anyone answering?
my thread had gotten 124 views and only 2 people helped... wtf?
tell me what im doing wrong and ill post it else where. jeez.
my thread had gotten 124 views and only 2 people helped... wtf?
tell me what im doing wrong and ill post it else where. jeez.
01-16-2008, 10:41 PM
#17
I think the reason no one is answering your question about the pull start and the mount is simple - no one knows. Putting a .28 in a Mugen buggy isn't that common and it appears that making a LRP .28 pull start into a bump start is even less common. I just spent about an hour researching it on the internet and after all that the best thing I can tell you is to get on the phone and call someone who knows. Call these people...
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/Service
If they can't help you I don't know what to say.
Here is a link to an exploded view of your engine. It will come in handy...
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/man...R_Partlist.pdf
As for the charger DO NOT buy the Dynamite LiPo charger you linked to. It will NOT work with your batteries. They are NiMH and that charger is for LiPo. They are different. If you are trying to stay in the same price range get the Duratrax Piranha that Nitro Syco linked to. You can get either of those charge leads you posted an just cut them to fit.
THIS is a personal transponder used to count laps when you are racing at a track. It's simply a unique identifier that you can install in your car that will count your laps on the computer at the track. It's how they know who won and lost and how fast each of your laps were. Most tracks have loaners on hand that you can borrow if you don't have your own. If you don't race though you don't need it.
I hope this helps.
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/Service
If they can't help you I don't know what to say.
Here is a link to an exploded view of your engine. It will come in handy...
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/man...R_Partlist.pdf
As for the charger DO NOT buy the Dynamite LiPo charger you linked to. It will NOT work with your batteries. They are NiMH and that charger is for LiPo. They are different. If you are trying to stay in the same price range get the Duratrax Piranha that Nitro Syco linked to. You can get either of those charge leads you posted an just cut them to fit.
THIS is a personal transponder used to count laps when you are racing at a track. It's simply a unique identifier that you can install in your car that will count your laps on the computer at the track. It's how they know who won and lost and how fast each of your laps were. Most tracks have loaners on hand that you can borrow if you don't have your own. If you don't race though you don't need it.
I hope this helps.
01-17-2008, 02:47 PM
#18
I think the reason no one is answering your question about the pull start and the mount is simple - no one knows. Putting a .28 in a Mugen buggy isn't that common and it appears that making a LRP .28 pull start into a bump start is even less common. I just spent about an hour researching it on the internet and after all that the best thing I can tell you is to get on the phone and call someone who knows. Call these people...
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/Service
If they can't help you I don't know what to say.
Here is a link to an exploded view of your engine. It will come in handy...
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/man...R_Partlist.pdf
As for the charger DO NOT buy the Dynamite LiPo charger you linked to. It will NOT work with your batteries. They are NiMH and that charger is for LiPo. They are different. If you are trying to stay in the same price range get the Duratrax Piranha that Nitro Syco linked to. You can get either of those charge leads you posted an just cut them to fit.
THIS is a personal transponder used to count laps when you are racing at a track. It's simply a unique identifier that you can install in your car that will count your laps on the computer at the track. It's how they know who won and lost and how fast each of your laps were. Most tracks have loaners on hand that you can borrow if you don't have your own. If you don't race though you don't need it.
I hope this helps.
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/Service
If they can't help you I don't know what to say.
Here is a link to an exploded view of your engine. It will come in handy...
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/man...R_Partlist.pdf
As for the charger DO NOT buy the Dynamite LiPo charger you linked to. It will NOT work with your batteries. They are NiMH and that charger is for LiPo. They are different. If you are trying to stay in the same price range get the Duratrax Piranha that Nitro Syco linked to. You can get either of those charge leads you posted an just cut them to fit.
THIS is a personal transponder used to count laps when you are racing at a track. It's simply a unique identifier that you can install in your car that will count your laps on the computer at the track. It's how they know who won and lost and how fast each of your laps were. Most tracks have loaners on hand that you can borrow if you don't have your own. If you don't race though you don't need it.
