nitro sport 98

tried every thing still doesnt start

petevette

iTrader: (13)

Need more info, what do you mean you tried everything? What specifically did you try and what is your level of experience with Nitros?

nitro sport 98

1 doesnt start i tried changing the gaskets checked if pistin is fried checked fuel lines,fuel tank n other shuts of when accelerating

Mugen MBX-5

wow dude.. you dont just come in here and say "it wont start" and expect RCTechs best to come and provide paragraphs upon paragraphs of helpful information like youre some sort of celebrity.

first of all, do a google search or use the seach button for the problems youre having.

secondly, use some proper punctuation and learn how to spell, no ones going to help you otherwise (which you had to learn the hard way).

if you came in here and made a decent post, provide some info on what your situation is, then im sure people woulda helped, but like i said, you cant come in here and say "engines broke, whats wrong?" and expect to get help. use your head a little bit man.

take the 5 or so mins it takes to write a decent post about what engine you have, what EXACTLY are the symptoms, most of it should be common sense on how to fix it, but sometimes people need help.

petevette

iTrader: (13)

MBX5 is right, we need more information. If I understood your PM correctly, you said that you can start the engine but it stalls when you accelerate. Is this correct? If so, does it stall when it is on the ground or with the tires in the air? How old is your fuel?

nitro sport 98

the engine runs but getting near top speed it dies out im new to this so dont realy know alot tried google but realy doesnt help me

petevette

iTrader: (13)

Okay, then I am going to ask you some questions and I need you to respond to each one.

What kind of car and engine is it?
Is it new or used?
If new, did you break the engine in?
If used, where did you buy it from?
If used, are you using a new glow plug or used one?
How old is the fuel?
When the car is stopped and you hit the trigger do you see smoke coming from the exhaust?
Have you taken the carburetor off the engine at anytime?
When the engine is idling, do you see raw fuel coming from the exhaust?

Answer those questions and maybe we can figure out what the problem is.

nitro sport 98

the car is a nitro sport,its used,got it from a friend he said it needed a little work,i bought new glow plugs not 1 but a couple,fuel is new whenever i mess wit the car i put new fuel in da tank,yes grey smoke comes out the exhaust,i havent taken out the carburetor,no raw fuel comes from the exhaust when idling

petevette

iTrader: (13)

Sounds like your engine is still running to lean. You should have a little fuel coming from your pipe. Try richening the top needle by a half turn. If that doesn't work, try another half a turn. just remember how many times your turn it so you can return to the current position.

Mugen MBX-5

i think it would be a bit safer to do just 1/4 turns. 1/2 is a bit much, especially if he does it twice.

but other than that, i agree with pete, it does sound like its running too lean, its either your HSN needle or something is wrong with your carb, its obviously not letting enough fuel to the engine, thats why you cant accelerate, or reach top speed... from what i can understand from your posts.

accelerating = engine needs way more gas then when its idiling.

and not trying to be a dick... but you really gotta start using some commas and periods nitro sport 98. i know my internet spelling isint the best, but at least you dont gotta read over it like 3 or 4 times.

PowerHouse

iTrader: (66)

WOW, pretty harsh guys, tough crowd I guess. Alright, I'll give you a quick rundown on how to inspect the motor to see if things are up to par or not.

1.) Checking pinch- clean around the glow plug with some solvent and compressed air. I use carb spray. Remove glow plug and slowly rotate motor and watch the piston as it approaches top dead center. The piston should start to pinch on the sleeve a little. If it doesn't it doesn't mean its not any good, it just means its either well broken in or approaching replacement time. You could also get it pinched from a reputable company for under $25.

2.) Checking for air leaks- If the motor has been run and there is dirt on it, check for saturation around the carb area(where it seats to engine and around needles), lower front bearing near the clutch and around the head gasket. If there isn't any signs of fuel saturation in those areas then you are in good shape with that. If you what looks like wet dripping sludge in any of those areas, make necessary repairs.

3.) Checking fuel lines- inspect all fuel lines (pressure and fuel) from the pipe to the tank and from tank to the carb. Also check the filters if you have any.

4.) Tank Inspection- A simple way to do this is to blow lightly into the return line to see if you have any fuel being forced up to the carb. Don't blow hard, just a nice steady pressure is all it should take.

5.) Inspect Pipe- Check to make sure pipe is seated to the exhaust flange properly and that there are no cracks or other restrictions that could cause low or no backpressure situations.

6.) Setting Needles- There are several ways to do this but I'll give you the easiest way to do it. Set the High and Low needles to 3 turns out from seated. Start motor only if steps 1-5 are good to go. The motor should fire up, it may run eratic but thats ok for now. Start turning the high speed needle out and rev the motor a few times wide open. Only rev it at WOT for about a second or two. Don't pin it and hold it there. All you are trying to do is see if the high speed is in the ballpark. If you rev the engine and it sounds blubbery, lean it in a 1/4 turn at a time until the needle no longer responds or the rpm doesn't change much. Once you are there back it off a 1/4 turn and leave it for now. Next let the vehicle come an idle and pinch the fuel line and count the seconds it takes for the engine to stall. If set up correctly, the idle shouldn't change at all for the first few seconds indicating great fuel signal and needle pressure, then the idle should raise for about 2-3 seconds and then the motor should die out. If the motor speeds up as soon as you pinch the line, its too lean and if the motor idles for more than 6-8 seconds before idleling up or stalling then it's too rich. Play with it until you get it where you want. After that, set the car down and run it for a little while checking the temp to see if it is heat saturatin. If the temp continues to rise past 260-270, back off the high speed screw until temps maintain. Your motor should be somewhere between 220-250 when tuned correctly. Some engines run a little hotter so 270 is not uncommon. It should definately stay under 290. I have never had an engine run over 285 that was tuned correctly. After you think the engine is running decent, come to a stop and let it idle for 8-10 seconds and then stab it. If you see smoke and it sounds like it blubbery, then its rich. Lean the low end in a 1/8 turn at a time and repeat test until you achieve the desired response. If tuned correctly, the engine should be able to idle for 10-15 seconds and snap to life when you pull the trigger and should only have a very mild richness to it when idling over 30 seconds.

If you have tried all of the above and nothing works, then the motor might be tired and may need a rebuild or replacement. Due to the lack of rings in these engines, the piston to wall clearance is critical for creating the vacuume necessary for each cycle. if you have any questions, feel free to give me a call.

Mark @ www.PowerHouseRCPerformance.com

PowerHouse

iTrader: (66)

In case you haven't already, install a new plug and get some new fuel. If you have already you should be cooking with crisco!! Good Luck

nitro sport 98

alright guys let u know if i get it running right and thanks for the tips