very quick question
11-17-2007, 09:12 AM
#1
very quick question
im getting an enging in my mugen mb5x today finally.
its an LRP .28 zspec
my problem is that my LHS possibly doesnt have a flywheel that fits on it.... so would i be able to break in the engine with no flywheel/clutch on it?? or is that bed for it and i should just wait for the flywheel to be on.
its an LRP .28 zspec
my problem is that my LHS possibly doesnt have a flywheel that fits on it.... so would i be able to break in the engine with no flywheel/clutch on it?? or is that bed for it and i should just wait for the flywheel to be on.
11-17-2007, 09:28 AM
#3
11-17-2007, 03:14 PM
#5
Having no flywheel would make it kind of hard to start too.
11-17-2007, 05:34 PM
#6
lol why is that? are you assuming im using a starter box and no pull start? well we all know what happens when you ASSUME, you make an ASS outta U and ME.
anyways, i got my engine today, they LHS was able to get a flywheel and everything working. few questions though.
1. i got a junk 60$ yellow starter box... everything is working fine, but it doesnt spin my flywheel (not enough power when i press hard, not enough grip when i press lighter), is it because my engine is brand new and gonna be hard to start the first few times?? it started with the pull starter fine (yes, im using both, pullstart and starter box)
i broke it in by filling the tank 75% full, putting tin foil around the blue thin plates, then i heated it up with a hairdryer for about 15 mins, it started nicely, idled nicely. one thing i noticed though was it kinda had trouble spinning the wheels when i gave it a little gas, maybe this is because its new?? or my throttle servo isint set 100% and the brakes were kinda on, preventing the wheels from spinning??
i didnt follow "break in" rules exactly, i let id idle for about 2-3 mins, then i gave it a few small bursts of the throttle (no more than 50%). is that ok?, im planning on doing the same tomorrow after it cools off, let it idle for about 5 mins, then drive it around very slowly, is this ok??
is there anything else i should do/know about the engine during break in?? ive been told to start it, run a tank through it nicely, then let it completely cool, is this right?
im new to this and need (want) all the info i can possibly get. thanks guys.
anyways, i got my engine today, they LHS was able to get a flywheel and everything working. few questions though.
1. i got a junk 60$ yellow starter box... everything is working fine, but it doesnt spin my flywheel (not enough power when i press hard, not enough grip when i press lighter), is it because my engine is brand new and gonna be hard to start the first few times?? it started with the pull starter fine (yes, im using both, pullstart and starter box)
i broke it in by filling the tank 75% full, putting tin foil around the blue thin plates, then i heated it up with a hairdryer for about 15 mins, it started nicely, idled nicely. one thing i noticed though was it kinda had trouble spinning the wheels when i gave it a little gas, maybe this is because its new?? or my throttle servo isint set 100% and the brakes were kinda on, preventing the wheels from spinning??
i didnt follow "break in" rules exactly, i let id idle for about 2-3 mins, then i gave it a few small bursts of the throttle (no more than 50%). is that ok?, im planning on doing the same tomorrow after it cools off, let it idle for about 5 mins, then drive it around very slowly, is this ok??
is there anything else i should do/know about the engine during break in?? ive been told to start it, run a tank through it nicely, then let it completely cool, is this right?
im new to this and need (want) all the info i can possibly get. thanks guys.
11-17-2007, 06:31 PM
#7
There's so many different ways and opinions on break-in you will get many different answers. The way you are doing it sounds like it will be ok. If you do a search for "break-in" you should come up with some threads to read thru. I just broke in an engine using the full throttle process. I liked it and will try again. Try the search and read thru the various ways.
And new engines are real hard to start, and once you get it tuned in more the wheels will spin easily.
And new engines are real hard to start, and once you get it tuned in more the wheels will spin easily.
11-17-2007, 07:26 PM
#8
There's so many different ways and opinions on break-in you will get many different answers. The way you are doing it sounds like it will be ok. If you do a search for "break-in" you should come up with some threads to read thru. I just broke in an engine using the full throttle process. I liked it and will try again. Try the search and read thru the various ways.
And new engines are real hard to start, and once you get it tuned in more the wheels will spin easily.
And new engines are real hard to start, and once you get it tuned in more the wheels will spin easily.
how about the starter box not being able to start the engine (spin the flywheel)??
and whats with this "full throttle break in" youve been telling me about? isint a "break in" just taking it easy on the engine for the first run, then being a little "rougher" on it more and more each time you drive it? compared to going WOT the very first time you ever start it?
and im sure ive got a lot of other questions that i havnt thought of yet. ill post em as i think of em.
11-17-2007, 09:48 PM
#9
The starterbox probably just had a hard time with the new engine. They get stuck easily. Depends how well it's lined up with the flywheel, type of batteries and how well they are charged up. If the car isn't lined up properly on the starterbox even a well used engine may be hard to roll over on a box.
The full throttle break-in I did was written in an article about Adam Drake in the november extreme r/c magazine. I wouldn't recommend it to someone new to nitros. Just goes along with there's so many different ways to do breakin, that's just one of them. And probably not used very much either. Some say it's hard on the rod bushings, guess I'll find out. I've done about every other method and figured I'd finally try this one.