I hope this helps.
holy shit man, that was the post ive been looking for the whole time!! i knew i had to start swearing in order to get it! LOL
so these cables and charger will work fine together? i just have to cut the metal pieces off so its bare wire and stick it into the charger?
https://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore...idproduct=5019
https://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore...idproduct=3688
would buying these make my engine problem go away?
https://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore...?idproduct=180
and im also thinking of getting this pipe for my lrp .28.. i remember reading somewhere that its a good combo to use: https://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore...idproduct=5424
thanks for all the help man, i was about to submit that order and it would have sent out today... with the wrong charger and probably a few other wrong parts...
01-17-2008, 04:14 PM
#19
hate to double post and keep bugging you guys..
but i called horizonhobbies and they couldnt help me.
i called team associated and no one answered, ill try again tomorrow.
i tried the mugen site and the LRP site, both of which are complete garbage overseas sites.
i dont know what to do... im almost at the point where i wanna sell my LRP engine and get a new one or something, this is VERY frustrating.. this hobby isint as fun as i thought it would be.
but i called horizonhobbies and they couldnt help me.
i called team associated and no one answered, ill try again tomorrow.
i tried the mugen site and the LRP site, both of which are complete garbage overseas sites.
i dont know what to do... im almost at the point where i wanna sell my LRP engine and get a new one or something, this is VERY frustrating.. this hobby isint as fun as i thought it would be.
01-17-2008, 06:14 PM
#20
cancel that^^
i was just able to cut off the back of the stock mugen engine mount with a drill... drilling 2 holes, then snapping the piece off, and i filed it to make it flat on the cement. so, with some minor cutting and filing of metal.. i eventually got it to fit
bad thing is i had to cut off the 2 rear screw holes.. the ones that attach the engine mount to the buggy chassis, so its only being held on by the front 2... dont know if that will be a problem, i just started my engine up and it seemed to be working fine, dont know if it can haldle WOT though...
do you guys know if the lrp .28 engine.. which is made for a truggy and puts out approx 3.8 HP.. will that tear up the mugens stock drive shafts and bearings and stuff?
i also started it to see if it would start after being taken apart for 1 month, and man did it ever sound nice. i heard how it screams and seen how fast those tires spin as i opened the throttle arm with my fingers (no electronics yet) and remembered how fun these expensive little buggers are. i cant wait to get those electronics and rip up this all this damn snow!
all i need to 100% confirm is my cable/charger thing above this post
and im also thinking of getting this temp thermometer,if i get it, do i need anything else to go with it?
http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/...idproduct=1804
and i heard glowplugs go fast.. may as well stock up on those. do they come out with no problem? i dont need a special tool? why do glowplugs have differnet heats? from cold to turbo extreme hot, what glowplug should i use for a lrp .28 zspec that probably isint tuned right and runs in the cold?
i was just able to cut off the back of the stock mugen engine mount with a drill... drilling 2 holes, then snapping the piece off, and i filed it to make it flat on the cement. so, with some minor cutting and filing of metal.. i eventually got it to fit
bad thing is i had to cut off the 2 rear screw holes.. the ones that attach the engine mount to the buggy chassis, so its only being held on by the front 2... dont know if that will be a problem, i just started my engine up and it seemed to be working fine, dont know if it can haldle WOT though...
do you guys know if the lrp .28 engine.. which is made for a truggy and puts out approx 3.8 HP.. will that tear up the mugens stock drive shafts and bearings and stuff?
i also started it to see if it would start after being taken apart for 1 month, and man did it ever sound nice. i heard how it screams and seen how fast those tires spin as i opened the throttle arm with my fingers (no electronics yet) and remembered how fun these expensive little buggers are. i cant wait to get those electronics and rip up this all this damn snow!
all i need to 100% confirm is my cable/charger thing above this post
and im also thinking of getting this temp thermometer,if i get it, do i need anything else to go with it?
http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/...idproduct=1804
and i heard glowplugs go fast.. may as well stock up on those. do they come out with no problem? i dont need a special tool? why do glowplugs have differnet heats? from cold to turbo extreme hot, what glowplug should i use for a lrp .28 zspec that probably isint tuned right and runs in the cold?
Last edited by Mugen MBX-5; 01-17-2008 at 07:09 PM.
01-17-2008, 07:35 PM
#21
WOW! i think you bit off way more than you can chew! engine mounts have 4 screw holes for a reason. i think its silly to have that engine in that buggy, but whatever. that engine has way to much power for buggy tires to put down.
