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Old 12-09-2007, 09:46 AM   #1
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Default O.S. V-spec help

i have an os v-spec (NOT MODDED) AND I TOOK IT APART TO CLEAN IT AND CHECK ON IT AND THERE IS LIKE A LAYER OF COLOR ON THE ROD AND BUTTON AND THE ROD HAS ALOT OF PLAY ON THE CRANKSHAFT WAS IT BEING RAN TO RICH?
ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED
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Old 12-09-2007, 10:21 AM   #2
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I am guessing the colour is from the dye in your fuel....what kinda fuel are you using and also it is time to get a new rod...you usually have to replace them after about a gallon or so
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Old 12-09-2007, 11:16 AM   #3
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I am guessing the colour is from the dye in your fuel....what kinda fuel are you using and also it is time to get a new rod...you usually have to replace them after about a gallon or so
I do agree that the color could be from your fuel but I have no clue what he is talking about when he said that you have to put a new rod in after a gallon I had one that had 5-6 gallons on it and it still ran like a top and I sold it to a guy that is going to race it this next year and I have a buddy that had I think he said 8 gallons on one and he never replaced the rod on it either. Thanks all I can help you with and good luck
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Old 12-09-2007, 02:49 PM   #4
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alli can say is make sure that your useing the right run aka breakin method so that you arent causing massive stress on the conrod.

go to rc universe and you ll find a article which will explain how to break in the V-spec or any engine for that matter.

make sure that you run the engine on the rich side to lubricate the bearings and the engine in general not too rich though help from others if needed is a good idea(some one that knows how to tune well.

use aluminium foil around the head to aid in engine temp increase

use a good hair dryer or heat gun to heat the engine to right temp.

use a temp gun to help in knowing what temp the engine is at.

always Pre heat the engine so that it doesnt have such a hard time running.

after each tank make sure that the piston is at bottom dead center so that it does not get stuck at the top

let the engine cool and then do the same, heat up and then start it for another 3tanks and after that you should be running it at the track and tuneing for race use( not at fast pace as the engine is still running in).

please do read the artikle, this info is only from what i recall and i believe its 99% right but confirm this via the breakin artikle in RC universe.
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Old 12-09-2007, 02:55 PM   #5
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also if you find it hard to know when the piston is bottom dead center, take the engine out take the exhaust of and look where the piston is and place at BDC and use a permanent texter and make a line on the bottom of the flywheel as a indicator of where the piston is at.

good luck and read the info on the web page and you ll be alright, if you didnt do it right and you see that there is damage on the rod connecting to the crank shaft, im afraid you ll need a new conrod.
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Old 12-09-2007, 04:11 PM   #6
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I do agree that the color could be from your fuel but I have no clue what he is talking about when he said that you have to put a new rod in after a gallon I had one that had 5-6 gallons on it and it still ran like a top and I sold it to a guy that is going to race it this next year and I have a buddy that had I think he said 8 gallons on one and he never replaced the rod on it either. Thanks all I can help you with and good luck
What i meant was some, not all v-specs need a rod replacing after breakin becasue of the stress from running it in rich......my v-spec was luckley one of the ones that dident need a rod replacing.
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Old 12-09-2007, 05:05 PM   #7
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it all ready has been broken in wit about a gallon through it and it dies if i run 2 tanks back to back or long periods of time
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Old 12-09-2007, 08:36 PM   #8
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is it getting too hot?
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Old 12-09-2007, 08:45 PM   #9
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it all ready has been broken in wit about a gallon through it and it dies if i run 2 tanks back to back or long periods of time
Engine is most likely overheating. You must check your temps after running hard for about 4-5 minutes. This will determine if the engine is tuned correctly and if the right glowplug is being used.
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Old 12-10-2007, 07:47 AM   #10
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its running between 220-240 witch is good and im using a p3 and the glow plugs are burning out like crazy like every 10 min
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Old 12-10-2007, 07:59 AM   #11
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The color you see is from the dye in the fuel you use. The conn road play is there by design. There has to be some play to allow the oil from the fuel to get in between the rod and crank to provide lubrication. If you're not destroying glow plugs, then you don't need a new conn rod yet.

Run it!
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Old 12-10-2007, 08:07 AM   #12
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skartisu plugs are burning out after 5 min Qs i go through 2 a day when one should last the whole weekend
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Old 12-10-2007, 08:29 AM   #13
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Okay, then it's time for a conn rod. Also, if you're using OS P3 plugs, you could also try O'Donnell 97Ts instead. They're more durable than the P3s and work great.
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Old 12-10-2007, 08:38 AM   #14
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im just wondering why would it need a new con rod cause the plugs are burning out?
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Old 12-10-2007, 08:54 AM   #15
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If the conn rod gets sloppy enough, you run the risk of the piston touching the bottom of the glow plug, or causing more compression than normal which can also damage the coil inside the plug.

Is the coil getting distorted inside your plug?
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