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Old 01-06-2008, 08:32 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Chris_H View Post
Ok so I went out and put everything back together. Started the car with about 1/2 a tank and ran it. Seemed pretty sluggish but ran good for the most part. Once that tank was almost empty the car was running pretty good. Temp outside is roughly 63* with about 15mph winds. Brought the car in, filled the tank and started it. As soon as I went WOT with it, the car took off, blowing some smoke and then fell flat on its face, stalling out about 2 seconds into it. Car hasn't started back up since and I just left it alone.

I really enjoy this while its running, but don't want to get frustrated with it so I just leave it for a while. I bought it as a toy for me to play around with and to have my 2 sons (4 an 1.5 yrs old) have a good time watching.

Chris
So, have you solved the problem with the gap on the side?
Was that nut loose?

About it stalling on you, thats a tuning problem. (Sounds like its too rich and you flood it out when you open the throttle too quick.)
But, you need to get that gap fixed first.
You should only have a 1mm gap on the top. As shown in the manual.

When you had it running, did it idle well? Stay in place at neutral?
For tuning it, just do a search.
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Old 01-07-2008, 04:45 AM   #17
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The only way I have found to get rid of the gap on the side is by turning the trim all the way to the left. Other than that it doesn't go away. There is a hobby shop an hour from me (closest one) that sells HPI. I have talked with them and they are willing to work with me on it this week. Just need to drive up there when I have the time.

After the break-in the car ran pretty good, and idled good. From time to time it would idle too high and cause the car to start rolling.
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Old 01-07-2008, 08:23 AM   #18
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From what I've seen on other engines, 1.0mm idle gap is the maximum you'd need. O.S. V-Specs only need half of that for an idle opening.

So, that said....

Adjust your radio and linkages to ensure that the carb shuts all the way to the stop every time. Do not use your servo trim adjustment to set the idle.

Then adjust your low speed needle so it will at least idle. This is just to get it so you can drive the car. Another adjustment will be coming....

Drive the car to get the engine fully warmed up, and adjust your high speed needle so you get power, but still get smoke when grabbing the throttle.

Then run the car for 100 feet or so at WOT (to simulate a straightaway) and bring the car to a stop in front of you. Listen to what the idle does. What you're shooting for is the engine to idle at a "medium" speed for 5-10 seconds, then drop down into a "low" idle. If it drops to the low idle immediately, lean the low speed needle. If it stays at the "medium" idle for more than 30 seconds, richen it up.
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Old 01-09-2008, 06:37 PM   #19
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Well we got it running today! I talked with a guy at work that has been running r/c airplanes and cars for years. Asked if he'd be willing to help me out with it and see if we could get it running. After about 20 minutes of tuning, we got it running pretty good and idling pretty good. At one point the "golden bolt" assembly completely came out, with the bolt and throttle arm attached Turns out that has been loose the whole time, I just thought it was normal since it had been like that from the beginning. We got everything put back together and started adjusting the needles. Car idles pretty good now and runs great. The car was VERY rich both low and high end. Came home and ran a tank through it and had a blast with it again. Thank you to everybody who helped out and tried to explain how this works to me! Can't wait to get home from work tomorrow and play some more

Chris
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