01-18-2008, 10:57 AM
#22
Backplate
This is the part you need.
http://www.hpi-shop.at/pd-1376718504.htm?categoryId=56
The part number is 38111.
The website is in German. Don't know if they take paypal but they do deliver to Canada. By the way its the same backplate for the non pull start 21 and 28. Get yourself some new engine mounts before you kill you're chassis, clutch bearings, and possibly the crankshaft.
http://www.hpi-shop.at/pd-1376718504.htm?categoryId=56
The part number is 38111.
The website is in German. Don't know if they take paypal but they do deliver to Canada. By the way its the same backplate for the non pull start 21 and 28. Get yourself some new engine mounts before you kill you're chassis, clutch bearings, and possibly the crankshaft.
01-18-2008, 11:08 AM
#23
Here you go.
Paypal and Canada
http://www.rc-autoparts.com/index.ht...3D2838111%3D29
Still German but I'm sure you can manage.
Paypal and Canada
http://www.rc-autoparts.com/index.ht...3D2838111%3D29
Still German but I'm sure you can manage.
01-18-2008, 11:17 AM
#24
yea man, id think with the 2 mounting holes gone off the mount, the engine will make the mount flex under pressure and the clutch bell will move around and end up stripping the gears.... so thats something id take care of. as for the engine backplate, i not so sure where you can get one, esp that takes paypal and ships to canada, thats a tough find!!
and yes, your spot on with the charger and cables, that will work fine with the two reciever packs you posted earlier...
as for the glow plugs, if its cold outside, run any standard HOT glow plug. probably the mccoy mc59's, that would be just fine.
and yes, that temp gun is fine do you have the clutch shoes and flywheel and all that stuff?
and yes, your spot on with the charger and cables, that will work fine with the two reciever packs you posted earlier...
as for the glow plugs, if its cold outside, run any standard HOT glow plug. probably the mccoy mc59's, that would be just fine.
and yes, that temp gun is fine
do you have the clutch shoes and flywheel and all that stuff?
01-18-2008, 04:36 PM
#25
yea man, id think with the 2 mounting holes gone off the mount, the engine will make the mount flex under pressure and the clutch bell will move around and end up stripping the gears.... so thats something id take care of. as for the engine backplate, i not so sure where you can get one, esp that takes paypal and ships to canada, thats a tough find!!
and yes, your spot on with the charger and cables, that will work fine with the two reciever packs you posted earlier...
as for the glow plugs, if its cold outside, run any standard HOT glow plug. probably the mccoy mc59's, that would be just fine.
and yes, that temp gun is fine do you have the clutch shoes and flywheel and all that stuff?
and yes, your spot on with the charger and cables, that will work fine with the two reciever packs you posted earlier...
as for the glow plugs, if its cold outside, run any standard HOT glow plug. probably the mccoy mc59's, that would be just fine.
and yes, that temp gun is fine
do you have the clutch shoes and flywheel and all that stuff?k thats perfect, yes i have clutch shoes and all that stuff. and youre right... the clutch and other gear things kinda make a small grinding noise, but when i twist the motor (while its tightened down) just like .01 degrees the sound goes away, i figure its nothing serious but what do i know?
my mugen and lrp .28 are currently together, the lrp being mounted by only 2 screws.. and 70% of a motor mount, i dont think it will move... i sure hope not.
as for the links that albert posted... i didnt really understand them.
will having this engine in my car ruin anything serious?
i dont race, just bash around once in a while, and probably dont have my engine tuned exactly how its supposed to.
01-18-2008, 04:45 PM
#26
when you tighten the motor mount screws, make sure there is a very small gap between the gear teeth, just enough slack to keep them from grinding each other..
as for ruining anything serious, its all replaceable so theres no permanent damage... with that kind of cutting and make-do work, theres no guarantee because it wasnt made that way. but if something breaks, there are parts everywhere for that mugen car..
just bashing around, at the very least make sure your motor doesnt run hot and youll be fine. if at all, run it rich where you can see a good trail of smoke upon take-off, at least you know its ok that way. change the filter with a new freshly oiled one when the other looks dirty, and make sure there are no ways for dirt to get into that engine, bc thats a nightmare waiting to happen!
