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Old 11-28-2008, 07:01 PM   #46
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it wont go to top, but it still wont hold an idle or that it just randomly dies. i think i should just pinch it and start from the beggining.
what plug are you trying to run... as well sometimes if your clutch is damaged a motor wont idle...
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Old 11-28-2008, 08:01 PM   #47
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max- he posted his idle/tune issue 10 mths ago. I sure hope he has it figured out by now

anyways I use a local guy that has rays pinching tools and they run better after a pinch then when they were new I sware!
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Old 11-29-2008, 07:06 PM   #48
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I have has ZERO luck trying to get ahold of BCE also. Anyone know whats up??
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Old 11-29-2008, 07:18 PM   #49
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the only man i trust to do my motors john b
http://www.osrocketracing.com/
he know more about motor then any one you ever meet and he a really cool guy
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Old 11-30-2008, 12:22 AM   #50
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the only man i trust to do my motors john b
http://www.osrocketracing.com/
he know more about motor then any one you ever meet and he a really cool guy
And I will be using him too.. I have read these "reviews" if thats what they could be called... and decided this to be my best bet.. for the following reasions...
1) It's affordable
2) Haven't heard any negatives
3) It's less than a 2 hour drive if I have any "issue's" with my $21.99 being "mishandled"
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Old 11-30-2008, 09:24 AM   #51
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My Dad (22Racer) does an awesome job pinching and rebuilding motors. Only $15.00 with shipping for a pinch and $35.00 to rebuild a motor.

22welch@frontiernet.net is his e-mail

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Old 11-30-2008, 09:28 AM   #52
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for 35 what is all done?
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Old 11-30-2008, 10:38 AM   #53
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Go with OSROCKET, don't kid yourself with anyone else.
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Old 11-30-2008, 04:27 PM   #54
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for 35 what is all done?
Tear down, clean in a high pressure cleaner, measure crank and check rod slop, pinch sleeve, replace bearings, rod if needed, pinch if needed. Any parts that are needed are extra, I use Tko Bearings. If it is not worth fixing I do not charge anything.
I have put Go cranks, rod, piston and sleeves in Novarossi's, the Go rod is only $18.69.
I also charge less for modding since I already have it apart.

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Old 11-30-2008, 05:16 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by 22Racer View Post
Tear down, clean in a high pressure cleaner, measure crank and check rod slop, pinch sleeve, replace bearings, rod if needed, pinch if needed. Any parts that are needed are extra, I use Tko Bearings. If it is not worth fixing I do not charge anything.
I have put Go cranks, rod, piston and sleeves in Novarossi's, the Go rod is only $18.69.
I also charge less for modding since I already have it apart.

Rex
When I need one done Rex will definately be doing it. I have met them in person several times and they are great people. They will be earning my business when I am ready to have the service done on my JP Mod.
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Old 11-30-2008, 05:56 PM   #56
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hey jbrow whats up just a question on the head clearance thing. I see you posted .030 for 30%? i did a quick search online and most of what I find is
.020 is this in the range also I suppose it differ from company to company?
thanks
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Old 11-30-2008, 06:11 PM   #57
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I have one question before I would ever get one pinched again.

I had an OS 21 VG pinched by one of the reputable guys already mentioned here. It worked fine and ran very good when I put it back together. BUT when I removed the sleeve to send it in, it came out easily. When it was returned to me after being pinched it was VERY hard to push back in. What does that mean?? Only thing I can guess is that it was pinched out of round. It was so hard to get out to do further maintenance a few weeks later that pouring after run oil from the bottom to soak for a few hours and heating it up like I was going to replace bearings did little good. It was still able to only grab the block with Kevlar gloves and push the bottom of the sleeve with the padded handle of my pliers to have it come out about 1/2" using all my strength and in frustration the stupid method I used to get it the rest of the way out ruined it by slightly pinching it. Boy was I stupid and mad that night

So basically why would a pinched sleeve be difficult to impossible to re-install and take back out? I fully believe in the pinching after trying it but have to know what happened before I would do it again. And yes, if it happened next time I would definately call the guy and talk to him before I went any futher. Lesson learned !
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Old 11-30-2008, 06:26 PM   #58
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Default sleeve installing after pinching

bjr, the sleeve should not change when re-installing after resizing, sometimes the button area is a little snug, especially if the guy doing it uses one of the manual methods, and even then sometimes the tenths that it changes still make the button are a little snug, the VG sleeves are a softer composition and depending on what method is used it may be out of round then it is almost impossible to get back in. if you ever run into that again take a good set of micrometers and check it for out of roundness, and contact the person who did it and ask them what they think, i get alot of out-of-round sleeves in to try and repair and that is a 50-50 shot depending on how bad they are, thanks alot john b (osrocket)

(on the head shiming) we always run .018-.022 area on matts stuff he runs the OSVPEC AND SPEED and never have any problems, he is sponsored by odonnell and we always use the 30% race in buggy and i believe steve od. recommends .018/.020 area if i remember correctly, alot of guys add the extra shim for break-in then remove it after, and some even leave the extra shim in, depending on what nitro percentage they run, but we have never ran the extra shim in our stuff, and remember all the engines are different, it is alwasys good to do your own measuring of the deck height so you know exactly what you are messing with, sometimes the same engine will be a slight bit different than another one of the same model,
thanks jb
email me if you have any questions or problems

Last edited by osrocket; 11-30-2008 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 11-30-2008, 06:37 PM   #59
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Frank,

Yes, head clearance varies from mfgr to mfgr. There are reasons the clearances are what they are. An engine tuner will adjust the clearance based on the nitro % that the engine is expected to burn, the port timing, desired compression ratio, the RPM where peak torq is to be achieved... blah, blah, blah.

generally higher nitro requires a lower CR than a low nitro fuel; changing clearance is a simple way to effect a change to the CR. Correct deck height is really important to an engine. If it's set too high the fuel will burn late and put heat in the header. If it's too low for your application the fuel can ignite too early and cause detonation (damaging the postion face & potentially shattering the rod). Just pulling or adding a shim may cause more harm than good if the change is drastic.


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I know... a really vague answer here, but you need to know exactly what you intend to acomplish befor you make changes to the engine.
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Old 11-30-2008, 06:46 PM   #60
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well chunk t i have a axe rossi x1 comp. and somehow managed to lose my shims during a rebuild so I do not know the head clearance. thanks
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