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Old 12-30-2007, 09:28 AM   #16
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Not sure what size hexes are on your T-maxx, but I'd get 17mm hexes and run the latest truggy wheels and tires on your truck to save a TON of weight. For the suspension, I'd lose the stock shock towers and shocks and replace them with aluminum towers (dace or UE) with buggy standoffs and then use four 1/8th scale front truggy shocks (such as the front MBX5T shocks). You'll save a lot more weight and the suspension would be dialed. Then I'd lose the stock chassis, braces & fuel tank and replace it with the Dace Predator chassis/braces, 1/8th scale tank and mount your throttle servo for a direct shot. If you don't get the Dace chassis, at least get the braces and drill your stock chassis to mount them (works very well). On my old LiteRace T-Maxx I drilled the front bulk head braces all the way through and then used a 3x50mm cap head with washers on each side and a locknut. For skids, I picked up a set of old hardcore racing Titanium skids and drilled a bunch of 3/8" holes in them to lighten them up. They support the bulk better. Quick & strong servos with a good Rx hump pack will make the truck work much better on the track. The lighter Rx hump pack will save weight too. In ready to race form, the truck will work much better around 7-1/2 lbs. With the weight reduction the stock driveline and suspension arms will be much stronger. I'd also ditch the EZ start for a pull start and get a good glow ignitor. Finally, replace all the low quality hardware with strong Grade 12.9 alloy steel fasteners.

Best of luck,
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Old 12-30-2007, 09:44 AM   #17
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so is it that i want to get the truck as low as possible bet still have suspension. is there any way that you might be able to send me some pics of what you did to your truck so i can get somewhat of an idea of what you did. if i go to a small tire wouldnt that over turn the motor and screw something up or does it not really work like that. and what do you mean byt the throttle setting and stuff like that.
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Old 12-30-2007, 10:38 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldog20 View Post
so is it that i want to get the truck as low as possible bet still have suspension. is there any way that you might be able to send me some pics of what you did to your truck so i can get somewhat of an idea of what you did. if i go to a small tire wouldnt that over turn the motor and screw something up or does it not really work like that. and what do you mean byt the throttle setting and stuff like that.
The tires are smaller, lighter, and have a lower sidewall. They are the best replacement for MT tires.

Edit: They give you quicker acceleration and more responsive handling.
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Old 12-30-2007, 11:23 AM   #19
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What I would do is get 17mm hexes and then get some ofna 17mm full offset rims. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/1966
Then you can run truggy tires from proline, panther, etc. that are much lighter and much smaller than 40 series. I put hpi savage 17mm hexes on my tmaxx but ofna makes even better ones though.
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Old 12-30-2007, 12:20 PM   #20
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for those 17mm hub wouldnt i need to get half shaft conversions. the ones that have a little grove in them so the hubs dont slide off
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Old 12-30-2007, 05:54 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by dieseldog20 View Post
so is it that i want to get the truck as low as possible bet still have suspension. is there any way that you might be able to send me some pics of what you did to your truck so i can get somewhat of an idea of what you did. if i go to a small tire wouldnt that over turn the motor and screw something up or does it not really work like that. and what do you mean byt the throttle setting and stuff like that.
The new ProLine truggy tires are the same height as most MT tires but they are much lighter. They are a bit narrower, but the gearing on yuor truck will remain the same. I'm not sure what 17mm conversions are out there for the T-Maxx as it has been a long time since I had my LiteRace T-Maxx.

As for the throttle servo, the stock layout uses a bell-crank. When you move stuff around, you can set up the throttle/brake servo so it has a direct pull on the carb. It will get mounted on the left rear side of the chassis. I'll see if I can dig up some pics of my old Maxx.
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Old 12-30-2007, 06:05 PM   #22
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Here's a shot of my old LRM1 (LiteRace Maxx 1)

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Old 12-30-2007, 06:06 PM   #23
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The fuel tank is filled through the front windshield just like a 1/8th buggy or truggy.
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Old 01-01-2008, 04:59 AM   #24
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that was the chassis you was taking about right. now does that chassis have everything already dril and stuff like that so all i have to do is just mount the servos and such were you have them in the pic or is that all something that you custom mae your self.
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Old 01-01-2008, 06:18 AM   #25
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If you get the chassis kit it should come with the chassis, braces, standoffs for the T/B servo and hardware. I forget if it came with standoffs for the fuel tank (i think it does). The tank standoffs are 35mm tall. The fuel tank is just the Ofna fuel tank.

If you buy the chassis braces by themselves, it comes with a template to mount them on your stock chassis. They stiffen up the stock chassis quite well. But then you just drill and mount the T/B servo, fuel tank, etc yourself.
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Old 01-01-2008, 06:45 AM   #26
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at what website would i find that chassic kit with everything with it
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Old 01-01-2008, 06:50 AM   #27
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i noticed also that the steering servos is in a different location is that something that was custom or suppose to be like that. if so does it come with the neccassary linkages for that or that just something you do yourself
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Old 01-01-2008, 10:38 AM   #28
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You can check on the Dacemfg.com website or the unlimitedengineering.com site. The UE site has a forum with a buy/sell section as well as a ton of info on these LiteRace machines. Don't get too caught up in all the aluminum/steel bling though. The stock driveline, arms & diffs will be fine with a small-block and lightweight tires/wheels.

The chassis uses a standard Maxx servo-saver. UE and ProLine both make a better aftermarket servo-saver. The only piece you may need is a different servo horn (which will come with any good servo) and then a short turnbuckle with ends. I don't recall if the ProLine servo-saver kit comes with the linkage. You should be able to get something from any local hobbyshop though.
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