the motor may or may not hold like it is, id lean more to not gonna hold, but you never know, its just something i wouldnt take a chance with if i were RACING, but since your just bashing around, if it breaks, not such a big deal, lol! but whatever happens, have fun man!
as for ruining anything serious, its all replaceable so theres no permanent damage... with that kind of cutting and make-do work, theres no guarantee because it wasnt made that way. but if something breaks, there are parts everywhere for that mugen car..
just bashing around, at the very least make sure your motor doesnt run hot and youll be fine. if at all, run it rich where you can see a good trail of smoke upon take-off, at least you know its ok that way. change the filter with a new freshly oiled one when the other looks dirty, and make sure there are no ways for dirt to get into that engine, bc thats a nightmare waiting to happen!
the motor may or may not hold like it is, id lean more to not gonna hold, but you never know, its just something i wouldnt take a chance with if i were RACING, but since your just bashing around, if it breaks, not such a big deal, lol! but whatever happens, have fun man!
01-18-2008, 05:27 PM
#27
when you tighten the motor mount screws, make sure there is a very small gap between the gear teeth, just enough slack to keep them from grinding each other..
as for ruining anything serious, its all replaceable so theres no permanent damage... with that kind of cutting and make-do work, theres no guarantee because it wasnt made that way. but if something breaks, there are parts everywhere for that mugen car..
just bashing around, at the very least make sure your motor doesnt run hot and youll be fine. if at all, run it rich where you can see a good trail of smoke upon take-off, at least you know its ok that way. change the filter with a new freshly oiled one when the other looks dirty, and make sure there are no ways for dirt to get into that engine, bc thats a nightmare waiting to happen!
the motor may or may not hold like it is, id lean more to not gonna hold, but you never know, its just something i wouldnt take a chance with if i were RACING, but since your just bashing around, if it breaks, not such a big deal, lol! but whatever happens, have fun man!
as for ruining anything serious, its all replaceable so theres no permanent damage... with that kind of cutting and make-do work, theres no guarantee because it wasnt made that way. but if something breaks, there are parts everywhere for that mugen car..
just bashing around, at the very least make sure your motor doesnt run hot and youll be fine. if at all, run it rich where you can see a good trail of smoke upon take-off, at least you know its ok that way. change the filter with a new freshly oiled one when the other looks dirty, and make sure there are no ways for dirt to get into that engine, bc thats a nightmare waiting to happen!
the motor may or may not hold like it is, id lean more to not gonna hold, but you never know, its just something i wouldnt take a chance with if i were RACING, but since your just bashing around, if it breaks, not such a big deal, lol! but whatever happens, have fun man!
ive got oiled filters, 2 brand new ones from carolinasrc.
i just started it again and gave it a few short WOT bursts with my fingers, it spins those tires so goddamn fast they bubble out, man does it ever scream. ive only got to drive it on snow/ice, cant wait to drive it on other surfaces
do you know of a motor mount that for sure fits a pull start lrp .28 zspec engine AND a mugen mbx5 buggy?
01-18-2008, 05:31 PM
#28
not that i know of man, the mbx5 was sold as a full blown race kit, and in races, most people use a starter box.... only suggestion i have is try and get something from those sites albert posted, try and rig it up (which you did already), or sell that motor and get a decent .21, like a go tech 3 port or something similar.
01-18-2008, 06:34 PM
#29
not that i know of man, the mbx5 was sold as a full blown race kit, and in races, most people use a starter box.... only suggestion i have is try and get something from those sites albert posted, try and rig it up (which you did already), or sell that motor and get a decent .21, like a go tech 3 port or something similar.
worst case scenario is this setup doesnt work, so i gotta put my new lrp .28 into my junk himoto... which needs to be rebuilt. and buy a new .21 engine and engine mount.
i was looking on carolinas just out of curiosity at .21 engines and they seem to be a lot more expensive than the .28 ones, why is that? could my .28 beat the best .21 or what? since my engine is a truggy engine making like 3.5 HP?
01-18-2008, 07:35 PM
#30
all of the race .21's use the best materials and the tolerances are much tighter. you end up with great power with a nice smooth powerband from an engine that should last for many gallons, if taken care of "properly". you also pay for the brand as well, lol!