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Old 11-18-2007, 01:24 PM   #1
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Default few simple questions. (lots of reading)

1. im breaking in a LRP .28 engine. after driving it at 50% max throttle for 1 tank, is it better to let it cool off in a warm area (my house), or a pretty cold area (my garage)

i have a 2nd engine, its a SH .28 engine (came on Himoto RTR 1/8 buggy). this engine was the very first one i ever had, the very first time i started it, one of my little brothers spun the throttle tuning to max and i didn't notice, so when i started it, it started at WOT for about 10 seconds, blowing the thickest nitro smoke ive ever seen into my eyes and my lungs, wasn't fun, scared me, the engine was SCREAMING!!, i didn't know how to shut it off, so finally it stopped.

2. now my question, on the SH, the flywheel is pretty to spin, even when it gets "hard" to spin, its still quite easy, especially compared to my new LRP .28 that i'm breaking in (in question 1). is this just because its had about 2L through it, and wasn't broken in properly, at all, i drove it hard from day 1... no patience , so is that why the SH flywheel is kinda easy to spin all the way?. my LRP is very very very hard when its been sitting in my cold garage, but after i drive it, the flywheel is pretty easy to spin.. im guessing this is because its warmed up?, and it will be easier and easier to spin each time i drive it??

3. on the LRP im breaking in, i drive it around for a little bit and it doesn't seem to do anything until approx 7000 RPM (guess.. i heard these normally go from 4000-44000 RPM??) then it roars and takes off, it seems to do that more so often when i'm in the first 1 or 2 mins of driving, then it doesn't seem to do it as bad, is this just because i'm breaking it on?, or is it tuned wrong?, its still on factory settings, and i'm running in weather that is 38 degrees F, wind makes it feel like 18 F though .

4. the LRP thats being broke in also seems to accumulate about a drop or more of gas.. or something, coming out of the stinger of the muffler after im done driving, whats the cause of that??

5. whats the easiest way to get clutch springs onto the flywheel nut, i know how they're supposed to go, but where does the washer go? and how do you get the springs to fold back like they're supposed to?

6. my starter box rubber wheel doesn't reach high enough to get to my flywheel. my flywheel is about 1/2 inch above the opening for it, how can i fix this?

it would be awesome if someone could just answer these with the corresponding question number in front of the answer, just so theres no confusion. thanks a lot.
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Old 11-18-2007, 11:14 PM   #2
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come on, i know these are simple questions. can someone PLEASE answer them ASAP before i do something wrong. thanks a lot.
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Old 11-18-2007, 11:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by what happened? View Post
1. im breaking in a LRP .28 engine. after driving it at 50% max throttle for 1 tank, is it better to let it cool off in a warm area (my house), or a pretty cold area (my garage)

i have a 2nd engine, its a SH .28 engine (came on Himoto RTR 1/8 buggy). this engine was the very first one i ever had, the very first time i started it, one of my little brothers spun the throttle tuning to max and i didn't notice, so when i started it, it started at WOT for about 10 seconds, blowing the thickest nitro smoke ive ever seen into my eyes and my lungs, wasn't fun, scared me, the engine was SCREAMING!!, i didn't know how to shut it off, so finally it stopped.

2. now my question, on the SH, the flywheel is pretty to spin, even when it gets "hard" to spin, its still quite easy, especially compared to my new LRP .28 that i'm breaking in (in question 1). is this just because its had about 2L through it, and wasn't broken in properly, at all, i drove it hard from day 1... no patience , so is that why the SH flywheel is kinda easy to spin all the way?. my LRP is very very very hard when its been sitting in my cold garage, but after i drive it, the flywheel is pretty easy to spin.. im guessing this is because its warmed up?, and it will be easier and easier to spin each time i drive it??

3. on the LRP im breaking in, i drive it around for a little bit and it doesn't seem to do anything until approx 7000 RPM (guess.. i heard these normally go from 4000-44000 RPM??) then it roars and takes off, it seems to do that more so often when i'm in the first 1 or 2 mins of driving, then it doesn't seem to do it as bad, is this just because i'm breaking it on?, or is it tuned wrong?, its still on factory settings, and i'm running in weather that is 38 degrees F, wind makes it feel like 18 F though .

4. the LRP thats being broke in also seems to accumulate about a drop or more of gas.. or something, coming out of the stinger of the muffler after im done driving, whats the cause of that??

5. whats the easiest way to get clutch springs onto the flywheel nut, i know how they're supposed to go, but where does the washer go? and how do you get the springs to fold back like they're supposed to?

6. my starter box rubber wheel doesn't reach high enough to get to my flywheel. my flywheel is about 1/2 inch above the opening for it, how can i fix this?

it would be awesome if someone could just answer these with the corresponding question number in front of the answer, just so theres no confusion. thanks a lot.

1. the longer you can keep the heat into it, the better. Try to keep it as warm as you can when it cools down.

