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Old 12-04-2007, 02:35 PM   #16
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U are correct ezveedub u still do need to supply ur own header..but the Rd and Hudy come with tanks now.
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Old 12-04-2007, 06:55 PM   #17
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Prop starter, bah only for sooks, chicken stick!!! only way to start a propped engine... works for my Saito 125...

come to think of it, i dont think anything runs as good as my Saito 125, i might bolt that into the mugen...

Saito Power!!!!
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Old 12-04-2007, 07:00 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Loop&Roll View Post
Prop starter, bah only for sooks, chicken stick!!! only way to start a propped engine... works for my Saito 125...

come to think of it, i dont think anything runs as good as my Saito 125, i might bolt that into the mugen...

Saito Power!!!!


huh ?
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Old 12-04-2007, 07:11 PM   #19
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huh ?
hahaha, you would have to fly planes to understand.

U can either finger start with a peice of dowel (chicken stick) or sook it and use an electric prop starter, used finger once on a 70 4stroke and it kicked back (didn't quite get past compression), put blood all over my showtime!!

As for the Saito comment, brilliant motors, 4-strokes 4 planes!!!! have never seen an offroad 2-stroke run as consistant as a Saito!!!

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Old 12-04-2007, 07:40 PM   #20
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i figured it had something to do with plane's...but could'nt figure out what..
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Old 12-04-2007, 08:56 PM   #21
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Chicken stick, finger start...reminds me of the old Cox .049 engines! Had the spring wrapped around the shaft for starting. If you wound the prop and didn't get your finger out the way fast enough....man oh man!!
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Old 12-04-2007, 08:57 PM   #22
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how can you breakin a motor without the load provided by the prop ???? just a flywheel isnt going to work nearly the same...... Beleive it or not but that prop provides alot of load, more load then the motor will actualy see inside a 1/8 vehice....... That prop will actually hold back a 2 HP Picco 28 from going over 30K, i was shocked by how much load that little prop provides.......
that's why i decided to get the bench.... conventional way of breaking in is on the car.... idling for a few tanks and driving it around afterwards... i build the makeshift one cause some of my customers want me to beak in a little for them with the thermal cycles before collecting them... i do not have issues with the HSD with the hudy bench. i also own the nanda bench, but we also did not use air filter for both... don't see a point as we run it in very clean area....
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Old 12-04-2007, 09:01 PM   #23
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You can just put an onroad filter on with some oil when running on the stand. I have seen guys use a stnad at the track and you better have a filter. I've seen the dust that falls on everything around the track after a short time.
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Old 12-04-2007, 09:32 PM   #24
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that's why i decided to get the bench.... conventional way of breaking in is on the car.... idling for a few tanks and driving it around afterwards... i build the makeshift one cause some of my customers want me to beak in a little for them with the thermal cycles before collecting them... i do not have issues with the HSD with the hudy bench. i also own the nanda bench, but we also did not use air filter for both... don't see a point as we run it in very clean area....
Which one do you like better - the Hudy or Nanda? I am fairly certain the Nanda and the RD logics are the same.

Is there more room on the Nanda in front of the carb? Could you use an air filter on it?
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Old 12-04-2007, 10:00 PM   #25
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Which one do you like better - the Hudy or Nanda? I am fairly certain the Nanda and the RD logics are the same.

Is there more room on the Nanda in front of the carb? Could you use an air filter on it?
there is alot more clearance with the Nanda/RD setup... the Hudy has zero clearance... in fact the prop is scalloped out to clear the carb, it would be 100% impossible to install any sort of air filter...the Nanda/RD setup allows you to use a small on-road filter
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Old 12-05-2007, 05:02 AM   #26
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Which starter would be necessary to start new tight motors? I see the Hobbico ones come in 90 and 180. Is the 90 way more than enough, or will I wish I spend the extra $7 for the 180?
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Old 12-05-2007, 07:29 AM   #27
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Which starter would be necessary to start new tight motors? I see the Hobbico ones come in 90 and 180. Is the 90 way more than enough, or will I wish I spend the extra $7 for the 180?
get the 180 i guess if the price difference is only 7$.....im sure the 90 would work Just fine tho.
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Old 12-05-2007, 08:04 AM   #28
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Quote:
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there is alot more clearance with the Nanda/RD setup... the Hudy has zero clearance... in fact the prop is scalloped out to clear the carb, it would be 100% impossible to install any sort of air filter...the Nanda/RD setup allows you to use a small on-road filter
Is the clearance because of no prop washer between the prop and engine or just the basic design of it just less room on the Hudy?
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Old 12-05-2007, 08:46 AM   #29
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Is the clearance because of no prop washer between the prop and engine or just the basic design of it just less room on the Hudy?

Its more so the prop if anything ......lookin at the pic of the hudy with all the components laid out in front of it....u can blatently see the cut outs on the back side of the prop....so runnin a filter on the Hudy is Near Impossible...and I would HIGHLY HIGHLY reccomend Using a filter.....i dont care if ur breakin in ur motor is a Microchip laberatory...Dust is Dust and with a prop mooving that much air.....And on another note...when we FIRST got the bench...we tried it without a carb neck/filter on it...and the actual air overtop the carb by the prop was actually creating a Vacume effect on the carb inlet... actually Sucking the Fuel from the carb and the spray bar and splashing it all over the motor..I kno it sounds strange...but Both me and Max saw it happen in Front of our eyes.
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Old 12-05-2007, 09:27 AM   #30
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I dont know if youve guys have heard of this or not,

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/biss/dow...iss_manual.htm

you have to scroll down half the page (they have some options for homemade set ups at the start), and its a program that you hook a servo up to, and you can use a computer to control your break in, I've got it and it works really good, I set it up just to keep blipping the throttle during 9min runs, after 9min it will shut the engine off (you set your idle up so the servo can close the carb off completely), you can set how much throttle you want it to blip, like 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, servo speeds, servo pause times, etc... its nice because then you dont need to sit and pull the linkage to keep blipping it, also the guy that does the program is pretty good, if you want small tweaks like different servo pauses or speed options, he will revise the program for you and send you a new version, it adds to the cost of the stand since you need to buy the program and the servo controller, but I split the cost of everything with another guy, and if you break alot of engines in, its really nice not to have to sit with the engine all the time, just check in on it once in a while to check temps,

I'm using it on a RD logics stand, I just shoe goo'ed a JR 250 servo right to the plate, and set the linkage up from there, also for airfilters, I'm using a normal buggy filter on mine, the fan shroud pushes the neck back enough that everything clears, I think at one point the prop hit the neck, but it just made a slittle clearance groove in the prop and thats it, now it always clears no problem, and it didn't damage the filter neck when it hit at all,
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