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Old 12-31-2007, 04:08 PM   #16
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search for josh cyril or steve bess breakin methods. both work great
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Old 12-31-2007, 08:57 PM   #17
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siiick sounds like some really good advice thanks a heap.
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Old 12-31-2007, 09:27 PM   #18
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Im With HookaMega on this one! The Ron Paris heat cycle method is "THE" way to break in your motor if you want to get a good life out of it!
I have a Vspec with 44 litres (aprox 11 Galons) through it and i expect another 10Litres max from this motor and I will be very happy
I could have got a longer life from this motor IMO if i replaced the rod after the first 1/2 gallon, the Vspec has an oil gallery drilled through the crank, After inital break-in the big-end of the rod is a little stretched. if you continue to run it like this it will oval the crank pin and shorten the life of the engine to 10 gallons max due to the oil gallery reducing the surface area at TDC (top dead centre) where the most loading is excerted on the rod and crank pin!
I was fortunite enough to pick up on it at about the 10litre (4 Gal) mark and get an extra 10 or 12 litres but i feel I could have more!!

If you can afford the extra coin, try the speed! OS have revised the crank and drilled the rod insted of the crank!

OS for life, I love the V-spec
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Old 12-31-2007, 09:36 PM   #19
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yea mabe in the near future atm i have the 2 engines that im happy with.
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Old 12-31-2007, 09:46 PM   #20
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Dirt Racer, do I know you, do you race at liverpool?
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Old 12-31-2007, 10:08 PM   #21
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heat cycle method. Preheat to 200 then start it. open the glow plug if needed. do that for about 3 full tanks. I never let my engine idle as it wont seat. You need a load on the engine for it to seat in. after about 20 tanks is when you can lean it out to a race or aggressive tune. After breakin id highly recomend replacing the rod. I myself would switch to ceramics as well but mine already has them.
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Old 01-01-2008, 02:00 AM   #22
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mm no not that i know of, why? , my local is albion park, ive only been at liverpool once last year and will be more often this year leading up to the NSW state titles...
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Old 01-07-2008, 08:36 PM   #23
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with the installation of a fly wheel do you need a spacer behind the collet so that the flywheel grips properly? from waht i know thats the way it would work.
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Old 01-07-2008, 09:38 PM   #24
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If you can afford the extra coin, try the speed! OS have revised the crank and drilled the rod insted of the crank!


Will the os speed connecting rod fit to the ordinary blue head vspec?
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Old 01-07-2008, 10:20 PM   #25
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What I like to do is heat cycle the motor on the box 4 or 5 times. Up to 220ish and shut it down, wait till back at ambient temperature the fire it back up. Then toss it on the ground and run it at 1/4 throttle for 2 tanks, watch temp. Then repeat with a few 1/2 blips in there for a tank or 2. Then repeat with mostly 1/2 throttle blips for a tank or two and do this all the way until you are running 80% percent or so with a few 100% blips. Then put it on the track and be gentle on the motor for a full practice day. While tuning on it slightly. Also another thing I like to do before I do all of the above is take the motor apart and clean and relube it and make sure that there are no metal shavings anywhere inside of the motor.
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Old 01-08-2008, 01:17 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Force View Post
If you can afford the extra coin, try the speed! OS have revised the crank and drilled the rod insted of the crank!


Will the os speed connecting rod fit to the ordinary blue head vspec?
I wouldn't recomend it! with both the crank pin AND rod drilled you would shorten the life of both components and gain nothing!
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Old 01-08-2008, 02:31 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Integra View Post
I love how all u guys are saying 5-13 tanks and its broken in.......a motor is broken in when there is no mechanical pinch left...and thats the ONLY way to tell....with no Glo plug does it still stick at top ?....if So its not broken in....Plain and simple....imo alot of guys push there motor's Way to hard WAY to early in there life.....take it easy guys...take ur time...make sure its right the First time around.
You should see how some of the top guys in australia break there motors in,you would cry they run them hard from day dot.They work awesome and last long enough but the majority of people who race think that method is torture after they see them do it.

if i have access to a break in bench that is what i use its the best way to break in a motor imo much more accurate than in the car and a lot less messy haha.
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Old 01-08-2008, 03:45 AM   #28
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ive tried installing the flywheel with collet behind but the flywheel isnt gripping, am i right in placing a spacer behind the collet to move it further in the flywheel.
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Old 01-08-2008, 10:11 PM   #29
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its all fine now, ive installed the flywheel and clutch, and ive wraped the head to keep temp up, will consider useing the Pro's method and run the engine making sure it is 5050 in richness and good idle...once it has come to a the suggested temp rev 1/4 to set the piston in and then switch of, let it cool and then heat up and start and run on the ground for a tank and do that for 3-4tanks and should be good by tank 8 to race tune.

one of the guys at my track was running his Vspec and it has just run in but he's had the issue of loss of compression. too easy to turn over when in buggy, im gussing it ll be alright once its totally run in.

he may have not set the piston in properly.
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Old 01-08-2008, 10:17 PM   #30
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and ill be running the MassiveMods fuel that has been formulated with oils that protect all of the engine and one of them soaks into the metal stiffening it up and thus improving wear... cant wait to get this beast run in.
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