2. This could be part of the reason but it's cased from normal use. As well as not spinning the piston to bottom dead center when the sleeve cools down.

3.The engine might just not be tuned. If it's still at factory settings, it's still to rich.

4.It's just unburnt oil. It's normal for break in. Don't worry about it.

5.Get a clutch spring tool from Racers Edge or Losi or something.

6.Bigger flywheel, lower engine blocks, new starter box wheel.
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Old 11-19-2007, 10:16 AM   #4
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First of all, smack your little bro for doing that! Smack him again later if you are ever at all reminded of the 'incident'. Then remind him of what he did to deserve it, and if he whines about it, just tell him it 'builds character'...

Next, ALWAYS TURN YOUR MOTOR TO BOTTOM DEAD CENTER via the flywheel. Your motor will last a lot longer if you do. Do this immediately after the engine cuts out. Have your pitman do it to. It should become second nature! You may even 'cheat' and use a sharpie to mark the point on the flywheel where the motor is at Bottom Dead Center (BDC). Don't permanently mark the flywheel, b/c when you take it off for maintenance and such, it may be hard to get it back on the same way. Sharpie, on the other hand, will come off with some cleaning solutions/solvents.

In fact, everytime you pick up the buggy or set it down, you should be checking the flywheel with your fingers to see if it is at BDC (Bottom Dead Center).

As for
Quote:
. on the LRP im breaking in, i drive it around for a little bit and it doesn't seem to do anything until approx 7000 RPM (guess.. i heard these normally go from 4000-44000 RPM??) then it roars and takes off, it seems to do that more so often when i'm in the first 1 or 2 mins of driving, then it doesn't seem to do it as bad, is this just because i'm breaking it on?, or is it tuned wrong?, its still on factory settings, and i'm running in weather that is 38 degrees F, wind makes it feel like 18 F though .
You have got to keep this motor warm. Go buy a heat gun from Walmart - check in the 'painting' department. They usually have heat guns for removing wallpaper and such. Get one - $20.

Warm the motor up, then start it. Everytime.

As for it bogging on the bottom end at first - per your description - I would suggest that you richen up the top end needle by 2~3 hours, then run it. If it is still bogging on the low end of RPMs - which I suspect it will be, Lean out the bottom end needle by 1~2 hours and run it. Run it for a few minutes and see if the bottom clears out a little better when you apply the throttle - just a little throttle!

If it gets a little better, you may lean it out 1 more 'hour' or so, but do not lean the bottom out too much! It still needs to be putting out good smoke at low RPMs!



Then squirt in some ARO everytime, especially during break-in period. Turn the flywheel back and forth to work in the After Run Oil (ARO), and then put the flywheel back into the BDC position...
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Old 11-19-2007, 01:16 PM   #5
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wow... thanks a lot for all the help guys.

i know why my starter box wont reach my flywheel.. its because i also have a pullstart backplate and thats scrweing things up, but ive got that all figured out.

as for ARO, i dont have any, how critical is it?, can i use anything else?

and whats the easiest way to check BDC... im close, but i still dont think im doing it perfectly, i just look down the air filter hole and i can see that thing spinning.

i do warm up the motor, i keep it in the house, then i heat it on full blast with a hair dryer for about 5 mins. it starts first pull, then i let it idle for about 2 mins, then slowly apply more and more throttle until im at 50% throttle.



"
As for it bogging on the bottom end at first - per your description - I would suggest that you richen up the top end needle by 2~3 hours, then run it. If it is still bogging on the low end of RPMs - which I suspect it will be, Lean out the bottom end needle by 1~2 hours and run it. Run it for a few minutes and see if the bottom clears out a little better when you apply the throttle - just a little throttle!

If it gets a little better, you may lean it out 1 more 'hour' or so, but do not lean the bottom out too much! It still needs to be putting out good smoke at low RPMs!"

is that turning them clockwise or counter clockwise?

and do you mean the HSN 2-3 hours counterclockwise? and the LSN 1-2 hours clockwise?

thanks a lot guys. im sure ill have more questions.
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Old 11-19-2007, 03:25 PM   #6
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Hours? I guess you mean 1/12th? It's ok to do an 1/8th of a turn but that's usually considered the max.

And you have it backwards for the needles.
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Old 11-19-2007, 04:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Hours? I guess you mean 1/12th? It's ok to do an 1/8th of a turn but that's usually considered the max.

And you have it backwards for the needles.
yeah, i usually do it in 1 hr increments, just makes it easier.

and who has it backwards for the needles?? you gotta explain this stuff to me in detail, im new to this, and my worst part of rc cars is tuning. im usually runningin very cold conditions, keep that in mind.

and as far as letting it cool down after break in... i just keep the tin foil on, which is very warm, and bring it in the house to keep it warm too, is that good enough?

and can someone please tell me the easiest way to find BDC, is goind a half revolution past the "hard spot" good enough?
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