Best way to line up the starterbox is with the engine out of the vehicle then set your alignment pegs with the starterwheel bottomed into the flywheel cutout.
The full throttle break-in I did was written in an article about Adam Drake in the november extreme r/c magazine. I wouldn't recommend it to someone new to nitros. Just goes along with there's so many different ways to do breakin, that's just one of them. And probably not used very much either. Some say it's hard on the rod bushings, guess I'll find out. I've done about every other method and figured I'd finally try this one.
Best way to line up the starterbox is with the engine out of the vehicle then set your alignment pegs with the starterwheel bottomed into the flywheel cutout.
11-17-2007, 10:01 PM
#10
if you use a heat gun to heat the engine to around 200F the start box should be able to turn over the engine, also if you put a few drops of after run oil down the glow plug hole this will also help to lube up the mechanical pinch...it is very hard on the engine to start cold when new and not broke in yet...
11-17-2007, 10:03 PM
#11
The starterbox probably just had a hard time with the new engine. They get stuck easily. Depends how well it's lined up with the flywheel, type of batteries and how well they are charged up. If the car isn't lined up properly on the starterbox even a well used engine may be hard to roll over on a box.
The full throttle break-in I did was written in an article about Adam Drake in the november extreme r/c magazine. I wouldn't recommend it to someone new to nitros. Just goes along with there's so many different ways to do breakin, that's just one of them. And probably not used very much either. Some say it's hard on the rod bushings, guess I'll find out. I've done about every other method and figured I'd finally try this one.
Best way to line up the starterbox is with the engine out of the vehicle then set your alignment pegs with the starterwheel bottomed into the flywheel cutout.
The full throttle break-in I did was written in an article about Adam Drake in the november extreme r/c magazine. I wouldn't recommend it to someone new to nitros. Just goes along with there's so many different ways to do breakin, that's just one of them. And probably not used very much either. Some say it's hard on the rod bushings, guess I'll find out. I've done about every other method and figured I'd finally try this one.
Best way to line up the starterbox is with the engine out of the vehicle then set your alignment pegs with the starterwheel bottomed into the flywheel cutout.
hmm, maybe its my battery, ill let it charge overnight even though that doesnt seem to be the problem.
i think my problem is that my flywheel is about 1/2 inch above the slot for it... the starter box wheel cant reach that high, how can i fix this?
do i need to use any oils on this engine while breaking it in? or after breaking it in? i drive it everyday.
and what kind of tuning do you normally during/after tuning. im in canada, and its anywhere from -10 to 20 degrees farenheight here, does that change anything? i know the engines factory tune isint perfect, but is that factory tune usually too lean or too rich?
11-17-2007, 10:06 PM
#12
hmm, maybe its my battery, ill let it charge overnight even though that doesnt seem to be the problem.
i think my problem is that my flywheel is about 1/2 inch above the slot for it... the starter box wheel cant reach that high, how can i fix this?
do i need to use any oils on this engine while breaking it in? or after breaking it in? i drive it everyday.
and what kind of tuning do you normally during/after tuning. im in canada, and its anywhere from -10 to 20 degrees farenheight here, does that change anything? i know the engines factory tune isint perfect, but is that factory tune usually too lean or too rich?
i think my problem is that my flywheel is about 1/2 inch above the slot for it... the starter box wheel cant reach that high, how can i fix this?
do i need to use any oils on this engine while breaking it in? or after breaking it in? i drive it everyday.
and what kind of tuning do you normally during/after tuning. im in canada, and its anywhere from -10 to 20 degrees farenheight here, does that change anything? i know the engines factory tune isint perfect, but is that factory tune usually too lean or too rich?
11-17-2007, 10:08 PM
#13
well what do you recommend, my running conditions are extreme cold/wind, i am keeping the engine in my house so it stays warm, and im also going to heat it with a hairdryer before i start it.
of yeah, very very important question.. how do i find BDC.
of yeah, very very important question.. how do i find BDC.
11-17-2007, 10:17 PM
#14
how i find BDC is i use a small thin idem to place in the glow plug hole, and turn the flywheel until the idem stoppes going down wards, and then you have found BDC...also sportworks makes a tool to spin into the glow plug hole that will hold the piston at BDC...
11-17-2007, 10:25 PM
#15
i would run a hot plug in cold conditions...
how i find BDC is i use a small thin idem to place in the glow plug hole, and turn the flywheel until the idem stoppes going down wards, and then you have found BDC...also sportworks makes a tool to spin into the glow plug hole that will hold the piston at BDC...
how i find BDC is i use a small thin idem to place in the glow plug hole, and turn the flywheel until the idem stoppes going down wards, and then you have found BDC...also sportworks makes a tool to spin into the glow plug hole that will hold the piston at BDC...
edit: i see you said "glow plug hole"... did you mean the air filter hole. to me, the glow plug hole is the one on top where you stick the glow plug in :s