straightaway

iTrader: (52)

Hi,

I am getting a losi 8 kit (not RTR). What parts should I stock up and which hop up (functional not for bling) should I get. Thanks

sickboy

iTrader: (75)

3-3 rear toe-plate for options. nothing breaks on the car except the occassional hinge-pin cover. get clutch bearings too. get the 10 for $10 TKO packs. not because the wear out, but because the Losi bearings are $7.00 a pair.

Omnicron

iTrader: (3)

I just got both the losi's and got the King Headz motor mount and radio brace. You will need the motor mount if you plan on using any clutch besides the losi one. I heard the frong and rear bearing carriers go out so the losi alum ones are the way to go. Also you should get the alum servo saver I hear. For spares all I have seen break for the guys that ran Losi's all year was shock shafts and hinge pins.

sport10

To clarify a little better it is the rear and sometimes center bearing holders that go wear out. There are aluminum versions of these available from losi which is a good functional hopup. The other stuff is just bling. This is a very durable buggy which hardly ever breaks but some parts do wear out. The front to center CV shaft wears out every couple of gallons and has to be replaced. Also, go ahead and get the GMK CVD Condoms for this buggy and use them. It will save you the headache of the cv pins coming out. Make sure the clutch has the blue aluminum shoes too.

straightaway

iTrader: (52)

Thanks, can you give me the part number?

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

Typically per race day I go through 1-2 diff cases, even though the gears are shimmed correctly. The cross-pin slots wallow out pretty easily. I replace my clutch bearings every race if I am at a large club track, but usually at my local track will just change clutch bearings for the main. Check your shoes quite often. The front center CVD wears faster than the rest of the CVDs. I am anal however, as I carry almost every part of my vehicle in my pit bag, usually multiples of each.

air8

iTrader: (7)

Here's my bulletproof list.

Alum. Front inner hinge pin cover.
Captured steering rod ends
Alum. Servo Saver Top
Alum. Steering servo horn
Alum. Front center diff insert
King Headz QC engine mount (Worth it for maintenance)
Alum. rear diff bearing inserts.
Foam/Lexan in the bottom of the battery box

Both my buggy and truggy are setup this way. After all this I can't complain about anything breaking. Wear and tear is another issue though.

kevinmajor

iTrader: (3)

I bought my buggy in July and have almost 1.5 gallons through it. The CVD condoms are a must. I am running the plastic chasis braces and the plastic bearing inserts with no problems.

The only broken part-- rear hinge pin cover (I got punted from behind entering a turn at mach speed)

My suggestion-- screw kit, cvd condoms, shock boots, clutch shoes and springs, clutch bearings.

Make sure you you locktite all metal to metal and oval out the rear hole on the body because the chasis has flex.

satoch

Everything they said plus the 8T servo saver. Also the M2C inner hinge pins and outer hinge pins-the stock ones bend too easily and bind your suspension.

DOMIT

iTrader: (1)

Here's what I would keep in the box: Extra control arms, a few of EACH TYPE of bearing (Losi's use a lot of different ones unlike most buggies) and maybe some hinge pins. Shock parts- guides and o-rings, maybe a spare set of shafts, and ends.

I have the upgraded hing pin holder on the rear with 3 camber 4 antisquat. The inserts for that are a must to keep in your box if you are running that setup.

Keep some diff cases, at least 1 for sure. The angle of the front center cvd causes the center diff case to wear more than normal. Keep a front center cvd with you... they wear out pretty rapidly. (Actually the pin that goes into the outdrive- you can keep just a shaft and "rebuild" the cvd)

Possibly a front top plate, I've seen those crack before, and they are cheap. Of course you can get the aluminum one (heavier and more expensive) but why?

I have the aluminum bearing holders in mine... they don't wear like the plastic ones do.

Maybe an extra pinion gear or 2.

air8

iTrader: (7)

What makes you want' to keep extra arms? I've never seen an arm break or wear out yet, but I've only been racing for 1.5 years. Did you just replace the worn out pieces or did you actually have one break? If it did break please let us know how that happened.

DOMIT

iTrader: (1)

I haven't broken one on the Losi YET... but I've managed to break them on my other 2 cars... so I assume it's a good idea to keep them around. Of course we have things to hit like a steel starting gate halfway down the straight, etc.

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

Actually the arms become bowed over time, and it is best to replace them then. Usually you will find that you are replacing worn parts, not broken parts.

ldawg

iTrader: (14)

I have a set of front and rear adjustable hing pin braces for sale with an extra pack of inserts... also have the aluminum front spindle carriers, bearing inserts, servo saver top, and +1mm wheel hexes. everything has 1 race on it. PM me if interested.

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

Actually what causes the extra wear on the center diff is not the angle of the CVD, but the fact that thats where most of the power/torque is hitting. Also, I have yet to see a vehicle use a CVD driveshaft...they are all cardan joints or universal joints. Its just mislabeled as a CVD. There is nothing "constant" about them, they speed up and slow down (vibrate) the greater the joint angle is.