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Old 01-23-2008, 02:57 PM   #46
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I just had a look at the video. All I can say is WOW - that's dusty. I don't think any setup info I have posted would be of much use on that track. You would probably need to stiffen the front end up to the point where it has very little grip on a surface like that.
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Old 01-24-2008, 12:11 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMizzle View Post
was any car hooked up that day???
track was CRAZY dusty and loose!!
I was expecting that question.
Well I also raced my X1 on the same day I will upload the video. My X1 was hooked up indeed. Also one point to note is that the M1 is on a virgin set of proline M2's and my X1 was on a set of worn out tyres. so the comparison made was real.

I did find that the M1 is alot more tail happy as apposed to the other cars on the day.
I do think the shock oils was too soft. I have stiffen it and will take another video.
The aim is to get the M1 planted. Overall I also think one has tp alter ones drivestyle for the M1.
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Old 01-25-2008, 07:27 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lycan View Post
Thats odd, I've got 2 deg camber on the front of my M1 and the end of UJ's don't hang out of the cups when the suspension is fully compressed.

Are you able to take a photo of the front of the car without the wheels on and post it here?

If you take a look at the photo I posted on page 1, you can see how much of the turnbuckle is exposed. Thats also with using the outside hole on the front upright (as per setup in the manual).
I will be posting some pics of the front end later today. Sorry for the delay, I have been waiting for parts. Seems most of the distributors here in the states are not carrying TM parts or the car anymore. However A-Main just now started selling the turbo. Whilst I wait on their parts to come in the only place I know to get parts is RCShopping.com. Even still, the shocks completely depressed the dogbone falls out of the drive cup. HELP! Am I doing something wrong?
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:54 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Jensen View Post
I will be posting some pics of the front end later today. Sorry for the delay, I have been waiting for parts. Seems most of the distributors here in the states are not carrying TM parts or the car anymore. However A-Main just now started selling the turbo. Whilst I wait on their parts to come in the only place I know to get parts is RCShopping.com. Even still, the shocks completely depressed the dogbone falls out of the drive cup. HELP! Am I doing something wrong?
You can get parts and the car(s) from WolfHobbies.com and also speedline Rc or something like that here in the U.S.
But I didn't know about A Main getting their Turbo's and parts in. I may look at their site and see if the car/ parts are any cheep er then Wolf.

Good to see you back on the forum. All the best with your Magic!!

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Old 01-26-2008, 06:05 PM   #50
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IT's BACK!!!!!

With the new K-Factory big bores and K-factory tall shock towers and a new fuel tank







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Old 01-28-2008, 12:19 PM   #51
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Thumbs up Dumber than I Look!LOL

Alright now, I feel like somewhat of a dumbass. When they say read the directions, you'd better follow them to a T. Don't get carried away, getting all excited, Pay attention to detail.

(And I wondered why I was the only one experiencing this issue.) I am not going to go into detail, but if you have read any of my other postings, you will know. The steering knuckles work on both sides rt on lft and vice/versa. However, they lead to Other Problems!!!!!!!

Now that I have the Proper configuration. I am going to try it again. Taking some of Your setups, and running it hard.

I was going to post some pictures with my new drive cups, but I think I will wait and show pictures of racing.
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:39 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Jensen View Post
Alright now, I feel like somewhat of a dumbass. When they say read the directions, you'd better follow them to a T. Don't get carried away, getting all excited, Pay attention to detail.

(And I wondered why I was the only one experiencing this issue.) I am not going to go into detail, but if you have read any of my other postings, you will know. The steering knuckles work on both sides rt on lft and vice/versa. However, they lead to Other Problems!!!!!!!

Now that I have the Proper configuration. I am going to try it again. Taking some of Your setups, and running it hard.

I was going to post some pictures with my new drive cups, but I think I will wait and show pictures of racing.
Lol...Drew.
You are deffinately not the first and wont be the last but good info' to put out there so the rest of us don't make the same mystake. (And would be too proud to say so on here.)

What set ups are you going to try out? I've heard some different diff' weights being used, none of which seam to be the stock ones. What diff' oil weights are you going to try?

Best of luck.

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Old 01-29-2008, 03:05 AM   #53
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Any care to share a setup for the M1 that works.
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Old 01-29-2008, 08:03 AM   #54
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Turbo or standard?
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Old 01-29-2008, 11:03 PM   #55
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I am running a turbo.
7-7-2. diffs
Shocks 2 hole pistons up front and 3 hole pistons rear with 50wt oil on both.

Also with all the steering di you limit the total amount or slow down the steering?
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Old 01-30-2008, 08:12 AM   #56
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im running 7-5-2
going down in the center will make the car a little easier under power out of corners.

also, i think im a little lighter on the shock oil and im running purple springs in the rear with the purple sway bar.

I do not limit the steering, but if its twitchy go up to maybe 10,000 in the front diff.

Also, if you can add some weight to the rear that helps A LOT!!
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Old 01-30-2008, 07:10 PM   #57
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can you please post your whole set up for the M1 turbo?
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Old 01-30-2008, 10:53 PM   #58
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OK THis thread will mainly concern the M1 B Turbo.

First time changing diff oils after build.
To remove front diff:
remove shock top screws.
Pull clip and remomove plastic shaft.
Remove diff cover 6 screws
Remove diff

Its that easy.

Anyways I changed the front to 10K. It seems much better.
Tmizzle. I'm thinking of going 6K or 5K in the centre.
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Old 01-31-2008, 03:03 PM   #59
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Default chasis flex

I had the car out the other night. Man what a difference! I tried running the diffs 7/5/3 but I think this considers track condition, like maybe a dry blown out track. I switched back to a 5/7/3 mix. which I feel works on a wet, packed down clay track. I didn't even break anything, and I was even trying too! Well, I wasn't being to stupid. What I mean is jumping far and landing hard, end for end sometimes.

What I have noticed on the other hand is my body is taking a real beating. Especially from the body posts! I have the turbo so it is equipped with the front chasis stiffener and I have added the rear chasis stiffener from Kfactory. I still get alot of flex, not that it is all bad. I mean it helps the cars handling but tears up the body, and these bodies aren't cheap!

Has anyone experienced the same? Does anyone have any resolution?

My setup:

Front-
shocks-85mm,
oil-60wt
piston-3x1.5
spring-TM orange long
shock position-lower outside, middle upper
upper arm position-^
camber link-inside
camber- -2
toe- +1
droop- Max
diff-5000wt
Front dog bones-slightly above level

Rear-
shocks-85mm,
oil-60wt
piston-2x1.5
spring-TM purple long
shock position-lower middle, middle upper
Roll center-upper
camber link- inside
camber- -2
toe- 2.5
anti squat- 1
droop- Max
diff-3000wt
Rear dog bones- level

Center-
diff-7000wt

Antiroll Bars-
Front-2.4mm(stock)
Rear-2.8mm(stock)

Tires Are Panther C-Switch 2.0
Inserts are Werks Molded Foams
Wing is fit with the Team Cobra wing!!!!!very durable
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Old 02-04-2008, 06:09 AM   #60
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Ok Drew
I had a similar setup that I tested the weekend.
I am using 60wt shock oils front and rear. 3hole pistons at the back and 2 hole in front. Making the rear softer.

Diff 10-7-2. Limit steering travel.

The car was good. It was alot more hooked up and controllable around the track. I can definitely live with trhis setup.
I just do not want to basterdise the car with fitting oyher parts. Just keep the design as stock as possible.
Also running the Jammin JPX21 with JP4 pipe make the car very fast and responsive.
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